U joints

[flyboy1100]

got a bit of clunking when going from Park to Drive, so changing the u joints probably can't hurt. but I was looking at the parts options, and there seems to be 2 different size options. I'm guessing the only way to know is to remove them and bring them in?

brand recommendations? I have heard Spicer is good, but where do you buy them at? This isn't going to be a DD, maybe 3,000-5,000 miles/year once I get it running well.

 

[72chevy2door]

They are all just about fine. I used a set of autozone house brand around ten years ago in my dad's suburban and they lasted till about a year ago. He towed with it and everything. Plus it was a 3/4 ton so it hauled a lot of butt around. They where the grease able type but once they got put in we never touched em again. They had about 80,000 miles on them granted it was a two piece driveshaft. Spicer and timkin are good but that's just my opinion

 

[highdesertrange]

spicer is nicer. square bodies use 2 like you said a small one and a large one. it looks like you have a 1/2 ton, so probably you have the small one. highdesertranger

 

[MadOgre]

I have an 84 k1500 10 bolt rear with 3.42 gears and I just put in a federal mogal joint from napa 534G is the part number. Cost $27. Should be the same as yours.

I have tried all different ones from different parts shops and I specifically get the ones from napa as they last considerably longer than any other ones I have tried.

That 534G is greasable with the nipple angled. I put it on the rear shaft at the yoke with the nipple pointed to the back and now I can grease without having to take off the caps. The ones without angled nipples I could never get my grease gun on them always had to take the caps off and pull the joint out a little

 

[flyboy1100]

Did you do the front as well?

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[MadOgre]

Ya both u joints on the rear shaft. If Im not mistaken (Im getting old) the front drive shaft uses the same joints except for the ball obviously. last time I used all straight nipple joints and it works good on the front drive shaft and forward joint on the rear shaft just not for the rear shaft joint at the axle yoke.

I should add that the 534G is the inner clip style and if you still have the factory joints you will likely have to heat up the yokes to melt out the factory plastic retainers.

Just heat up the yoke around the u joint cup until all the plastic oozes out of the tiny hole by the cup. It can take 5-10 min with a small propane torch to get them hot enough. Then bang out your old u joints.

If you try to push out the cups with out melting the plastic you will break your yoke.

 

[flyboy1100]

I'm not sure if I do, but I'm pretty sure the front was rebuilt at some time. Probably a safe bet the rear was also changed.

Does the retainer style matter?

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[MadOgre]

Well some shafts use an outer clip that fits in the yoke right over top of the u joint cup.

If you have clips on either the inside or out side you will have no problems just remove the clips and then bang out the u joints. If you don't see any clips then you have the plastic factory still in there.