Turbo 350 no drive has R L1 L2

[Gmule]

Did this guy say the trans worked after the rebuild? If someone rebuilt it and haven't tried it out yet, I say its a good possibility someone tore a drum seal. If you know it worked good after the build for sure, then you can pursue other possibilites. Low Pump Pressure can cause this too in a Th350.

My guess is going to be the Direct Clutch pack isn't working somehow. Whether that be a piston seal, a clog, a valve, whatever the case. Bummer that my Flow Charts are packed up and I don't even have a clue for certain where they're at.

He said it worked but at this point who knows what the true story is. If the valve body swap doesn't work I am going to see about rebuilding my old Transmission if I can sort out the tail housing bolt issue. If that is beyond repair I am going to go with a 700R4 swap with a 241C behind it and ditch the 203 so that I can have the best of both worlds with lower low range and overdrive. with the 3.08 ratio in the axles and the od of the 700R4 I should be able to get some decent fuel mileage with it. I still have a lot of work to do before it is roadworthy anyway.

Thank you to everyone that has tried to help me with this issue. It was good to learn some new stuff.

Greg

 

[crazy4offroad]

3.08 gears will kill the 700R4 in short order.

 

[HotRodPC]

He said it worked but at this point who knows what the true story is. If the valve body swap doesn't work I am going to see about rebuilding my old Transmission if I can sort out the tail housing bolt issue. If that is beyond repair I am going to go with a 700R4 swap with a 241C behind it and ditch the 203 so that I can have the best of both worlds with lower low range and overdrive. with the 3.08 ratio in the axles and the od of the 700R4 I should be able to get some decent fuel mileage with it. I still have a lot of work to do before it is roadworthy anyway.

Thank you to everyone that has tried to help me with this issue. It was good to learn some new stuff.

Greg

3.08 gears will kill the 700R4 in short order.

Yes, I see this post as I walking out the door and was going to say. If you want to keep the 3.08's, Keep the Th350. You don't need OD with 3.08's anyway. 3.08 is a tall gear and puts a good strain on the weaker 700r4, espeically if you intend to run any kind of bigger tire. I'd keep tire limit to 31x10.50 with a 700r4 for sure, unless you're running a 4.10 or 4.56 gear ratio.

 

[Gmule]

Yes, I see this post as I walking out the door and was going to say. If you want to keep the 3.08's, Keep the Th350. You don't need OD with 3.08's anyway. 3.08 is a tall gear and puts a good strain on the weaker 700r4, espeically if you intend to run any kind of bigger tire. I'd keep tire limit to 31x10.50 with a 700r4 for sure, unless you're running a 4.10 or 4.56 gear ratio.

I have no plans to run any thing larger than a 31X10.50.
I have been down the modified road with my Ramcharger and while it is great off road it is not good for much else. I plan on keeping this one a nice example of a vintage truck that could be a daily driver if I wanted to.

Here are a couple of shots of my Ramcharger

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[Gmule]

I went ahead and went for it and swapped out the valve bodies.
The transmission now works properly. Thanks to everyone who answered questions and let me know what to expect. It was a messy job but not as bad as I thought it would be. Now onto the tail light wiring and a tune up.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Glad to hear that fixed it! In the big picture it was the easier thing to do.

 

[Gmule]

Not sure if this was the problem or not but I don't think this is supposed to have a check ball here. This view is of the top of the valve body

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[crazy4offroad]

Nope that will definitely foul the valve so it can't move. Otherwise there may be nothing wrong with it.

 

[HotRodPC]

Not sure if this was the problem or not but I don't think this is supposed to have a check ball here. This view is of the top of the valve body

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Ahhh helll naww !! No ball goes there. Now whether that was the issue or not, not positive on that, but for sure, that is NOT a check ball location. And if that was important to move, for 1st, I can sure see how the ball might prevent or hang the valve from moving.

 

[Tyger13us]

Ahhh helll naww !! No ball goes there. Now whether that was the issue or not, not positive on that, but for sure, that is NOT a check ball location. And if that was important to move, for 1st, I can sure see how the ball might prevent or hang the valve from moving.

Ive seem that done before,, it was done to lock the first gear valve so ya can slam first gear @ any speed with the shift lever.......or someone really screwed up....

the th350 1 & 2 kit from trans go has a special spring that goes in there to lock the first gear "**** & git" hammer 1st gear at any speed........

back in the day,, we just jamed a ball As shown in the pic and it had the same effect.........

just be sure ya have your foot planted to the floor before hammering 1st!! and dont do it @ any speed over 45mph if ya have 3.73's and your motor wont tach over 6k!!!

you will break something.......

 

[HotRodPC]

Ive seem that done before,, it was done to lock the first gear valve so ya can slam first gear @ any speed with the shift lever.......or someone really screwed up....

the th350 1 & 2 kit from trans go has a special spring that goes in there to lock the first gear "**** & git" hammer 1st gear at any speed........

back in the day,, we just jamed a ball As shown in the pic and it had the same effect.........

just be sure ya have your foot planted to the floor before hammering 1st!! and dont do it @ any speed over 45mph if ya have 3.73's and your motor wont tach over 6k!!!

you will break something.......

That's a new one on me. I actually think it's a LACK OF a check ball that does the same thing. You can get a B&M shift improver kit and throw away 2 check balls as the instruction say, run the plate with dual feeding the way it can undone instead of leaving seals of the trans and pluggin holes in the pump section and do the same thing. I had a customer once blew his damn motor with one of my transmission. The transmission held up, but he meant for 2nd gear and got 1st instead. He ended breaking a couple valve springs and rings on at least 1 piston. This is why I tell people if you're getting into those type shift kits, you really should consider a ratchet or gated shifter.

 

[Tyger13us]

That's a new one on me. I actually think it's a LACK OF a check ball that does the same thing. You can get a B&M shift improver kit and throw away 2 check balls as the instruction say, run the plate with dual feeding the way it can undone instead of leaving seals of the trans and pluggin holes in the pump section and do the same thing. I had a customer once blew his damn motor with one of my transmission. The transmission held up, but he meant for 2nd gear and got 1st instead. He ended breaking a couple valve springs and rings on at least 1 piston. This is why I tell people if you're getting into those type shift kits, you really should consider a ratchet or gated shifter.

i have that same b&m kit in a full built th350 with 5 clutches in the drums,, 4 in the front drive set,,3500 stall,, super sprag,, in my monza behind 500hp..

havent blown it up yet,, but it wont go into first anything over 35mph,, i didnt lock the first gear valve in it.. but i understand that governor weights and spring adjustments will correct that..... i havent gone that far with it..

i did lock the first gear "i kinda wish i didnt" valve in my 78 4x4 with the transgo th350 1&2 kit and it has the dual feed also,,, i have hit first going to fast,, the motor tached 7k instantly and nothing broke, but i ether need to remove it or figure out a way to lock out first gear on a column shifter.. so im real careful with it now....

but i tell ya what,, doing 45 and nail 1st gear sure gets peoples attention running around on the street.........lights them tires right up!!!

 

[Gmule]

I used all of the old stuff to bring it back to stock. There may come a day when I go for a shift kit but right now I just need it to be driveable.