What to do...

[86 SCOTTSDALE]

That’s exactly what they told me. They said it could’ve cooled down by the next morning. If it’s heating up wouldn’t that be an issue with the distributor? Because I did some digging about it and it looks like some people have replaced theirs with the same issue and it keeps failing and heating up like that.

Dielectric greace must be spread on bottom of module to dissipate heat.

 

[thecantaloupeman]

Really...? Ignition module is 330! Damn I thought they were like $30... wtf?

I've never heard of them failing and then coming back online.

Well for them to change it out yeah. I found one for like 30$ but its for labor. Their hourly rate is 120$ but i'm thinking I might need to start using them instead of the cheaper place I use to go to.

 

[shiftpro]

Well for them to change it out yeah. I found one for like 30$ but its for labor. Their hourly rate is 120$ but i'm thinking I might need to start using them instead of the cheaper place I use to go to.

Hold on second... I'm thinking if they want kind of $ for a 15 minute job... bro you need another shop, and opinion.

 

[thecantaloupeman]

Hold on second... I'm thinking if they want kind of $ for a 15 minute job... bro you need another shop, and opinion.

You may be right. I only tried them because someone recommended them to me for carb work a while ago. They seem to specialize in older cars so I gave it a shot. It was 120$ for them to diagnose it and they have been testing on it for a few weeks now at no extra charge. Maybe I misunderstood them, but I may call around and see what other shops rates are for that job.


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[RoryH19]

You can you tube how to change the module, it is straight forward.
Under the cap, couple of screws and plugs.
Also places like Autozone will test them for free.

As @Arkansas_V8 mentioned you can replace the entire distributor from Autozone.
It will give you a new module, cap rotor, etc. May have to buy the coil. Have to check on you specific one. $150 or less. I did this for my R10.

 

[RecklessWOT]

That shop is raping you. That module is such an easy thing to change, you can do it in a few minutes, even if you don't have a ton of experience working on cars. It's very straightforward

 

[legopnuematic]

My 0.02, I pulled my 76 into a QT and grabbed a drink, came back out and wouldn't start, the OG module call it quits then and there. Had my dad get me a new module and brought it to me along with my basic craftsman set and changed it in the summer heat, infront of QT, in 15 minutes and fired right up. Never had any issues like that after, until the mechanical advance and magnetic pickup started giving me trouble, then I swapped it out for the one I had bought for my 79.

 

[SquareRoot]

Replace the module. Use YouTube and a Phillips screwdriver. Change the fuel pump. Use YouTube and a 7/16 wrench. Change the fuel filter. Use YouTube and a flat blade screwdriver. Take the $150 you saved and go buy the biggest tool set you can get.

Consider it an investment.

 

[legopnuematic]

Replace the module. Use YouTube and a Phillips screwdriver. Change the fuel pump. Use YouTube and a 7/16 wrench. Change the fuel filter. Use YouTube and a flat blade screwdriver. Take the $150 you saved and go buy the biggest tool set you can get.

Consider it an investment.

Agreed.

Although for a Qjet a 5/8 flare wrench and a 1 inch open wrench are needed for the filter in the stock location

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[SquareRoot]

Btw.. I keep a new HEI module in my glovebox. I hope it doesn't have a shelf life as it's been in there for well over 10 years. Until I recently added Dakota guages and fan controller, it was the only electronic gadget on the beast! However, both of those can fail and it won't be a show stopper.

 

[78C10BigTen]

Agreed.

Although for a Qjet a 5/8 flare wrench and a 1 inch open wrench are needed for the filter in the stock location

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Very smart man!

 

[80BrownK10]

Really...? Ignition module is 330! Damn I thought they were like $30... wtf?

I've never heard of them failing and then coming back online.

I'm thinking the same thing. I didn't think there were many parts for these truck that cost that kind of dough.

My advice was going to be do a full time up. Plugs, wires , cap rotor, ignition module and coil just to get a good baseline for a healthy ignition. I would think it all could be had for less than say $150 from Rock Auto. And be done in less than a few hours.

 

[80BrownK10]

Does it have an electric choke? Almost sounds like maybe the power and/or ground wires to the choke came unplugged or have a bad connection somewhere. This might explain why it's fine sometimes, but not others, since the ambient temperature and temperature of the truck would effect it.

Have they checked the carb?

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He died at a light. I don't think the choke would be the issue. Die at idle maybe but it should start back

 

[MisterB]

He died at a light. I don't think the choke would be the issue. Die at idle maybe but it should start back

Well, depends. Maybe the choke stayed open when starting it and he sat there with his foot on the gas to help it warm up and then he drove off and it kept running, until he came to a stop at the light. I had this very issue, and it was due to the power wire to the choke getting too hot from the valve cover and coming apart.

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[80BrownK10]

Ignition module may be heating up.

My old Suburban and G20 did the same stuff when the ignition module would get hot.

Suburban did it under load, and the G20 was more erratic.

Common for electrical ignition parts in anything with an engine. Be it chainsaw, boat or vehicle.