Symptoms of a bad/failing ECU?

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nmyron3983

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I hate to kick a long-dead horse, but here goes.

I have an 87 V10 350 4-speed. It runs, but for the duration of the time I've owned the truck, the SES light has never worked. The ALDL circuit to pins A/B works, I was able to jumper that to reset the IAC after I replaced it, I could hear the IAC motor clicking, the pintle seated fully, but no SES. There is never an SES at startup either. But the truck runs acceptably, albeit a bit rich and stinky from what I can tell (but the P.O. pulled the CATs, and I stripped the A.I.R. smog system, so maybe that's just "the way of things" now, as of yet not sure).

I followed the below guides provided by @chengny (BTW, where are these two pages from? I could not find them in the 87 FSM, or the 87 factory wiring diagrams?? I'd love to have a copy of this guide for my own diagnostics purposes). Firstly I stripped the dash apart and pulled the cluster, and checked every bulb. I did have some dead lights for cluster backlights, but the SES bulb itself was fine. The lights that were there were already dim, so I went ahead and stripped the cluster apart and put some nice bright white gloss paint in the cluster bucket and reassembled everything. So now my lights are nice and bright and clear, but still no SES.

So I went to the ECU harness. Just prior to the ECU, there is a 4 or 5 pin box connector that feeds BRN/WHITE as well as a few other circuits into the ECU. I popped that apart, and using a test light grounded BRN/WHITE, what should be Circuit 419 for the SES. I got a light on my test light with the ignition on, and polarity indicates it is a ground path. This tells me that indeed, voltage is making it from the cluster to C419's ground path. But the light on the cluster did not illuminate (I would think, since I'm grounding it's dedicated ground feed from the ECU, it should have). A caveat to this is I was not using a standard 12V test light, I was using the 'computer safe' variety that also uses green/red lights to indicate the polarity of the path you're tapping. I believe these only conduct millivoltages, not a full 12V.

Should I redo this test with the proper regular test light? Should I expect to see, with key on and C419 grounded, my test light illuminate and also the SES light on my dash light up? Pardon for a somewhat "dumb" question here. I've done a lot of work on my own cars over the years, but besides stereo installations I've never really had to deal with too many wiring gremlins, so I'm a bit new to this type of troubleshooting.

Here is the diagnostic procedure for "No SES Light". The left hand side of the flow chart on page 2 deals with a "No SES Light but engine still starts" condition:

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Couldn't find any info on what "SES flashing while cranking" would indicate. That might even be normal operation. I've never had a truck with an ECM, so I can't comment on that. Maybe someone else - with an ECM equipped truck - can confirm whether or not the SES is supposed to flash while the starter is operating.
 

AuroraGirl

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I hate to kick a long-dead horse, but here goes.

I have an 87 V10 350 4-speed. It runs, but for the duration of the time I've owned the truck, the SES light has never worked. The ALDL circuit to pins A/B works, I was able to jumper that to reset the IAC after I replaced it, I could hear the IAC motor clicking, the pintle seated fully, but no SES. There is never an SES at startup either. But the truck runs acceptably, albeit a bit rich and stinky from what I can tell (but the P.O. pulled the CATs, and I stripped the A.I.R. smog system, so maybe that's just "the way of things" now, as of yet not sure).

I followed the below guides provided by @chengny (BTW, where are these two pages from? I could not find them in the 87 FSM, or the 87 factory wiring diagrams?? I'd love to have a copy of this guide for my own diagnostics purposes). Firstly I stripped the dash apart and pulled the cluster, and checked every bulb. I did have some dead lights for cluster backlights, but the SES bulb itself was fine. The lights that were there were already dim, so I went ahead and stripped the cluster apart and put some nice bright white gloss paint in the cluster bucket and reassembled everything. So now my lights are nice and bright and clear, but still no SES.

So I went to the ECU harness. Just prior to the ECU, there is a 4 or 5 pin box connector that feeds BRN/WHITE as well as a few other circuits into the ECU. I popped that apart, and using a test light grounded BRN/WHITE, what should be Circuit 419 for the SES. I got a light on my test light with the ignition on, and polarity indicates it is a ground path. This tells me that indeed, voltage is making it from the cluster to C419's ground path. But the light on the cluster did not illuminate (I would think, since I'm grounding it's dedicated ground feed from the ECU, it should have). A caveat to this is I was not using a standard 12V test light, I was using the 'computer safe' variety that also uses green/red lights to indicate the polarity of the path you're tapping. I believe these only conduct millivoltages, not a full 12V.

Should I redo this test with the proper regular test light? Should I expect to see, with key on and C419 grounded, my test light illuminate and also the SES light on my dash light up? Pardon for a somewhat "dumb" question here. I've done a lot of work on my own cars over the years, but besides stereo installations I've never really had to deal with too many wiring gremlins, so I'm a bit new to this type of troubleshooting.
a new thread would work better but not a huge deal.
Now bare with me, but im 90% certain if you own an analog DVOM (volt meter) you can use that and watch for sweeping on the face to read the codes. You should read a 1... 1.2.. (12) which would be desireable. Do you own one?

being your truck works Im inclined to think the light circuit is not working for some reason and that its still "functional" and storing codes.
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AuroraGirl

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here is fig 28:

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nmyron3983

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Okay, thanks for the pinout data, I could not find that. What manuals do these come from? I have the 87 FSM and Wiring Diagram, but could not find some of these in there, nor the "Computer Control" diagrams the prior poster had provided in their replies.

