Roof Panel Replacement

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legopnuematic

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Yeah certain stampings definitely are tricky, lots of stresses from stamping and then different ones from damage. That’s why I didn’t mess with the 79s that far, I knew it would not end up better.

I think the new skin would be the best route. If you were to delete the rear seam that would eliminate the need for the welding on the inside of the skin.

If you were closer to Missouri I, like Andy would be willing to help with this. That or loader up and truck it down here.
 

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Yeah certain stampings definitely are tricky, lots of stresses from stamping and then different ones from damage. That’s why I didn’t mess with the 79s that far, I knew it would not end up better.

I think the new skin would be the best route. If you were to delete the rear seam that would eliminate the need for the welding on the inside of the skin.

If you were closer to Missouri I, like Andy would be willing to help with this. That or loader up and truck it down here.
Its not just a flat roof either.....has alot of contour front to back and side to side. How guys do what they do when they do fix them....is beyond my pay grade. My left fender has a slight dent right at the side marker - someone had run into something with the side of the bumper and pushed it into the fender. Not bad but alot of contour there also - if I get that far I hope to find a stock clean fender to replace it with.

Wife and I been wanting to move to the Bull Shoals for years. I better have the thing done or gone by the time we do. lol
 

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Its not just a flat roof either.....has alot of contour front to back and side to side. How guys do what they do when they do fix them....is beyond my pay grade. My left fender has a slight dent right at the side marker - someone had run into something with the side of the bumper and pushed it into the fender. Not bad but alot of contour there also - if I get that far I hope to find a stock clean fender to replace it with.

Wife and I been wanting to move to the Bull Shoals for years. I better have the thing done or gone by the time we do. lol

The contours in both directions actually make things a lot easier, compared to straightening a completely flat panel.
 

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Its not just a flat roof either.....has alot of contour front to back and side to side. How guys do what they do when they do fix them....is beyond my pay grade. My left fender has a slight dent right at the side marker - someone had run into something with the side of the bumper and pushed it into the fender. Not bad but alot of contour there also - if I get that far I hope to find a stock clean fender to replace it with.

Wife and I been wanting to move to the Bull Shoals for years. I better have the thing done or gone by the time we do. lol
If you’re not fixing a small dent in an otherwise clean OE fender, I now understand your extreme apprehension about the roof.
Sounds like you’re at another major decision point in the build.
 

legopnuematic

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The contours in both directions actually make things a lot easier, compared to straightening a completely flat panel.
100% way more fudge factor with a crowned or curved panel than a flat one.
 

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If that fender was dented in any other place, it'd be an easy fix - but its right in the middle of a multi-contoured part of it. Will I try? Sure. But if the corner marker doesn't mount flush, or it doesn't look perfect, I'll find another. There were dents and holes on the cab (doors and bed) too and they're gone.

Has anyone ever used one of these? Looks like it'd work pretty good for reattaching a panel. ?!
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It's all about access. They work.
 

legopnuematic

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First and last time I used a resistance spot welder was high school metal shop, making sheet metal trays from 24(?) gauge steel.

I’m curious though, because that would not only be faster than doing plug welds with a MIG or Tig setup, but also how the OE did it.

I’ve seen old Lenco Panel spotters show up for sale on occasion, but looking at the manual it says it can do 20 gauge to an unlimited thickness backer? Maybe that is just conservative, but if that’s all it can do that is troublesome as I make my patches from 18ga, and most oe metal and good patch panels should be about 19 gauge.
 

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It's all about access. They work.
I saw a couple vids of guys fixing rusted roofs (cab lights) who said they "couldn't" use a spot welder. Then I noticed.....they both still had the windshield in. It would be cheaper than a local and I'd have a tool to keep.

This solution almost seems too easy. LMAO
 

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If that fender was dented in any other place, it'd be an easy fix - but its right in the middle of a multi-contoured part of it. Will I try? Sure. But if the corner marker doesn't mount flush, or it doesn't look perfect, I'll find another. There were dents and holes on the cab (doors and bed) too and they're gone.

Has anyone ever used one of these? Looks like it'd work pretty good for reattaching a panel. ?!
You must be registered for see images attach

I have one - it works pretty well as long as everything is nice and clean, but its also pretty low powered and makes fairly small spot welds compared to the factory ones. As long as you can get to the upper and lower surfaces easily it does work, but the "arms" are pretty short.

The electrodes will wear down with repeated use and HF does not have replacement ones available, I'm still trying to find some myself.
 

legopnuematic

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Ricko1966

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I saw a couple vids of guys fixing rusted roofs (cab lights) who said they "couldn't" use a spot welder. Then I noticed.....they both still had the windshield in. It would be cheaper than a local and I'd have a tool to keep.

This solution almost seems too easy. LMAO
I'm very interested in how that spot welder works. On a different note,back to your fender. Our very first project in autobody the instructor would put a dent in a fender and teach you to work it out. This would require removing the fender,we actually had long files with handles looked a lot like a door plane. You could use a long sanding board with 36 Grit. Anyway you work the dent from the back side with light blows with a nail set. Starting from the last place bent working towards the first place bent use your long board every now and then and see where it is scratching,nail set and hammer from the back side again.
 

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I saw a couple vids of guys fixing rusted roofs (cab lights) who said they "couldn't" use a spot welder. Then I noticed.....they both still had the windshield in. It would be cheaper than a local and I'd have a tool to keep.

This solution almost seems too easy. LMAO
Having something like these to clamp your seams for spot welding would help.

 

Doppleganger

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I'm very interested in how that spot welder works. On a different note,back to your fender. Our very first project in autobody the instructor would put a dent in a fender and teach you to work it out. This would require removing the fender,we actually had long files with handles looked a lot like a door plane. You could use a long sanding board with 36 Grit. Anyway you work the dent from the back side with light blows with a nail set. Starting from the last place bent working towards the first place bent use your long board every now and then and see where it is scratching,nail set and hammer from the back side again.
This is the area on the fender. The bumper straightened out no problem.
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Doppleganger

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@YakkoWarner is yours a 120v or 240v variant?
I wondered how much of a difference it would make. The 110 is rated for up to 1/8" thick. The 240 is rated for up to 3/8" thick. The 110 is $10 more than the 240. lol

Only complaints I have heard is the rods are short - but longer ones can be fabbed (many do it). And, the power cords are too short.....like 6ft max?
 

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