Searching for My Dad's 1979 Chevy Suburban

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TheHoundsman

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Brian
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1979
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Chevy Suburban
Engine Size
350 V8
Looks like I need to do some reading! I remember when this thread was first started and you were looking for the truck, and I haven’t happened upon it since.

You Tube can be a great resource. There is bad advice out there, so if something seems wonky, maybe cross reference with a trusted source.

Summit can be a great place to get parts from, especially if you get over the $100 mark for free shipping.
My normal process throughout this adventure has been ask what to do here and then go try and lean how to do it on YouTube. So far i think it has been working. Hopefully I don’t regret saying that out loud.
 

TheHoundsman

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Chevy Suburban
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350 V8
They also have great tech support.
I agree with that. Both Summit and ORD have been great when I need to get them on the phone for a question. The return process has been super helpful as well if I have accidently purchaed the wrong part.
 

edgephoto

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Make sure to clean the distributor where the module mounts and put the heat sink paste on the module. If you don't you will have a failure.

While you have it apart look at the pickup coil wiring. If there is oil inside your distributor the wires for the pickup will be oil soaked and the connector may be disintegrated too. If you find oil in your distributor you really should pull it and replace the seal.

Are you putting a new cap and rotor on while in there?
 

TheHoundsman

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Chevy Suburban
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350 V8
Make sure to clean the distributor where the module mounts and put the heat sink paste on the module. If you don't you will have a failure.

While you have it apart look at the pickup coil wiring. If there is oil inside your distributor the wires for the pickup will be oil soaked and the connector may be disintegrated too. If you find oil in your distributor you really should pull it and replace the seal.

Are you putting a new cap and rotor on while in there?
I will be completley honest with you I am goign to have to look up even something as simple sounding as “clean the distributor”. I am more than happy to give it a go I just simply don’t yet know how to. As for new cap and rotor i did not plan to but simply because I didn’t know that I should consider that. The few videos I watched about replacing the distributor talked about cylinder number 1 needing to be at “top dead center” and frankly that is greek to me and makes me very nervous. If I replace the (Cap and Rotor), do I need to be able to do that? Willing to learn, but I will need to figure that out.

I just watched something on it. It seems pretty straightforward as well. Kind of liek a couple more,“bolt on steps”. Does that sound right. If so I guess it would make sense to do that as well?
 
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Goldie Driver

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1980
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GMC K1500 Suburban
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350
If the original HEI ring is still the there - link to pic if it works here https://www.autozone.com/ignition-t...MIoZv8oJqkjQMVDRKtBh3ycSg8EAQYAiABEgLTiPD_BwE

is easy. The wires stay attached to the ring in the order they were in.

If not, mark number 1 wire (drivers side, 1st plug closest to the radiator) and take the old cap off and put the wires on the new one at a time. In case you get mixed up, the firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 with the odd numbers on the drivers side starting with 1 and the even numbers on the passenger side starting with 2.

The rotor is basic - pull off old, new fits only one way. The coil bokts down in to the new cap. Way easier than the front end work you just did.

:waytogo:
 

edgephoto

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On your truck the left side (driver's) cylinders are odd 1-3-5-7, the right side is even 2-4-6-8.

Small block firing order is what Goldie Driver said 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. In the order the distributor spins.

You do not need to get the engine at top dead center (TDC) to replace anything. Just leave the distributor installed and remove parts, make note of where the wires go and put them back in the same spot on the new cap. After you unbolt the module, use some brake cleaner on a rag to wipe off the old heat sink paste, apply the new stuff to the new module and bolt it is.

The coil is easy to put in when the cap is on the bench.

When removing the wires from spark plugs and distributor cap don't just yank them off. Wiggle them back and forth while pulling up. If you just rip them off you may, and most likely will, pull the terminal off the wire.

Some people will put masking tape numbers on the wires and remove the tape when done, some will use a sharpie, others just check each one to the cylinder. Do whatever is easiest. Don't worry, this is way simpler than what you just did.
 
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TheHoundsman

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1979
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Chevy Suburban
Engine Size
350 V8
If the original HEI ring is still the there - link to pic if it works here https://www.autozone.com/ignition-t...MIoZv8oJqkjQMVDRKtBh3ycSg8EAQYAiABEgLTiPD_BwE

is easy. The wires stay attached to the ring in the order they were in.

If not, mark number 1 wire (drivers side, 1st plug closest to the radiator) and take the old cap off and put the wires on the new one at a time. In case you get mixed up, the firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 with the odd numbers on the drivers side starting with 1 and the even numbers on the passenger side starting with 2.

The rotor is basic - pull off old, new fits only one way. The coil bokts down in to the new cap. Way easier than the front end work you just did.

:waytogo:
Thanks that is very helpful
 

TheHoundsman

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350 V8
Thank you again for the above information. The link worked. I had already made the purchase before I saw the post. It does not look like the kit I bought comes with the ring (some did). Do you think that is a part that I should order so I have it in case mine does not have it. I’m still working through what the job is and how to complete the install. I just don’t want to get into the job and not have what I need. As always thank you all.
 

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Goldie Driver

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Thank you again for the above information. The link worked. I had already made the purchase before I saw the post. It does not look like the kit I bought comes with the ring (some did). Do you think that is a part that I should order so I have it in case mine does not have it. I’m still working through what the job is and how to complete the install. I just don’t want to get into the job and not have what I need. As always thank you all.
It will be easy to see if that ring on your distributor now. If not, it is not necessary but sure makes life easier. It dies require OE style wire sets, however, as there is a nipple that plugs into the ring to hold the wires.

Link for a pic : https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-888836/make/gmc/model/k1500-suburban/year/1980

Pic from my truck when the cap was blue.
 

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HotWheelsBurban

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It will be easy to see if that ring on your distributor now. If not, it is not necessary but sure makes life easier. It dies require OE style wire sets, however, as there is a nipple that plugs into the ring to hold the wires.

Link for a pic : https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-888836/make/gmc/model/k1500-suburban/year/1980

Pic from my truck when the cap was blue.
When GM designed the HEI system, they thought that the voltage was so high that the plug wires might jump or be blown off the cap terminals. So the retainer ring was created and added to the system, and this is why the 90° boots on the distributor ends of the plug wires have those nipples on them(OEM style wires that is).
 

Sad Sack

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When GM designed the HEI system, they thought that the voltage was so high that the plug wires might jump or be blown off the cap terminals. So the retainer ring was created and added to the system, and this is why the 90° boots on the distributor ends of the plug wires have those nipples on them(OEM style wires that is).
Interesting piece of information! Always wondered why the PITA ring was used.
 

TheHoundsman

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Brian
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1979
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Chevy Suburban
Engine Size
350 V8

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