Start issue Wednesday

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84GMCSierra

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So a weird thing happened on Wednesday. Went to start my truck, and it sounded like when my starter had lost a mounting bolt. Loud clunk and I could feel it in the truck. No issues up until then. Changed the oil and filter on Tuesday and it started fine. I haven't tried it since as I'm working. Checked the mounting and both bolts are in and they seem tight, but can't check until later after work. Could it be an issue with the starter. I'll have to look though my repair records, as I can't remember if I've changed it out. or just cleaned it. 84 Sierra 2500 350/TH400
 

fast 99

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Could be, anything electrical can fail without warning. Using a known good battery with clean terminals check for power at starter on the battery lead and S terminal with key in start position. Then make sure crank isn't stuck. If it's all good, bad starter.
 

squaredeal91

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Aside from checking power I would put a bar on crank and see if it turns. I believe it's a 5/8 socket
 

84GMCSierra

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UPDATE: I just went out and started it, and it did the same thing, but not as harsh. I did replace the starter and battery February 5, 2020. Engine turns and runs fine, just a little rough, so I'm suspecting the starter may be on it's way out. I'll clean all the terminals on Sunday when I'm off, and see what happens then. I'm sure the terminals on the starter are greasy from the oil pan leak, and will make sure everything is tight. Thanks everyone for your help.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Light oil film ok. Constant oil saturation no good.
Oil on the mounting surface is also not desirable. Check the connections on all cables and terminals. I had a hot start issue on my Burb, and part of it was because the cables were corroded. The other contributing factor was the small ignition terminal on the solenoid was VERY loose. Replacing the bad cables and tightening that terminal made the difference; that starter worked fine for another 2 1/2 years.
 

fast 99

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Oil on the mounting surface is also not desirable. Check the connections on all cables and terminals. I had a hot start issue on my Burb, and part of it was because the cables were corroded. The other contributing factor was the small ignition terminal on the solenoid was VERY loose. Replacing the bad cables and tightening that terminal made the difference; that starter worked fine for another 2 1/2 years.
OP said there was a oil pan leak and the starter failed prematurely. Was referring to the exterior of the currently installed starter and if enough oil penetrates to the inside it may fail.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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OP said there was a oil pan leak and the starter failed prematurely. Was referring to the exterior of the currently installed starter and if enough oil penetrates to the inside it may fail.
This is true! I had to clean my starter up a bit too, it was oily outside so prolly some got inside. It did come off a Chevy motor, of course it has some oil on it.....
 

84GMCSierra

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See if the rear mount is on the starter.If not look for cracks in the nose cone or around the outer bolt hole on the block.
I've already had one bolt break off in the block, but it came out real easy. I'll check it later today to make sure both bolts are tight. I have some anti seize to put on them as well
 

Ricko1966

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I've already had one bolt break off in the block, but it came out real easy. I'll check it later today to make sure both bolts are tight. I have some anti seize to put on them as well
Without the rear brace you have a much bigger chance of breaking bolts,chewing up flywheels breaking nose cones,and breaking the outer bolt hole on the block.
 

84GMCSierra

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Light oil film ok. Constant oil saturation no good.
I was hoping to get the oil pan gasket replaced with my one piece gasket after wife's surgery but still trying to find the time between working full time, and making sure she's comfortable
Are they really starter bolts, usually only break if loose. Common bolts won't work.

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They are actual starter bolts. I won't use anything but the right bolts in any application
Without the rear brace you have a much bigger chance of breaking bolts,chewing up flywheels breaking nose cones,and breaking the outer bolt hole on the block.
I need to get it on the starter. Hopefully it's the right one. I've had it in my stash of extra parts for years
 

84GMCSierra

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So here's some pics of what I'm dealing with. The bolts are correct, and I'm pretty sure the brace will work, but I don't see a place to mount the brace on the block. The only bolt head I see is a drain plug for the block. The engine is an aftermarket 350 so obviously they don't put mounts for the starter on these blocks. Hope these are clear enough to see. Also, what could I do to use the starter bracket? Does the one part of the bracket mount to the long bolt on the front of the starter solenoid?
 

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HotWheelsBurban

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The bracket goes on the top thru bolt on the starter, the one that looks like a stud with a nut and washer. I haven't seen one of these intact in years, so all I can say is to mount it to that bolt/stud on the starter, hold it in place (or bolt it up to the mount so you don't have to hold it, I know they're heavy!)and see where the other end lands. The bracket's curvature should d follow the side of the block.
I'm not sure the 400 I have, still has a starter on it, and that's the only small block I have that's old enough to have this bracket. These were a great idea, but many got tossed when the starter was changed, because "it's in the way, what do we need this for". GM wouldn't have put it there if it wasn't needed.
 

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