What’s the best way to fix/clean up this wiring problem?

[Cj1234]

This is a sloppy wiring job I know but this is how I bought the truck (1978 Chevy C10). What’s the best way to fix/clean this up without having a million wires going to both terminals? After sitting for 2 weeks it seems to pull and drain power from the battery causing it to die often. I’m assuming it’s the absolute mess on my terminals so, how should I go about this!

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[nvrenuf]

What are all the extra wires for?

If those are all accessories (aka not bypassed factory circuits) then I’d add a secondary fuse/relay panel and pull the power for those accessories from there.

Blue Sea Systems makes a wide range of well made products including fuse/relay panels.

I’d get ride of the boat terminals and go to a military type lug which has a double ended stud on the cable end that’s good for multiple cable eyelets (engine + winch cables, etc). Also, repair or replace the sloppy eyelets on the cables. It really looks like all of the wire and cable ends need to be cleaned up and replaced properly.

 

[Chevy 88]

Looks pretty clean to me. Are you sure that's not how it came from the factory? ha.. ha... ha...

So what ya got here is a wiring job that was done by someone that doesn't know how to wire things properly, but is also really excited about wiring in new stuff. Lots of aftermarket stuff I would assume. Radar detectors, stereos, lighting etc.

As for how to fix it?

Need lots more info. Where do all these wires go?

 

[84-C20]

Well your going to get some opinions here for sure. Personally I don't mind the marine style battery terminals, though I prefer to get rid of the wing nut and use a regular nut when I've used them thought technically there are better choices.

We really do need to have some idea what all those bloody wires go to and with the negative terminal why are there so many wires on that vs run to a ground closer to whatever they are grounding. An aftermarket power distribution box might be the ticket for all the stuff on the positive, but if you don't know what they all go to you should probably find out. Make there there are fuses where fuses are needed ect.

I'm just throwing out my 2 cents, but it would be good to know what they all do, as all that spaghettis is not factory.

 

[75gmck25]

First figure out what all those wires are going to, so you understand what you have. Also, is this an auxiliary battery? Those large battery cables look pretty wimpy for a squarebody stock cable.

The instructions for many aftermarket accessories state that you must make the power connections directly to the battery. However, you can see why its not that simple.

It would be easy to add positive and negative junction points very close to the battery, and connect them to the battery with large gauge wire (maybe 6 or 8 gauge) so there would be no voltage drop. Then connect all those extra power and ground wires to the junction. If you use one of the marine- rated power junctions with fuses it would be waterproof and protected from shorts.

This one is expensive because it’s from a big vendor, but Amazon has many other brands and sizes. https://www.westmarine.com/blue-sea...e_demandware_net__WestMarine__products__en_US

 

[Matt69olds]

Go to your nearest salvage yard, get a junction block from a newer truck. Run ONE large power cable from the battery to the junction block. Make sure to protect it with a fusible link or fuse with a high enough rating. Then run all your accessories to the junction block, again use fuses to protect each circuit.

For the ground side, you can get negative junction blocks color coded in black, or if you can find a convenient location that’s study enough, use a single 3/8 bolt as a ground connection. Obviously, throughly clean the metal around the bolt, use some toothed washers to ensure to good connection.

 

[83Stepper]

Like everybody else has mentioned, figure out what goes where and what's it supplying power to in the first place.

Secondly, after you've determined what's getting power, figure out what is priority over everything else.

Now that you've done all the hard work, does the item(s) getting constant 12v really need to be there. Move the things that don't need constant 12v. If they all need constant 12v, get an automotive amplifier fuse block and route them to that and then just one larger lead going to the battery. Personally I've always liked the ANL type fuse holders, but go with one that you'll want to look at and get something that's rated for what you're going to be pulling juice through. Too little and you'll end up underpowering the components, too much and you can smoke the wiring.

 

[RattleSnack]

^^^^ I agree with everyone's comments. That is one hot mess which would drive me bonkers until I corrected everything. But I fear this is just the tip of the iceberg. You really need to see where those wires are going...you might just find out that some, if not all, are even needed!

 

[Chevy 88]

I found the problem for ya!

That red wire is excessive. It can removed. The red wire next to the yellow wire...

 

[K5 Blazer]

I would using a Blue Seas SafetyHub. Chase down each wire and try to determine the amperage draw and install the appropriate fuse. This is what I use on my Blazer for all accessories.

Amazon.com

 

[peats]

Cleaning up that mess of wires is not going to solve your drain issue.

 

[WP29P4A]

Tackle it ONE wire at a time, so it's not overwhelming. Like the guy above said probably not going to fix the power drain, but still worth fixing to reduce later problems.

I have used these on 3 different vehicles and rate them highly. They come in different configurations with different types of connections. I would have gone with the version that takes the wires directly with a set screw to secure them. The more connections you can eliminate the better.

I spent a lot of time debating this with clients.(Been an A/V contractor for 48 years) They wanted pretty wall plates with all the speaker connectors in nice neat rows, because to them it looked professional. Then I would ask them if they thought cutting their garden hose in to several pieces and then splicing it back together with high quality connectors would make it work or look better. Same thing with wires, it's never a good idea to add more connections than necessary to ANYTHING.

The correct size crimp-on connectors with a real crimp tool is essential to reducing your electrical problem instead of making them worse. Whoever did your larger connectors just squashed them instead of crimping them, which usually creates resistance and heat, instead of a good solid connection that lasts.

Also it looks like your ground from battery to radiator support is under sized, especially if you have a stereo/sub amp.

 

[WP29P4A]

You only have 13 wires to sort out, it could be a lot worse.

 

[jwroblesk]

I’ve seen it done where the secondary wire goes to a power block mounted on the fender well and all the wires hook to the power block. I’ve seen the power blocks with up to 10 spotsto hook wires. I was really impressed with how neat the whole thing was. Joe

 

[Broken85]

I don’t know what these circuits are each drawing but if it is less than 30amps, I would recommend this Amazon special. I installed it 6 months ago and no issues. 5 hot circuits, and 6 switched circuits. Connect a hot to the battery and a hot to a switched ignition relay from the fuse box. Power draw issues solved.

Amazon.com

I also ran this negative bus bar from the negative terminal too for each connection because everyone knows, when it comes to wiring, it’s always your ground and body grounds are for losers. I mounted it right next to the fuse box because if you are running wire to an accessory why not make it a double strand (1 red, 1 black).

1/4" Stud & 12 x #8 Terminal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09T6NBTD5/

Solder and shrink wrap everything. Crimp connectors are a last resort. If you only want to wire things one time and not make the future you bang is head into a wall, take that advice!