Transfer case seal?

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HotRodPC

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Go For it homie !!! Seals are cheap. Maybe $6 or $8. Pull the driveshaft and replace the seal only and see what happens. Worse that can happen is still leak or start to leak again in a few hudred miles. Can't make it any worse if you willing to invest the few bucks and about a half hour of time. Its a piece of cake. Probably take you longer to get the dshaft out than it will to get the seal out and tapped back in.
 
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sure does sound like you will be ok with just a new seal, mark the driveshaft position before you pull it, sometimes you can get a vibration if not put back in the same spot
 

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very true, rear end front end whatever it can vibrate if it's out like 180.
 

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Yea just changed the output shaft seal on t-case removed the yoke assy and popped it out with a screwdriver, had grooves worn into the yoke assy.anyone no where i can get one new or used without any groves? t-case 208c 85 k1500
 

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Yea just changed the output shaft seal on t-case removed the yoke assy and popped it out with a screwdriver, had grooves worn into the yoke assy.anyone no where i can get one new or used without any groves? t-case 208c 85 k1500
Check this out, I found it on Rockauto. Looks like a repair kit for that. I may get me this also and a new seal too, mine is slinging out fluid at highway speeds. This is like that sleeve and seal for harmonic balancers to create a new surface over the grooves for the new seal to ride on. You got to measure the yoke diameter. You got a dial caliper?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=257671
 

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wow what a great fix thanks john!
 

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That one does not use a new oversize seal, it uses an OEM seal. You use that install took, and press the ring over the shaft giving the yoke a new surface to ride on. Looks that one has a flange too which could be good for protecting the seal. Could also be bad if it allows to stuff to build up between the seal the flange. Those type items are usually very effective and buy quite a bit of time. I'd go with it, then when I rebuilt my transfer case, I'd go ahead and see about a new yoke then.
 

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That one does not use a new oversize seal, it uses an OEM seal. You use that install took, and press the ring over the shaft giving the yoke a new surface to ride on. Looks that one has a flange too which could be good for protecting the seal. Could also be bad if it allows to stuff to build up between the seal the flange. Those type items are usually very effective and buy quite a bit of time. I'd go with it, then when I rebuilt my transfer case, I'd go ahead and see about a new yoke then.
I think the flange is mainly for the tool to push against during the install homie.
 

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I think the flange is mainly for the tool to push against during the install homie.

Yes, I am sure it is, but it should still double as a cover over the seal for whatever good it might provide.
 

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Yes, I am sure it is, but it should still double as a cover over the seal for whatever good it might provide.
Yes, I didn't think of that. Sure is a nice way to get more miles out of a grooved yoke. :waytogo:
 

89Suburban

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Every time I climb under this truck I want to have the scrap yard tow it away....
 

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Don't do that, it's a good parts truck. :rofl:

Never know about guy like you. Complains about all the rust, now the truck is self lubricating the under carriage to protect itself, and you're all pist off. :rofl:
 

89Suburban

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Don't do that, it's a good parts truck. :rofl:

Never know about guy like you. Complains about all the rust, now the truck is self lubricating the under carriage to protect itself, and you're all pist off. :rofl:

Just the hot weather and grease getting in my eyes, gasoline running into my arm pit, lol.... :help:
 

HotRodPC

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Just the hot weather and grease getting in my eyes, gasoline running into my arm pit, lol.... :help:

That'll wash the stinch off won't it??? I hate when fluids travel down my arms.
 

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