vibration question

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mtnmankev

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I have been trying to track down a vibration in my 84 K10, and I think it will end up being the shocks way past worn out. Thanks for posting that idea.
I have never changed them, they were on the truck when I bought it 8 years ago. Looking at them, all six have been leaking for a long, long time.
The vibration I have is erratic, it comes in and goes out, and only at highway speeds 55+.
 

chengny

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From a GMC TSB - good reading:

Drivetrain - Evaluating Driveline Vibration



Number: 89-199-4A
Section: 4A
Date: June 1989
Subject: EVALUATING DRIVELINE VIBRATION

Model and Year: 1980-89 LIGHT DUTY TRUCKS
TO: ALL CHEVROLET DEALERS


The purpose of this bulletin is to provide a logical approach to evaluating vehicles for driveline generated vibrations and imbalance occurring between 50-62 mph. The following diagnosis tree is designed to be used as a guide, and when utilized properly can help isolate and identify causes of driveline disturbances.

Procedure:

Prior to road test, determine if disturbance is engine related by following the procedure below:

1. With engine at operating temperature and vehicle parked, set parking brake and place transmission shift lever in neutral.
2. Slowly accelerate engine from idle to 4000 RPM (diesels 3200 RPM), noting RPM at which vibration is felt (if any).
3. If vibration is felt, disregard use of this bulletin and isolate and repair responsible engine component (transmission, clutch/flywheel, torque converter, engine accessory, etc.).

Road test vehicle on a smooth level road to verify customer comment. It is usually beneficial to road test the vehicle with the customer present. Note the speeds and conditions at which the disturbance is most noticeable. Refer to Remark A in this bulletin for diagnosis information.

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To Use Diagnosis Tree:

Locate symptom on the diagnosis tree which best describes the disturbance. Follow arrows and perform the required check or service action. Never bypass or skip an inspection or assume that a component is OK. All steps must be performed as called out.
Definition of Terms:

"Boom" - Continuous bass drum roll sound caused by body cavity resonance
excited by drivetrain. Sometimes felt as pressure in ears.
"Buffeting" - High pressure pulsation.
"Droning" - A low heavy reverberating often muffled sound. Sounds like a bowling
ball rolling down alley.
"Drumming" - A drum roll similar to "Boom."
"Howling" - A mid-range continuous sound usually associated with driveline gear
noise.


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Procedure

1. Measure runout of companion flange, as described in Figure 2. Indicate high point with a mark.

2. Remove companion flange as described in Section 4B of the Service Manual.
3. Measure runout of pinion stem at radius between nut thread and spline. Mark low point.

4. Reinstall pinion companion flange with marks aligned. Tighten pinion nut to specification torque. Refer to Section 4B of the Service Manual.
5. Remeasure companion flange runout. If excessive runout still exists, do Step 6.
6. Additional reindexing of the companion flange to the pinion stem splines by one or two teeth may further reduce runout


Remarks

A. Verify concern. Drive on smooth road up to 65 mph as speed limits permit. Note speeds and severity of disturbance. Assure that disturbance is not engine or transmission related. Refer to Section OC "Vibration Diagnosis Chart" in the 1989 Service Manual. If disturbance is determined to be engine/transmission related, disregard use of this bulletin.
B. Disturbance may peak within this speed range.
C. Visually check components for damage, looseness, missing balance weights, etc.
D. This may compensate for companion flange runout
E. Excessive companion flange runout may occur as high prop runout. Replace companion flange as required, see Figure 2.

F. IMPORTANT: If runout is reduced to below 0.005-inch and the flange possesses a compensation weight, this part is out of spec. See Figure 2.
G. Ensure the companion flange runout is still well within specifications.
H. If this point has been crossed several times, it is recommended that the Technical Assistance Center be contacted.
 

hinkv10

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So I finally got my driveshafts back. Only took 6 days. Shop I used wasn't any cheaper than the one from my old home town but they were closer. I ended up getting a new front driveshaft. Didn't want to spend $270 but its done and hopefully it lasts another 30 years. I could tell it was shot and about to let loose as I could take it in my hand and feel the play with it installed. I guess I could have just driven with out the front driveshaft but now I don't have to worry about it anymore.

Whole experience at Napa was a disaster. Long story short; I let them install the ujoints in the rear driveshaft as well because he said he could rebuild the front and rear for $75 in labor and have it done on Friday, last friday. Never called and he didn't look at it till Monday at 430. I ended up having to buy a new front driveshaft which was fine but he didn't install the rear drive ujoints till thursday morning. Kept on procrastinating and saying I'll do it on wednesday when the shaft shows up. I show up at noon and he installed the wrong one in the rear of it. Regular size instead of the conversion joint we picked out 6 days earlier. I had to wait 45 minutes while he swapped it out.

Before this turns into a total biotch thread, I finally got to drive it a couple miles today and she drives great. No clunk when you put it into gear and the front shaft feels rock solid. I only went on the highway for 1 mile but I didn't feel the vibration that I did the last time I drove it which is good because I have to pick up a rear end for my Dart on Monday 90 miles away.

The new front shaft is beefier than the old one. Its a pain to tighten the 4 bolts that hold it to the transfer case so I'm going to tighten those again. Old ones only came off with the impact gun but I can only get a ratchet in there one at a time and rotate or a swivel socket which I don't have in 1/2.

Its good to hear the 3 inch flow masters come to life
 
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MadOgre

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So I finally got my driveshafts back. Only took 6 days. Shop I used wasn't any cheaper than the one from my old home town but they were closer. I ended up getting a new front driveshaft. Didn't want to spend $270 but its done and hopefully it lasts another 30 years. I could tell it was shot and about to let loose as I could take it in my hand and feel the play with it installed. I guess I could have just driven with out the front driveshaft but now I don't have to worry about it anymore.

Whole experience at Napa was a disaster. Long story short; I let them install the ujoints in the rear driveshaft as well because he said he could rebuild the front and rear for $75 in labor and have it done on Friday, last friday. Never called and he didn't look at it till Monday at 430. I ended up having to buy a new front driveshaft which was fine but he didn't install the rear drive ujoints till thursday morning. Kept on procrastinating and saying I'll do it on wednesday when the shaft shows up. I show up at noon and he installed the wrong one in the rear of it. Regular size instead of the conversion joint we picked out 6 days earlier. I had to wait 45 minutes while he swapped it out.

Before this turns into a total biotch thread, I finally got to drive it a couple miles today and she drives great. No clunk when you put it into gear and the front shaft feels rock solid. I only went on the highway for 1 mile but I didn't feel the vibration that I did the last time I drove it which is good because I have to pick up a rear end for my Dart on Monday 90 miles away.

The new front shaft is beefier than the old one. Its a pain to tighten the 4 bolts that hold it to the transfer case so I'm going to tighten those again. Old ones only came off with the impact gun but I can only get a ratchet in there one at a time and rotate or a swivel socket which I don't have in 1/2.

Its good to hear the 3 inch flow masters come to life

Make sure you cinch those flange bolts down tight! 74 ft-lbs. Mine came loose and by the time I got it home in the middle of a snow storm it wiped out my transfer case.
 

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