Would these shocks be good?

[bucket]

Where so I start?

Upload pics of the springs?

Post model info about the shocks that I currently have?

Some pictures of the leaf springs, bushings and the shackles might give some kind an indicator. Or not. But it's a good place to start.

 

[Edelbrock]

Pics

 

[Edelbrock]

Pics 2

 

[Frankenchevy]

A K5 can ride much more decent without spending that kind of money though.

The difference between Tuff County or BDS and others like Rough Country, Pro Comp or old Rancho is night and day.

It's also all in what you're used to and what is expected. For all we know, the rig in question could already have high dollar custom springs on it, but it's "stiff" because it doesn't ride like a new Escalade. Or it could be on old 2.5" Rancho springs with an add-a-leaf and most any off the shelf leaf spring would be an improvement.

I thought read rough country, but you are 100% correct—it is possible @Edelbrock may be happy with a cheaper option.

 

[Edelbrock]

So based on what my shocks are currently, what should I do? New shocks?

 

[bucket]

Pics

Pics 2

Ouch. I'll bet that sure is one rough ridin sumbitch. The rear may be a lot of it too. I see a leaf added in, plus it looks like the lower "overload" leaf has been heated with a torch and bent to contact the rear of the spring at all times.

The front springs I'm not so familiar with anymore. I don't recall which of the common brands used those leaf ends and those leaf wraps. I'm thinking Pro Comp, but not positive. No matter what, they look like thick and stiff springs. The rear bushings are shot too.

 

[Grit dog]

My scientific analysis (pics tell so much) is the rear springs are some sacked out original springs shored up by that bent ass overloaded leaf. = very rough.
The fronts as evidenced by the worlds cheapest rough country shocks (same as the clapped out rc shocks that came on the 86) are likely RC springs also very rough.
I had an old K5 back in the day (10 years old was old in the salt belt. It was Swiss cheese by its 10th bday!) The front “lift” was the same as your rear springs. Someone clamped a short overload in under the oe leafs and it produced a 3-4” “lift”.
Those springs didn’t move! Like rocks. I did put a plow on the front and the only part of the front springs that flexed under the weight was the last little bit on each end. Worked for most of the winter until it just broke a spring on one side.
Honestly, your only real bet for a decent ride is new springs all around or at least some decent front springs and some good half ton rear leafs and the lift block.
That rear 4” block and the homemade overload leaf are giving it 5-6” of lift I’d guess. Gotta think of the height of the new springs shored pack and block to guesstimate what you’ll have after replacing the rear springs with _____.
And yes I believe it rides rougher than corn cob butt wipe! At least my K20 has good original rear springs and the RC front springs are a bit more compliant with the transplanted big block under the hood.

 

[Edelbrock]

I believe it rides rougher than corn cob butt wipe!

Interestingly enough - before they invented toilet paper early North American settlers used corn cobs.
In ancient Rome, a sponge attached to a wooden stick was used instead of toilet paper.


Anyway - I put a HUGE heavy cattle guard on the front, which replaces the front bumper. Its heavy enough that I had to use a cherry picker to lift it up while bolting it on. Two people can carry the cattle guard, but its not easy. I would say its 250 lbs give or take. That did improve the front suspension in some ways. Smaller bumps are not felt as much. The front end sits maybe an inch or so lower than it did before. It does seem to cause the front end suspension to flex more.

So I need shocks, is that the deal?

I'm on a budget of around $200. What can be done with that? Anyone got any links to good deals? Amazon?

 

[Ricko1966]

Interestingly enough - before they invented toilet paper early North American settlers used corn cobs.
In ancient Rome, a sponge attached to a wooden stick was used instead of toilet paper.


Anyway - I put a HUGE heavy cattle guard on the front, which replaces the front bumper. Its heavy enough that I had to use a cherry picker to lift it up while bolting it on. Two people can carry the cattle guard, but its not easy. I would say its 250 lbs give or take. That did improve the front suspension in some ways. Smaller bumps are not felt as much. The front end sits maybe an inch or so lower than it did before. It does seem to cause the front end suspension to flex more.

So I need shocks, is that the deal?

I'm on a budget of around $200. What can be done with that? Anyone got any links to good deals? Amazon?

No,your spring rate is wrong, shocks control dampening and rebound. If the suspension is not compressing,and the shock aren't seized,and the suspension doesn't keep moving up and down after you hit bumps or bounce the front end,the problem is spring rate.

 

[Grit dog]

No,your spring rate is wrong, shocks control dampening and rebound. If the suspension is not compressing,and the shock aren't seized,and the suspension doesn't keep moving up and down after you hit bumps or bounce the front end,the problem is spring rate.

It’s sometimes very difficult to get folks to understand that shocks (not struts or coil over or air shocks) do not support any load. Well the few lbs it takes to compress them, but no measurable load.
I’d expect the OPs truck to be smoother with a couple two three hundred lbs hanging off the bumper.
Of course that just makes the rear even worse since it’s now lighter than before.
But to your point. If it ain’t bouncing the shocks are doing shock things. And fine tuning the ride with shocks seems to be a long ways away from having any measurable effect on that suspension.

 

[CalSgt]

No,your spring rate is wrong, shocks control dampening and rebound. If the suspension is not compressing,and the shock aren't seized,and the suspension doesn't keep moving up and down after you hit bumps or bounce the front end,the problem is spring rate.

Another vote for no...

Save that $200 to put towards better springs or for use on a rainy day.

 

[Edelbrock]

So if I were to modify the springs, would that help? Cut some of them?

 

[Edelbrock]

It’s sometimes very difficult to get folks to understand that shocks (not struts or coil over or air shocks) do not support any load.

An equivalent to a shock would be a steering damper. Same thing, different orientation.

 

[Old Guy Bill]

Do you have a local spring/suspension shop?
Drag those beat up springs down there and have them work or replace them as needed.
Get those right before addressing shocks…

 

[Edelbrock]

Do you have a local spring/suspension shop?
Drag those beat up springs down there and have them work or replace them as needed.
Get those right before addressing shocks…

Based on all the comments, I tend to agree. The springs are incorrect. When driving, it feels like they do not flex at all. I would really like to modify them to make them work better, but I'm not sure if that can be done.