Timing pointer?

[one4fun]

Cripes...where is the timing pointer supposed to be on an 86 K10 with a 350? I swear, there is not one on my motor.

 

[chengny]

Look almost straight down behind the water pump:

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That is a stock 1986 350 timing cover - the timing tab is just a bit CW past 12 o'clock.

To shine a timing light on it, you pretty much have to kneel on the radiator support.

 

[HotRodPC]

Is there actually 2 different timing tabs for SBC chengny? The pointer to use actually is determined by the balancer you're using. Simple as removing 2 timing cover bolt usually and bolting it in. I think you can usually get an afternamrket Mr Gasket timing tab in chrome for about $10. The challenge is to know which one of the 2 is the correct one.

But don't get me to lying. Verify this info first before you do anything. My advice on this is only as valuable what you're paying for it. FREE which means worth nothing.

 

[chengny]

I agree 100% - the correct position of timing tab on the cover is determined by which balancer is installed on the crankshaft. The stock balancer from 86 and up is marked so that it needs the tab at about 12 oclock. Earlier balancers had the score mark more in the CW direction - they need the tab at about 2 oclock.

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I thought he was just wondering where his tab might be. I assumed the 1986 engine was as original - and the tab would be straight up.

 

[89Suburban]

Posted From Hell

 

[one4fun]

Oh, sooooo I found it. But, getting a timing light on it with the a/c lines and other hoses going across...I can't figure out how to see the mark with the light pointed in there.

Sent from my MB865 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2

 

[79azc10]

Ok so to piggy back on the above topic is there is specific angle you should hold timing light at. I have 79 c10 with original timing tab , my balancer looks to be an original 6 3/4 balancer. I can see the timing tab and balancer notch by looking just to the left of the powering steerig pump. But I cannot get a eye on the barrel looking part of the tab. I guess my question is there an optimal angle to tab to shine the light

 

[Boone83K10]

A 79 shouldn't have a tube. I've never seen a tube pointer that early.

 

[79azc10]

Hmmm the truck is new to me and I know it's not the original engine. I ran the engine numbers and looks to be a 1976 from a car

 

[chengny]

Completely disregard that tube. It was there to mount a "magnetic timing probe" - failed technology that was abandoned years ago.

Read on:


There is an additional socket next to the timing scale, it is a socket for a magnetic timing probe. Do not set the timing through this socket with a standard timing light. This socket is positioned 10 degrees ATDC and will yield inaccurate timing specifications if used with a standard timing light.


Magnetic Timing Meter:

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Many late model engines can be timed with a magnetic timing meter. This meter has a timing probe which is installed in a magnetic timing receptacle near the conventional timing marks. The timing meter also uses an inductive pickup which clamps over the number one spark plug. Once all connection are made, the engine is started, and timing can be read directly from the meter dial.

ELECTRONIC TIMING PROBE
Mostly on GM, a magnetic sensor fits into a tube by the front pulley (harmonic balancer). You view the timing degrees on an LED digital readout. All cars set up for this have traditional timing marks next to the hole for the timing sensor probe..

 

[79azc10]

Nice thanks for the info , that really helps

 

[chengny]

Just set your timing by ear.

Any factory timing spec (for either the truck or the engine) is pretty much useless now. If your motor was built in 1976, it was a whole different world. For example, timing would have been based on the assumption that the gasoline would be leaded and there would be no emission controls.

Loosen your distributor clamp down bolt. Spray some WD-40 under the distributor flange to allow for ease of rotation. Tighten the clamp bolt back down just enough to hold the distributor in place but still allow you to make adjustments.

Start the engine and rotate the distributor CCW. The engine speed should increase. Find the spot where the RPM is the highest. Snug up on the clamp bolt just a bit. Take the truck for a ride.

Find a steep hill and accelerate hard - really lay into it. You should hear the engine start to ping. You have set your timing too far ahead. It will have to be retarded a bit.

Go back to the garage/driveway and rotate the distributor a little bit in the CW direction. Start the engine for another test drive. If it kicks back while attempting to start, don't even bother going on another test drive, you are still too far advanced. Move the distributor a bit more in the CW direction.

Once you can start without kickback - and get no pinging under WOT conditions, the timing is set. You can clamp the distributor down permanantly.

 

[79azc10]

I'll will try that , this is my first carbureted vehicle , my truck is older than I am

 

[HotRodPC]

Yep, what Chegny said about the round barrel. The idea on that was, so techs could just put a probe in that hole and it would read the DASH line on the balancer. IIRC, there were even some models that came out and that's all they had. No pointer or numbers on it at all. At any rate, that was when Scope tuning was real big. Kinda back in the days when I was starting to work on cars and do CA Smog Emmisions testing. You just hooked up all your leads and probes, and then read all that **** and make your adjustments as needed.

I remember too, those were the days of the $39.95 Quick Tune. Hook it all up, read the scope. There's 2 plugs not doing so good, 1 plug wire not in the best of shape. Replace the 2 plugs, replace 1 plug wire, re run the scope, all good. DONE !!! Collect $39.95 and see them next week for another $39.95 and this time replace 2 different plug wires and maybe another plug. No Joke. That's the way it was done. It was common to need a tune up about evrey 3 months if you did the Jiffy Lube & Tune.