Transfer case drop

[Zelph]

Can i just remove it?

Yes. Plenty of guys on the K5 forum remove it.
You can always add it later if you feel the need to.

 

[Bextreme04]

The 4” looks good but not too extreme. But u have a long bed. My K5 DS is short and Im worried about driveline vibration

I also dont think i could squeeze 35s on stock height, i have a 31-32 right now and they rub at full lock

Just make sure you have the pinion angle right and you’ll be fine.

Yes, you can just remove the sway bar.

Mine would have rubbed at stock height(and maybe even on the 4”). It only didn’t rub because the previous owner had cut the fenders. I personally think a 15 or 16” rim with 33’s and a 4” lift would give you the best of everything. Plenty of ground clearance and you should have no rubbing.

 

[nvrenuf]

@K5Rob check out this thread for tons of lift combo example pics.

How Will My Square Body Look With XX Lift and XX Tires?

We've got this on another site I surf and it's a great tool for folks trying to get ideas or see how a combo will look. It helps to cut down on the repetitive "how will 4" lift & 33's look" posts. _________________________________________________ Keep it simple, post a pic w/ simple lift and...

www.gmsquarebody.com

 

[K5Rob]

@K5Rob check out this thread for tons of lift combo example pics.

How Will My Square Body Look With XX Lift and XX Tires?

We've got this on another site I surf and it's a great tool for folks trying to get ideas or see how a combo will look. It helps to cut down on the repetitive "how will 4" lift & 33's look" posts. _________________________________________________ Keep it simple, post a pic w/ simple lift and...

www.gmsquarebody.com

Thanks for the link. I am still on the fence between 2” and 4”. I am only running about a 31” on a 16x10 but getting some pretty severe rubbing on the rear part of front fender. I had to run a spacer to get the rim away from the tie rods so there is about 1 tread block sticking out past the fender. I assume my stock suspension is sagging but there is no way for me to know for sure. Stupid question but is a 2” lift a true 2” or is it more? I know with my tire size a 2” would probably be more appropriate than the 4” which seems to be suited more towards 35s but i’d be bummed to find it still rubs. Also if i went 4” I am worried it may make the tire look too small. And of course more importantly worried i will end up having to mess with driveshafts. I dont believe the kit comes with shims. Not really sure. What are your thoughts

 

[SquareRoot]

Put a CV on the rear shaft and be done with it. I put one on my K20 LB with a 2 inch lift. Overkill? Maybe, but it cuts the u joint angles in half and will outlast the truck. Why ya think the factory put them on the front?

 

[K5Rob]

I pulled the trigger on a 2” all spring. Will ditch the sway bar as suggested here and i also got 1” zero rates coming in case i need a lil more.

 

[chris3353]

87 K5 Blazer, 5.3/4L60E/NP208

I am planning on a lift kit in the 2-4” range and a transfer case drop is recommended by the mfr. I just finished squaring away my transfer case stiffener arm that runs up to the bell housing. (Had to lengthen it but it was off a parts truck with unknown running gear). I am not around by my truck now to visualize but my question is will dropping the transfer case interfere with the stiffener arm length or any other components that I should be aware of? Does the drop kit tilt the motor back?

I run a 2" ono a suburban, No drop. no problem. I did have to cut/modify my crossmember to clear the from CV joint.

 

[Bextreme04]

I pulled the trigger on a 2” all spring. Will ditch the sway bar as suggested here and i also got 1” zero rates coming in case i need a lil more.

The zero rates have the benefit of allowing you to offset the front by 1/2" or 1" usually. If you move the axle forward a bit, it will clear a bigger tire without rubbing on an uncut fender.

 

[Blazerbiker]

I'm a big fan of 2-3" of lift on a K5. And also a fan of CV driveshafts on the rear of K5s. I fought my original K5 for years with driveline vibes and finally relented and put a CV on it and haven't looked back. It's always worth trying with a stock driveshaft if you can since sometimes they work OK. There's a huge matrix of variables like gear ratios, tire size, lift height and angles, driving speeds and likely more. Sometimes they surprise you and stuff works great, other times a CV shaft is the way. If we're starting from scratch and have to buy a shaft, the CV is always the way.

 

[74Blaze]

I have 4" lift springs on my K5. I removed the Sway Bar when I installed Cross-over Steering. Drives and handles fine. I did have both my Drive Shafts lengthened so they ride in the slip yokes correctly.

 

[K5Rob]

The zero rates have the benefit of allowing you to offset the front by 1/2" or 1" usually. If you move the axle forward a bit, it will clear a bigger tire without rubbing on an uncut fender.

I was thinking about this. Would definitely benefit as it sits now. Hopefully will have enough clearance (should) after the lift to keep it in the middle position