Ticking Sound from Inspection Plate

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87sierra

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It sounds like a timming issue i had a simmilar problem on my were timming was to far advanced and the truck wanted to cut out if i didnt stay on the throttle
 

jgasca

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It sounds like a timming issue i had a simmilar problem on my were timming was to far advanced and the truck wanted to cut out if i didnt stay on the throttle

I'll give an update when I get the timing done. I hope this fixes this, I wouldn't wanna take my engine off again :emotions122:
 

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Ok so I ran into a lot of questions and concerns. So something is definitely not right in the bell housing area, it shakes a bit when I release the clutch on 1st (not low) and when I press the clutch while the truck is moving forward, say to downshift or up-shift, you can hear something rattle/bounce around in/near the tranny. I'm thinking the pilot bearing is dangling down there or ever my throw-out bearing. When I release the clutch and get the truck going it drives fine. I know I'll have to take the engine out and check it out but for now is it dangerous or harmful to drive the truck like this?

On another note the truck seems to get flooded alot, sometimes the truck wont move no matter how much gas you give it. I have to hit the clutch, press the gas all the way to clear the carb to get it back to normal. This happens randomly, more when cold.

My timing isn't done yet because I swapped the balancer due to pulley alignment issues so the marks are different.
 

89Suburban

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Is your choke sticking or not adjusted properly?
 

jgasca

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Is your choke sticking or not adjusted properly?

So to what I understand, the choke is used to give the motor more gas when first start up (cold) then once the motor warms up the choke deactivates......am I missing something?

I notice when I first start my truck that the idle is higher than usual (due to the choke activating). Once the truck warms up, I tap on the gas once and the idle returns to normal...... this usually happens with my truck.
 

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Yah that's right, sound like it's operating right, maybe the needle valve is hanging up sometimes. Can't help you with the trans questions. I thought somebody would have chimed in on that by now.
 

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Yah that's right, sound like it's operating right, maybe the needle valve is hanging up sometimes. Can't help you with the trans questions. I thought somebody would have chimed in on that by now.

Well I'm thinking its gonna have alot to do with the timing. It is an edelbrock 1406 electric choke. Maybe the tuning (gas/air) is wrong.

I'll just wait till it gets warmer to even try taking the engine out. Just a thought, would it be easier to take off the tranny/transfer case or the engine??
 

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Well I'm thinking its gonna have alot to do with the timing. It is an edelbrock 1406 electric choke. Maybe the tuning (gas/air) is wrong.

I'll just wait till it gets warmer to even try taking the engine out. Just a thought, would it be easier to take off the tranny/transfer case or the engine??

Pull the drivelines, And you can move the whole shebang back from the engine. cut a few 2x4's to fit in between the frame rails to hold verything up. Also, go to the hardware stor with a bell housing bolt, and get a few lengths of allthread rod...thats what I use to hel keep things lighnes up when doing a clutch or flywheel by myself.
 

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I would take it easy on it until you can open her up and do a visual inspection.

I wouldn't drive it at all. If a Tc bolt breaks, and then is floating around in the bellhousing, it can and will damage the bellhousing, and make even worse noises. Had a perfectly good 700R4 out of am 85 suburban that suffered this very same fate. Root of the problem? All 3 Tc bolts broken off in the converter. Put a new converter in it and it ran fine for a few hundred miles, until the bellhousing broke at the windows the bolts had created.
 

jgasca

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Well I know its been a while but I have some good news. This weekend I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel. The noise is gone! Shifts smooth!

Now my only problem is the shakes at take off. I hoping setting the timing will fix that! But i can't set my timing cause the harmonic balancers mark doesn't match up with the timing tab on the engine.

So I think I understand my problem. When we removed the 305 that came with this truck, we took the harmonic balancer from the 305 and installed it on the 350 being that the pulleys didn't match for the alternator, AC, power steering pump, and fan. So I was reading that the balancer from the 305 won't match up with the timing tabs of a 350, and there are different sizes of balancers that I could use.

So right now I had to use washers almost on every pulley just to make them line up. I'm not sure if I have them set up right but it works for now. Does anyone know the right setup as far as which pulleys to use?
 

jgasca

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Ok so I swapped out the balancers and the pulleys look like they're good. I tried putting the timing and no luck. I get the mark to between 10 and 14 btdc, and the truck runs like crap. I was told that on some 350's the right timing mark is at the 12 O'Clock mark on the balancer.

Can anyone confirm this?

I still get alot of chatter when first taking off, I dont know what this could be being that I just put in a new flywheel.
 

jgasca

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Well turns out the correct timing mark was around the 12 O'clock position. I bought a new timing tab and all is well. Not sure if I had the balancers for a 305 all along or what but I'll just leave it at that.

Installed LUK clutch/pressure plate and flywheel and the truck is much better!!

My old flywheel had mad signs of burn marks..... bad pressure plate?
 

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