RockyGryphon
Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2013
- Posts
- 36
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- Wyoming
- First Name
- Jonathan
- Truck Year
- 1985
- Truck Model
- K10
- Engine Size
- 6.2L Diesel
1985 K10 Silverado 6.2L Diesel.
so I drove yesterday morning, afternoon wouldn't start. Cranking fine, glow plugs cycled (wipers came on!), turned on manual glow switch, nothing.
Pink wire to IP solenoid makes noise when dis/re-connected.
Fuel squirts out of the square fuel filter bleed port.
0.02v or no voltage between one glow plug and wire during cycling.
0.02 or no voltage between glow plugs and wires on both sides of engine during relay click cycling. Tested one plug on each side.
Plenty of fuel pumped out of the air filter bleed port when the top screw was loosened.
Plenty of fuel misting from 2nd to front right side glow plug hole.
Fuses in cab look good.
Didn't check voltage between pink wire and ip prong.
With a multimeter, I found:
Infinity resistance on front right two plugs between the prong and ground (engine and battery negative pole).
No voltage between the 2nd to front right glow plug and the battery's positive terminal.
12 volts between the front right glow plug and the battery's positive terminal.
In the past few years at least, in the cold, I've had to hold the manual glowing switch (that I installed) and hold the pedal slightly down to keep the engine running until warmed up and white smoke went away after driving a half block with the glow on. Maybe I left them on too long (longer than usual), burned them out and need new plugs?
I also noticed what looked like liquid under the lift pump. Maybe the pump sprung a leak and isn't putting enough pressure to the IP?
I haven't tested the relay or fusible links with a multimeter or 12v continuity light.
I also haven't tested resistance (to check continuity) between glow plug wire connectors and end at the relay connector.
I guess if the wires are ok, it's time to change the plugs and check to see if the lift pump really has a leak.
This may have to wait a few days until it stops snowing and freezing in the driveway.
so I drove yesterday morning, afternoon wouldn't start. Cranking fine, glow plugs cycled (wipers came on!), turned on manual glow switch, nothing.
Pink wire to IP solenoid makes noise when dis/re-connected.
Fuel squirts out of the square fuel filter bleed port.
0.02v or no voltage between one glow plug and wire during cycling.
0.02 or no voltage between glow plugs and wires on both sides of engine during relay click cycling. Tested one plug on each side.
Plenty of fuel pumped out of the air filter bleed port when the top screw was loosened.
Plenty of fuel misting from 2nd to front right side glow plug hole.
Fuses in cab look good.
Didn't check voltage between pink wire and ip prong.
With a multimeter, I found:
Infinity resistance on front right two plugs between the prong and ground (engine and battery negative pole).
No voltage between the 2nd to front right glow plug and the battery's positive terminal.
12 volts between the front right glow plug and the battery's positive terminal.
In the past few years at least, in the cold, I've had to hold the manual glowing switch (that I installed) and hold the pedal slightly down to keep the engine running until warmed up and white smoke went away after driving a half block with the glow on. Maybe I left them on too long (longer than usual), burned them out and need new plugs?
I also noticed what looked like liquid under the lift pump. Maybe the pump sprung a leak and isn't putting enough pressure to the IP?
I haven't tested the relay or fusible links with a multimeter or 12v continuity light.
I also haven't tested resistance (to check continuity) between glow plug wire connectors and end at the relay connector.
I guess if the wires are ok, it's time to change the plugs and check to see if the lift pump really has a leak.
This may have to wait a few days until it stops snowing and freezing in the driveway.
