slip yoke swap

[Raider L]

Recently I found where a mystery leak was coming from at the tail piece of the TH350 trans. I couldn't figure it out for the longest where the trans. fluid was leaking until I was under the truck with it jacked way up so I could just lay on a creeper for awhile watching. I'd wipe and after awhile a drop would form and after some time it would drip. Then after a long while 'cause I'm looking all over for other wetness and determining where it all was coming from sometimes I wasn't watching and then a drip was hanging and I didn't get to see where it had come from. Then I found it and I couldn't believe it was leaking from there! It was coming from the dang cap inside the sides of the slip yoke! It was hard to see because the shaft yoke is in there to covering the cap. I thought the leak was coming from the tail piece seal. I wanted to see if the local trans. shops had seen this before and a couple of places when I asked them how many shafts had they fixed had this problem. I must have been speaking Greek because that's the kind of answer I got from them like I was speaking some obscure dialect. "You know the cap in the end of the slip yoke?" "Does this leak very often?" I'd get, "Uhhhhhh, sometimes they do." Meaning, "Hardly never." Like how was it supposed to come loose?
So I got one I thought would serve my needs better. Instead of a regular yoke, I got one for a Jeep with the U-bolts on it so I could remove the short shaft and not the yoke.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

I had this happen on my suburban, new slip yoke, new seal and all good. I know at least one or two others on the site have as well.

 

[Raider L]

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I had to go to my other computer to find the photos of my mod. as discribed above. These are all Dana Spicer u-joints and the slip yoke, and universal joints. I rebuilt my whole drive train. It needed it. I only found one u-joint that was loose needing changing.

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[Raider L]

See the "box" where the speedometer goes in the trans.? It took me forever to find an example of it to find parts. All the ones I found were for just the bullet, not a box the cable went into. Although mine does have a bullet, it's after the box..
There's a gear cluster in the box. There's a gear reduction inside or something to that affect. I haven't taken it apart yet. I will need to make a new gasket for it if I do.

 

[Raider L]

More photos.

I'll have to change computer to get the pics of my traction bar bushing rebuild. It's cool.

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[Raider L]

Let me see if those are on this computer. These are "Super Lift" pro off road traction bars. They don't make these anymore. I called Super Lift and asked them why they didn't make them anymore and they said they were ionto newer cars and trucks and there's no call for this kind of bar. I'll bet some of you guys would like a pair of these. You guys who have a much better set up than I am can take a look and make a set of these for yourselves. They're not that complicated. Let's see, this photo below is the drivers side. And the next photo is the pass. side. It's kinda of a trick to bolt them to the front spring hanger though, but not that hard. So long as you line them up with the leaf spring plate you're good. That's a 3/4" X 3 1/2" bolt front and back, with a 3/4" nylon lock nut with thick big washers.

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[Raider L]

If you would like the Energy Suspension p/n for the bushings I've got that handy. My entire suspension is Energy Suspension polyurethane, NO rubber. Even the dust boots are all Energy Suspension polyurethane. I know a lot of people are going to "Delren" I think that's how it's spelled. But it's not any kind of poly. It's a hard plastic. There's no give or anything springy, it's hard as a rock but it's real slippery. A lot of the coil over tubular front suspensions are using it. I'm old school and like polyurethane.

 

[Raider L]

Oh yeah, I forgot, the front on these bars is adjustable for how much spring wind up you may want. When you get into it the spring starts to wind up and the adjustment bolt in the end of the bar starts to move where it's attached to the front hanger bracket. Once it reaches the end of it's travel it stops and the spring wind up stops and the tire digs in just like a ladder bar. You can loosen the lock nut that is attached to the front bar eye end, remove that eye end from the front bracket and screw the eye end in or out for adjusting the point the eye end stops the spring wind up. You can either take it all out by screwing it all the way to the end of the slot that is cut in the bracket hole for the bolt, or screw it all the way back so the spring winds up the most this bar will allow and lock it down there. I have mine half way because I want it soft for street driving. I thought I had more pics of these bars. I'll have to check the file and see if there are some better ones of the ends on it. I'm sure there are more pics but the file is on my other computer. Let's see.

 

[Raider L]

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Okay, I'm on my other computer so let me look at the file. Well, these are some pics of the traction bar before I rebuilt them. But you can see the eye end where you can do the adjusting of where you want it to move. in the first photo you see the eye good, and the second photo is the eye end bracket. And that's my good 'ol truck. '74 C10

 

[Raider L]

They look a hell of a lot better now that they've been repainted and have new bushings and everything. I guess I'll have to shoot some good pics of them so you can see what they look like now.