Will these headers work with a 4x4 Square?

[Christian Nelson]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/T304-STAINL...Parts_Accessories&hash=item565cca2498&vxp=mtr

Not a bad price for Stainless headers. My concern was though, that they come down the middle, and might run into engine mounts, etc..

I did long tube headers on a couple of my old trucks back in the day, and really liked how they performed, but they rusted, and stuff. I just got a 1984 K10 that isn't too badly rusted, but the exhaust is shot front to back.

Wanna put dual stainless all the way back, maybe even straight pipes. 2.25" should be good on a 350, right?

It's got an edelbrock carb on it, don't remember if it's got a dual plane intake.

700R4 tranny. I put the plow on it, but I think I am going to have to add a leaf the front, since it nose dives pretty bad when you lift the plow. I'll be posting pics of it soon!

 

[bucket]

I don't think those are really any better than exhaust manifolds, especially if you use the ram's horn type of manifold.

 

[Christian Nelson]

I don't think those are really any better than exhaust manifolds, especially if you use the ram's horn type of manifold.

But, they won't rust all to crap, and are cheaper than ram's horns. I wonder if I can find some long tube ones..

 

[Christian Nelson]

Here's my new to me truck. 1984 k10

 

[Christian Nelson]

Here's some long tube headers, but twice as expensive.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-CHEVY-V...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e721b027&vxp=mtr

 

[77 K20]

But, they won't rust all to crap, and are cheaper than ram's horns. I wonder if I can find some long tube ones..

And I have to wonder why stainless steel is less than cast iron ram horn manifolds. For that low of a price I'd be very suspicious....

I have 2.5" ram horn manifolds on my truck and the driver's side motor mount had to be modified due to clearance issues.

 

[Christian Nelson]

And I have to wonder why stainless steel is less than cast iron ram horn manifolds. For that low of a price I'd be very suspicious....

I have 2.5" ram horn manifolds on my truck and the driver's side motor mount had to be modified due to clearance issues.

Well, Ram horns are collectors items, aren't made anymore, and even if they were, they are cast, an expensive process requiring a foundry.

Stainless steel tubing is getting cheaper, and easier to get these days than it ever was. The equipment to weld and bend, and fabricate stainless tubing is also cheaper than it ever was, and this is why.

It has become cheap enough that I am considering getting the whole system stainless, from the block all the way til it exit's the back end. Even 10 years ago, the cost was prohibitive to the point of not worth it.

Your point that you had to modify a motor mount is very helpful, I can see it is doable though, with that mod. I also looked up the ram honr manifolds for trucks, and they angle back at their exit, instead of straight down.

But yeah, you go to ebay, and most of the manifolds you can get there are going to end up more than these stainless headers.

304 will probably not stay shiny, but it won't rust through like mild steel would.

 

[rich weyand]

Those shorties won't give you anywhere near the performance improvement of long-tube headers like the Hooker 2453.

Headers take a very long time to rust out, because they get so hot and burn off all the water. The speed of rust-through in exhaust systems is slowest at the front, and quickest at the back, for that reason. A set of new headers should outlast 4 sets of mufflers and tailpipes.

Figure headers once, exhaust pipes twice, mufflers and tailpipes four times over 20-30 years depending on climate, frequency of driving, and length of trips. Short trips where the exhaust system does not get hot enough to burn out the water are hardest.

 

[MadOgre]

Not if you live in Canada east of the Rockies!

 

[texnet]

Well, Ram horns are collectors items, aren't made anymore, and even if they were, they are cast, an expensive process requiring a foundry.

You can still purchase NEW Ram Horns....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-674-504/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-674-503/overview/

 

[Christian Nelson]

You can still purchase NEW Ram Horns.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-674-504/overview/

Yes, and they cost the same, if you get a set ($55 each, sold individually) as the set of shorty headers in stainless.

Can anyone tell me these headers will be WORSE than ramhorns?

They look like the exhaust takes a smoother path than the ramhorns..

The pipes are more near the same length before they hit the collector than ram horns are..

I guess I am not understanding the instant dislike of these headers..

I am looking at fitment issues. I've had one answer that even discussed that, and he eve included a picture.

I understand that short headers are not as good as long tubes, I also understand that ramhorns are a nice cast manifold, I also understand these are pretty cheap and might be a reason for that.

I also understand that the global market is making things like stainless tubing and headers MUCH cheaper to make than ever before.

 

[77 K20]

I just bought ONE stainless steel downpipe for my VW TDI and it was $280 by itself. All stainless exhaust I've ever seen seems to cost a lot more.... so that was why I was amazed at the cost.

The truck ram horn manifolds that angle back were 2" when I was looking for them. I bought the center dump ones instead as they were 2.5".

I looked around a lot online and I came to the conclusion that the ram horns were good enough for me. Long tube headers do make more HP but it was at high RPM. My old 400 and my new 383 will not see that.

He was a dyno chart from a 383 in a Chevelle. That compared on a dyno ram horn vs full tube headers.

You must be registered for see images attach

Then since I go thru mud and they use de-icer here everyone at work said cheap headers rust out too fast. The mud/dirt soaks in de-icer and eats them year round. So after looking at stainless headers ($600 thru summit racing) and ceramic coated ones I decided that the ram horn ones were cheap enough, should last a very long time, and got fairly close to the same performance.

Those shorty headers you found might work out well... I don't know. Some of the cheaper headers are known for warping then leaking at the block. The heavy cast iron manifolds haven't leaked at all and I've pulled them off twice. Once to put on a new set of heads, then pulled them off again to put on the new engine.

 

[77 K20]

On a relatively stock engine I would say either would be equal. There is a whole science to long tube headers- and with those you can then "custom tune" them to your engine and what RPM they are matched at. I never got into that.

And with either the ram horn or the shorty headers will give you great access to your starter and fuel pump.

 

[highdesertrange]

I just don't see any quality with a set of headers for under 100 bucks. I was lucky enough to get doug thorleys before they went belly up. highdesertranger

 

[Christian Nelson]

Thank you, 77 K20. Good info there. I agree the ram horns are good manifolds.

I never made any claim of these shorties being bolt on 20 hp, or anything. I was simply asking if they looked like they'd hit something, and you so far are the only one who actually answered my question.

ALL headers warp, it's the nature of the thickness of the metal you are dealing with, and why you have to pay very much attention to what type of gasket you use, and the torque of your header bolts. This isn't the first time I've used headers. And, yes, I had several sets of headers rust through within a couple of years up here where they salt the crap out of the roads every time a flurry drops. I was looking at these stainless headers, and thought to myself that they are as cheap as a set of Ram's horns, and I might be willing to experiment with them for that price, if I can justify it financially. However, if they simply weren't going to be able to be made to fit, because of some interference, it would be a deal breaker.

I also looked into buying 4 foot lengths of stainless tubing, in 2.5, and 2.25 ID sizes. Looks like I should be able to do the whole system without mufflers for under $300.

I am thinking the reason for your VW part being so spendy, is it isn't just a hunk of straight tubing, it's a special made part for a VW, which from what I can tell, EVERY Part for them is marked up like twice more than most other makes parts..

I will let ye'all know how this works out, if I get the $$ together to do this.. Probably won't be til sometime in spring.

Thanks again!