Rear drum to disk brake swap

[RoryH19]

Hello,

I've been looking at disk brake conversions with and without e-brake on the calipers.

I recently looked at a rear diff from an early 2000's Chevy truck.
They have disk brakes with a brake shoe on the inside of the rotor to be the parking brake.

Before I buy the axle and test my theory of unbolting the drum brakes from my 6 lug 14b SF (1994 axle) and bolting the disk brake setup from the 2000's on has anyone tried this?
Is it possible?

Thanks.

 

[Rick Dobbins]

Hi Rory, I did the rear brake conversion. Absolutely a MUST. Really helped my truck! I got the kit from LugNut 4X4 and it was pretty easy. Now, I DID NOT spring for the E-brake calipers, and I wish I did now, but it's not a deal breaker. If I'm on my driveway, I use a tool you can buy (Matco) that compresses the brake pedal while I put chocks under the tires, then I take the tool off, put it in N, roll fwd into the chocks and then put it in Park. Hassle? Naw, I avoided the hassle of connecting the E-brake calipers to my stock E-brake setup cuz it looked like allot of work. I may be wrong on that. But 95% of the time I'm parking on level ground. I retained the original master cylinder and rear steel brake lines and the only hassle I had was bleeding the brakes by myself. The TRICK is to have a cheapo vacuum pump bleeder, and put GREASE all around the loose bleed screw before you start to pump. That way, no bubbles sneak by the threads of the bleed screw. Any questions please feel free to ask me. Oh, I had to install dual rear wheel lug studs. A little longer.
And I have a Harbor Freight press that was REALLY useful!

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[RoryH19]

Hi Rory, I did the rear brake conversion. Absolutely a MUST. Really helped my truck! I got the kit from LugNut 4X4 and it was pretty easy. Now, I DID NOT spring for the E-brake calipers, and I wish I did now, but it's not a deal breaker. If I'm on my driveway, I use a tool you can buy (Matco) that compresses the brake pedal while I put chocks under the tires, then I take the tool off, put it in N, roll fwd into the chocks and then put it in Park. Hassle? Naw, I avoided the hassle of connecting the E-brake calipers to my stock E-brake setup cuz it looked like allot of work. I may be wrong on that. But 95% of the time I'm parking on level ground. I retained the original master cylinder and rear steel brake lines and the only hassle I had was bleeding the brakes by myself. The TRICK is to have a cheapo vacuum pump bleeder, and put GREASE all around the loose bleed screw before you start to pump. That way, no bubbles sneak by the threads of the bleed screw. Any questions please feel free to ask me. Oh, I had to install dual rear wheel lug studs. A little longer.
And I have a Harbor Freight press that was REALLY useful!

You must be registered for see images attach

Thanks.
I do like the thought of having rotors all the way around. Much easier to maintain. I have to replace all of the brake hardware for my 14b SF so now is the time to convert. Did you also keep the same proportion valve? I have one of the pneumatic bleeders and it works pretty well.
I see you have a 14bFF. Assume you are stopping something heavy? At least heavier than my k5.
I would have to have the e-brake calipers or a trans parking brake.

 

[TubeTruck]

This is for an np205 but companies make them for many transmissions or transfer cases.

http://www.northwestfab.com/NP205-Park-Brake-Kit_p_3208.html

 

[Rick Dobbins]

Thanks.
I do like the thought of having rotors all the way around. Much easier to maintain. I have to replace all of the brake hardware for my 14b SF so now is the time to convert. Did you also keep the same proportion valve? I have one of the pneumatic bleeders and it works pretty well.
I see you have a 14bFF. Assume you are stopping something heavy? At least heavier than my k5.
I would have to have the e-brake calipers or a trans parking brake.

Yes, I kept the same proportioning valve. Seem to work fine! As far as weight, it has a Lance camper on it. A 1984 400. Hardly ever used, which is awesome, but it's one heavy son of a gun. The 13" drums fade (as all drum brakes do) so I knew I needed the rear discs from Day One. And I'm also pulling a 10' trailer with a Rzr 800, so I need all the stopping power I can get!

 

[Frankenchevy]

It’s thought that a disc/disc prop valve is needed for the conversion. Disc/drum prop valves are said to hold pressure on the rear circuit because drum brakes require residual pressure and this is thought to keep the discs slightly engauged possibly causing the rear discs to warp.

Rick hasn’t found this to be problematic and nor did I prior to swapping my prop valve. I’m sure there are other reasons behind utilizing the proper valve, but they may not be immediately apparent. The load sensing valve should be deleted if equipped according to GM.

For what it’s worth, the correct prop valve is cheap; about $50 from summit.

 

[RoryH19]

I replaced my prop valve earlier this year but I can do it again.
Do you know the part number from summit?