I do have good bulbs, tested that. I will try testing the system grounds this weekend. I'll also test 419 at the ECM connector itself and ensure I can pull it to ground.

In the final flowchart there, as it was also provided on page 1 by @chengny, I followed the engine start yes path. Pulled the battery cables, disconnected the ECM, reconnected the battery and grounded brn/white to the chassis, did get a light on my test light but no SES on the dash with key on using the computer-safe test lamp. Should I be expecting to see the lamp light on the dash as well? Perhaps I should use a regular test lamp as opposed to the computer-safe variety (per the back of the package the Lisle computer safe test lamp only passes millivolts and indicates polarity, whereas the standard test lamp package will pass the full 12v and does not have polarity indication). I do have both, I just didn't want to risk cooking anything.

Unfortunately I do not currently have an analog style voltmeter, just a digital readout variety. I will have to look into that as an alternative until I can sort out the light circuit.

I mean, it does run. And I think it is just the lamp circuit, or possibly a grounding issue, as I also have no 4WD lamp when the 4WD is engaged and hubs locked, and my oil pressure gauge is nutty and pegs out as soon as the motor starts. While I have done a lot on cars in the past, this is the first time I've ever needed to really dig into a complex electrical issue, about the farthest I've ever had to go is to check internal resistance on a sensor to verify failure, so this is all a bit new.
 

Originalthor

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Sounds like you might have a power issue to the cluster. Or the cluster bands itself . The ecm gives ground to the ses light and the same with the 4x4 light. I just redid my harness on my 89 tbi suburban and kinda made it a stand alone from the truck harness. I had to run a hot wire to a bulb and the ecm was the ground for the light to come on.
 

Originalthor

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Also couple things to check for the ecm if it's bad or not but with truck running give the ecm a little wack with your hand if the engine studders or changes there's a short in it.

Also you can run a test light to the injectors. One side is ground and other side is power. On the ground side with key on put the test light on the positive and touch the ground wire on the injector. If it dimly lights thats another sign of bad or failing ecm.
 

AuroraGirl

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Okay, thanks for the pinout data, I could not find that. What manuals do these come from? I have the 87 FSM and Wiring Diagram, but could not find some of these in there, nor the "Computer Control" diagrams the prior poster had provided in their replies.

I do have good bulbs, tested that. I will try testing the system grounds this weekend. I'll also test 419 at the ECM connector itself and ensure I can pull it to ground.

In the final flowchart there, as it was also provided on page 1 by @chengny, I followed the engine start yes path. Pulled the battery cables, disconnected the ECM, reconnected the battery and grounded brn/white to the chassis, did get a light on my test light but no SES on the dash with key on using the computer-safe test lamp. Should I be expecting to see the lamp light on the dash as well? Perhaps I should use a regular test lamp as opposed to the computer-safe variety (per the back of the package the Lisle computer safe test lamp only passes millivolts and indicates polarity, whereas the standard test lamp package will pass the full 12v and does not have polarity indication). I do have both, I just didn't want to risk cooking anything.

Unfortunately I do not currently have an analog style voltmeter, just a digital readout variety. I will have to look into that as an alternative until I can sort out the light circuit.

I mean, it does run. And I think it is just the lamp circuit, or possibly a grounding issue, as I also have no 4WD lamp when the 4WD is engaged and hubs locked, and my oil pressure gauge is nutty and pegs out as soon as the motor starts. While I have done a lot on cars in the past, this is the first time I've ever needed to really dig into a complex electrical issue, about the farthest I've ever had to go is to check internal resistance on a sensor to verify failure, so this is all a bit new.
Find the wire to the connector for the light. Run a positive to a 194 bulb on one side. then somehow tap or borrow the ground from the ECM. that bulb then will behave how you need it to
 

nmyron3983

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Sounds like you might have a power issue to the cluster. Or the cluster bands itself . The ecm gives ground to the ses light and the same with the 4x4 light. I just redid my harness on my 89 tbi suburban and kinda made it a stand alone from the truck harness. I had to run a hot wire to a bulb and the ecm was the ground for the light to come on.
The bands, like the printed circuit on the back? I was really hoping it would just be a cut wire someplace

I have been considering getting the parts to do a tach in the cluster, as currently I only have the massive fuel gauge on the right. Last I checked LMC had the circuit sheets, maybe I should look back into that.
 

nmyron3983

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Find the wire to the connector for the light. Run a positive to a 194 bulb on one side. then somehow tap or borrow the ground from the ECM. that bulb then will behave how you need it to
The connector for the light at the back of the cluster? Or at the ECM harness?
 

AuroraGirl

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Gotcha, like probe that 419 circuit to one leg of the bulb and the other to a body ground
what scott said. the ECM sends the ground. so if you provide 12v pos to the one side without grounding the other, the bulb wont do anything. then the ECM at key on will ground that other side, and it will light. Then when you short the ALDL you will get flashing. make sense?
 

nmyron3983

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Okay, so, progress. Put my standard 12V test light on ground, tapped A5 at the ECU with the key on I had an SES light as long as I was tapped into A5.

I'll check the system grounds to make sure everything is solid on that side and go from there.
 
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nmyron3983

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System grounds are good on both harnesses. So sounds like an ECU fault yea?
 

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