Unplugged wire…

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saig55

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Not sure where to post this… I’m swapping carbs today and noticed this wire unplugged. My oil pressure gauge doesn’t work so I thought it might be to that. Not sure, so before I put the carb on where I still have a bit of room…
Thought I would ask?..
Do you have to pull the distributor to replace the oil sending unit? And is there 2?
Thanks
 

saig55

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Ken B

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I have the same set up. IIRC the cylinder is for the oil pressure guage, and the other is for a dummy light. I was able to sneak in and replace the oil pressure sending unit cyl without removing anything, but it was tight
 

saig55

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Is that loose wire for the sending unit?
 

RustyPile

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That bell shaped sensor is for the oil pressure gauge. Tan wire (not the one in your pic) connects to it.. The other smaller sensor is an oil pressure switch. It's the "controller" for the electric choke. The switch is OFF when no oil pressure is present and ON when there is pressure. This switch has 2 terminals but the plug that connects to is has 3 wires -- a pink with white tracer, dark blue wire that goes to the "choke" light in the instrument panel, and a light blue wire that goes to the electric choke.

I always suggest that when doing any electrical work, whether it's simply sorting out connectors to be reconnected, or major electrical repair, refer to a wiring diagram of the year, make, model you're working on.. All the information I presented in the above paragraph is right there in the diagrams, complete with wire gauge and device name...

{EDIT} To answer your last question.. With the carburetor removed, replacement of the oil pressure sensor for the gauge should be easy enough.. Can't tell from the pictures but the gauge may not be working because the sensor is disconnected.. As always, first step is check fuses.
 
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saig55

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Fuses are good. Both units are plugged in. Still no oil pressure..
more things to check..
 

RustyPile

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The procedure for checking temperature gauge, fuel gauge, and in your case, oil pressure gauge. As I stated previously, check the fuses. Disconnect wire at sending unit. With ignition ON, the needle should move all the way to the left.. Ground that wire and the needle should move all the way to the right. This procedure checks the gauge and accompanying wiring. no movement means either there is an open circuit in the system somewhere, time to check wiring continuity. Or the gauge is bad. If movement checks out, suspect the sending unit.
 

saig55

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Thanks, will do this tomorrow..
 

saig55

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The further I get into fixing stuff the more I find wrong… this truck is truly all show and no go!!
I found a 4 pin connector unplugged and a jumper wire was just stuck inside the female side.. of course it fell out and I have no idea where he had it…
 

saig55

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saig55

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Some type of safety switch I presume because now the truck won’t start
 

saig55

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So this is for bypassing the ESC?
Why?
 

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