Transmission removal/install

[89Suburban]

Good **** guys!

 

[firebane]

You put the torque converter on the transmission first and spin it a few times, You should feel it fall into place a couple of times.

And you remove the dust cover on the bottom of the transmission and the bolt heads are on the backside of the flex plate, you'll have to spin the motor over to get to all of them.

Watching RoadKill they say the torque converter should "clunk" 3x when its being installed.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

I couldn't remember if it was two or three..

 

[Nick.koehler6]

Damn thanks guys, big help.

 

[Nick.koehler6]

Hey guys, Update time! We have the old transmission out. The motor tilted up and bumped the fire wall, Hope nothing broke. I am scared to check, I noticed something different with the 30 spine 700r4. The TV Cable is hooked up differently into the transmission. One hooks to a small clip, The other is hooked directly to the linkage. Also, We are having trouble lining up the transmission to the Engine. Any ideas on how we can line it up?

 

[PrairieDrifter]

There should be a couple of dowel pins that have to get lined up, chain the trans down tight on a jack and get it to where it looks the straightest with even gaps between the trans and the back of the block, try wiggling it around a bit too then once youre close you can start a few bolts and gently tighten them evenly until it slips together, make sure you don't go crazy tightening the bolts you can break parts of tthe transmission off. Automatic is easier than a manual

And as for your engine hitting the firewall, check the distributor and there should be the oil sending unit below the distributor could have gotten damaged unless In a different location on your motor

A transmission jack is definitely a plus since not only do you have to go up and down you have to be able to tilt the tail end of the trans up and down to get the front at a good angle and you have to be able to twist it on its centerline

 

[beest]

Another tip. When you get the dowel pins lined up, you can use a really long extension and a universal to put the bell housing bolts in from the bottom before you reinstall the cross member. Much easier than from the top.

 

[yevgenievich]

Another tip. When you get the dowel pins lined up, you can use a really long extension and a universal to put the bell housing bolts in from the bottom before you reinstall the cross member. Much easier than from the top.

That's the only way I have done it before. Too much crap in the way to get to the bolts from above. And it does take some moving around to get the transmission to slip on

 

[Simon]

I wish I had the following info when I changed my first transmission. I did not know about the "3 jumps" that should be felt when setting the torque converter into the pump and I had never seen the attached clearance chart. The result; I damaged the pump and - even though I was finally able to assemble it - within a few weeks, the entire transmission failed:

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Also, don't be surprised if the flex to T/C bolts are metric and require a 15 mm wrench.

if you're removing the entire unit as whole, is this still relevant? is it possible for the torque converter to become unseated on its own during removal? last time i pulled my th400 out i kept the converter in and just bolted everything right back up.

 

[Frankenchevy]

if you're removing the entire unit as whole, is this still relevant? is it possible for the torque converter to become unseated on its own during removal? last time i pulled my th400 out i kept the converter in and just bolted everything right back up.

The TC could slide forward a bit pretty easily.

 

[Simon]

Thanks! I’ll make sure to double check this time around. Should be pulling her today.