Rust repair - order of replacement

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vicnation

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On my 76 K10, I am prepping to replace various panels that were riddled with rust. I am not able to replace the cab so I will have to work with what I have. I have to do inner and outer cab corners, floor pans, inner and outer rocker panels, cab floor mounts (not the main supports), and kick panels. To keep the correct geometry for final alignment, what is the best order of replacement?

Any suggestions that will make the process easier?

Thanks...
 

Honky Kong jr

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With all that work needed I’d be getting some 1” square tube and bracing that cab so it doesn’t twist. Post up some pics of the carnage.
 

Crispy

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I assume you're doing the job yourself. Do you have a large enough work space to separate the cab from the chassis? If so I would build some sort of caster to elevate the project to a manageable level. Definitely some square tubing as mentioned above to maintain structural shape and rigidity while you hack and splice.

As for the order, I would go one section at a time that way you can use another existing panel for fitment and alignment. Keeping the cab straight is very important.
 

Honky Kong jr

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Do not remove the cab from the frame if your not gonna brace the cab. Because if you do and don’t I probably won’t fit once done. Again pics of what your working with would be helpful
 

Jrgunn5150

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On my 76 K10, I am prepping to replace various panels that were riddled with rust. I am not able to replace the cab so I will have to work with what I have. I have to do inner and outer cab corners, floor pans, inner and outer rocker panels, cab floor mounts (not the main supports), and kick panels. To keep the correct geometry for final alignment, what is the best order of replacement?

Any suggestions that will make the process easier?

Thanks...

Once you have everything out, it's Kickpanel, cab mount, inner rocker, floor pan, outer rocker. Bracing didn't work for me, since my stuff was likely already sunk down from the rust. I covered this poorly in some videos,

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vicnation

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Thanks. I'll get some pictures when I'm ready to begin. I do not plan to take the cab mounting bolts out while I'm working on these panels. I also plan to do one side at a time so I will leave one side intact when I begin the other side. One of the unknowns for me is how to set the outer cab corner with the other panels off. Is it enough to set the door in place and align it to the door? Also, does the cowl need to be removed to replace the kick panel?
 

Jrgunn5150

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Thanks. I'll get some pictures when I'm ready to begin. I do not plan to take the cab mounting bolts out while I'm working on these panels. I also plan to do one side at a time so I will leave one side intact when I begin the other side. One of the unknowns for me is how to set the outer cab corner with the other panels off. Is it enough to set the door in place and align it to the door? Also, does the cowl need to be removed to replace the kick panel?


I would recommend working from the outside in in test fitting.

Put your door on, line up the rocker and cab corner, screw it together, then figure out where the inners go.

You don't need to pull the cowl to do the kick panel.
 

Honky Kong jr

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Thanks. I'll get some pictures when I'm ready to begin. I do not plan to take the cab mounting bolts out while I'm working on these panels. I also plan to do one side at a time so I will leave one side intact when I begin the other side. One of the unknowns for me is how to set the outer cab corner with the other panels off. Is it enough to set the door in place and align it to the door? Also, does the cowl need to be removed to replace the kick panel?
It’s kind of a pita but you want to have the doors on to set up the outer rocker as far as gap so taking them on and off is nessesary. But you will end up with a much better result. There are quite a few on here that have documented there work @Jrgunn5150 @fmxr47 are 2 that come to mind right away I did not, my bed I did, but did do inner and outer rockers and believe me you will get tired of taking the doors on and off lol.
 

Jrgunn5150

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I had to jack my A pillar up to get my rocker to fit correctly lol.

But test fitting from the outside in is a must.
 

vicnation

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Thank you. I appreciate the advice.
 

fmxr47

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Mine was trial and error but all documented in my build thread for he most part, doors will be on and off many times!

Also for sure line up your outer rockers after you remove the corners and line up to the door bottom for a good gap!

Good luck with a good set of cab corners, the ones I got from summit didn’t line up worth a damn. There were other options though, I did it as cheap as I could and paid the price in fitment. Also don’t buy inner rockers! You need the outer floor panel, it’s in my thread also, Inner rockers are a poorly stamped patch panel that I found no use for and returned them.


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Jrgunn5150

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. Also don’t buy inner rockers! You need the outer floor panel, it’s in my thread also, Inner rockers are a poorly stamped patch panel that I found no use for and returned them.


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Yes! The "inner rocker" is garbage, the outer floor panel covers the area under the seat and all the way from the cab corner to the floor support.
 

Honky Kong jr

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I used mine, inner rockers that is, I didn’t have an issue I used Goodmark it’s all from Tiawan unless you get the super ****** Chinese stuff......which I don’t advise
 

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I found no use for the second one, is that what you used?


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I found no use for the second one, is that what you used?


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I used the first one on both sides
 

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