Rebuilt motor brought truck in for exhaust work died on the way home...

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chengny

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Pull your plugs and roll the engine over by hand with a 5/8" socket on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer bolt.

The results can be interpreted 2 ways:

1. If it can be rolled over easily using a long handled ratchet on the crank pulley bolt, you may have dodged a bullet. But this test is not a sure thing - rolling the engine slowly by hand does not duplicate what really happens while cranking/starting. In other words, if it rolls over it's not definitely damaged, but it's also not definitely undamaged.

2. If it can't be rolled over by hand (with the plugs out) or while rolling it there are spots where you encounter more resistance than elsewhere - the engine is definitely damaged.

At least drain the oil into a clean container and inspect it for the presence of metallic flakes.

If all seems well, retard the timing (rotate the distributor CW) a good bit and try to start it.
In answer to your question; as Mr. HRPC says, overly advanced timing will very often cause slow cranking and hard starts (more so when hot) due to kickback.

Leave it retarded enough for easy starts until you get this sorted out.


All else aside, if you get lucky and find that the bearings are not shot - what you NEED to determine is what caused the loss of oil. Also, what made your engine die out suddenly.
 

TJ79Cheyenne

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Pull your plugs and roll the engine over by hand with a 5/8" socket on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer bolt.

The results can be interpreted 2 ways:

1. If it can be rolled over easily using a long handled ratchet on the crank pulley bolt, you may have dodged a bullet. But this test is not a sure thing - rolling the engine slowly by hand does not duplicate what really happens while cranking/starting. In other words, if it rolls over it's not definitely damaged, but it's also not definitely undamaged.

2. If it can't be rolled over by hand (with the plugs out) or while rolling it there are spots where you encounter more resistance than elsewhere - the engine is definitely damaged.

At least drain the oil into a clean container and inspect it for the presence of metallic flakes.

If all seems well, retard the timing (rotate the distributor CW) a good bit and try to start it.
In answer to your question; as Mr. HRPC says, overly advanced timing will very often cause slow cranking and hard starts (more so when hot) due to kickback.

Leave it retarded enough for easy starts until you get this sorted out.


All else aside, if you get lucky and find that the bearings are not shot - what you NEED to determine is what caused the loss of oil. Also, what made your engine die out suddenly.

I'm hoping to figure out what caused the loss of oil soon! If it wasn't -18 out with a -40 windchill I'd be out trying to figure it out right now. As far as the engine dying I am now starting to think that was the battery taking a dump finally. Brought that battery in (was 800 ccas when new) test showed 540 cca at 33 degrees. Anyways I'm prayin for spring to come early. damn cold
 

TJ79Cheyenne

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Ok so me and my buddy had it running last week. Good sign there. No knocking around the bottom end. Should mean all the internals are still in decent shape. The oil's leakin from the back of the intake manifold where it mates to the block somehow.. Also got the timing set dead on. Still cranking over slowly... So either theres a bad ground somewhere or the reman'd starter got fried already. My buddy noticed that the starter gear was engaged without a battery hooked up. I'm leanin towards the starter. Just gotta tear the mani off n redo the rtv job n she should be all good!
 
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89Suburban

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Also make sure the base gasket on the distributor is good. Should come with a new on in the intake kit.
 

HotRodPC

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You might need to shim that starter so that it can engage and disengage properly. If it's to tight to the block, then it'll engage the gear and get hung up in the flywheel, and then it's being spun the whole time the motor is running. They sell the shims in the Help section of any discount auto parts store.
 

TJ79Cheyenne

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True HotRod, I just figured that since the original starter wasn't shimmed I wouldn't have to shim this new one. I kinda figured it got cooked since I'm running headers on the truck now. Thinkin of upgrading to a high torque starter n see if that fixes my problem. The new distributor i sunk in came with a new gasket.
 

TJ79Cheyenne

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OK HotRod, got an update for ya... got the intake mani sealed up good awhile ago. I have noticed a knock in the lower end of the motor since then. I've noticed a knock in the lower end since then but it is not getting any worse... Since doing the manifold I did an oil change with some 10w-30 and the knock didnt clear up... there were some metallic flaking in the old oil and I kind of figured that was usual with a freshly rebuilt motor. She wants to stall and die when I'm barely into the throttle so I'm thinking timing needs to be set AGAIN... Shoulda thrown the carb'd motor in it that I picked up...
 

TJ79Cheyenne

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Video of my 5.7

You can hear the "knock" slightly. This is after it was warmed up to operating temp.
 

chengny

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It's hard to tell from just that clip but... it sounds like you have a bad con rod bearing (s).
 

bobkyle2

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What distributors did you buy??? Ebay skip whites?


That knocking sorta sounds like a torque convertor
 

350runner

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X2 kinda sounds like a cracked flywheel

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

TJ79Cheyenne

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Hahaha no i bought the distributor from advance auto parts!! I'll have to check the flywheel/torque converter bolts today but it definitely sounds like it's inside the oil pan so I'm leaning towards rod bearing... Can you do one of those with the motor in the truck?? I'd rather not have to pull it again and put it on a stand.
 

bobkyle2

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If you just rebuilt it, And its already ate a rod bearing. Its going to need to be pulled apart, and that rod and crank will have to be inspected and measured.
 

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