Power Windows / Blower Motor

[HotRodPC]

I think this might be a Retro help, or maybe Bucket.

On my 85 K1500 that I bought for $500. The power window switches were taken out, and the ends were cut off the wires to the power windows. This tells me the idiot had a problem and they didn't work and he tried to fix them. Also, my blower motor for the heat and air does not work and the heater core is disconnected.

I intend to pull the power window OEM wiring out of the 85K10 and putting it in my doors and the switches too since I am going to be scrapping the 85K10 cab.
I am about certain, I seen somewhere that the Power Windows and the Blower motor are sorta incahoots. Does this mean they are on the same circuit and I have a problem on this circuit? I've checked all fuses, and all are good. Everything else in the truck but the cig lighter works, and I haven't played with that, assuming I'll connect a wire and fix it.

I wish to hell I could find where I seen that article and read about the troubleshooting, but I've looked high and low. Anyone has any tips or past experiences lemme know.

I know I can trace it down, I'm just hoping someone else has had the same problem and can tell me exactly where to go and what to do about it. Thanks

 

[bucket]

Check the breaker(s) in the fuse box? Check the fusible links under the hood?

I'd start be checking out the blower wiring since there is less of it and likely a little easier to get to. Just trace the wiring back to the power source.

 

[bucket]

Oh yeah, jump power to the blower motor and see if it actually works.

And the only reason you think there's a problem with the power windows is because the switches are cut off? Who knows why PO's do some things. Wire in new switches (you'll need to do that anyway) and see if they work.

 

[HotRodPC]

I intended to do all that so far, with exception of breakers and fusbile links. Really? You think there will be fusbile links for PW? I was hoping there was some magic trick before I started transfering all the window harnesses from the other trucks etc.

Hopefully next weeked I can start on it. This weekend I am moving my parts around to please the city pricks and the ***** neighbor. Gonna take my portable stereo outside with me and blare it while I work out there. I wish my ATV wasn't at my dads, it would be a big ehlp moving this stuff, and I could pull the restonator and make lots of noise.

 

[bucket]

Who knows what could have happened. Someone could have shorted one of the power wires going into the cab.

I'm sure it's easier to fix the problem than replace the whole harness.

 

[HotRodPC]

Who knows what could have happened. Someone could have shorted one of the power wires going into the cab.

I'm sure it's easier to fix the problem than replace the whole harness.

Probably so, I"m just taking the harness out of the donor doors and plugging it into the harness that's there already. Not replacing the whole harness. I just don't want some jerry rigged looking **** where I cut the ends off the donor and use solderless connectors to attach to the snipped wires in my doors. I like **** to look neat, right and clean even though I can't see it. I'd know it's that way and would hate it. Just better to suffer the labor and know it's all back to OEM the right way.

 

[89Suburban]

Probably so, I"m just taking the harness out of the donor doors and plugging it into the harness that's there already. Not replacing the whole harness. I just don't want some jerry rigged looking **** where I cut the ends off the donor and use solderless connectors to attach to the snipped wires in my doors. I like **** to look neat, right and clean even though I can't see it. I'd know it's that way and would hate it. Just better to suffer the labor and know it's all back to OEM the right way.

You got wiring diagrams?

 

[HotRodPC]

Nope, Gonna wing it. It should just be plug and play to remove the door harnesses to the cab and hook all that up first. Then once I get that done, IF THEY DON"T WORK, then I'll start troubleshooting from there. I'll get it. Just thought someone might know of a magic sweet spot that I need to look at. As stated, I'm almost certain the power windows and blower motor had something in common. If this is the case, if I fix one of the 2, then I likely fixed both IF THIS IS TRUE.

 

[bucket]

Hey Dave, did you check the fusible links and breakers yet?



Are you sure the door harnesses can separate from the main harness? GM didn't do that very often.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

The blower motor and PW/PL are on two different circuits...

 

[HotRodPC]

Hey Dave, did you check the fusible links and breakers yet?



Are you sure the door harnesses can separate from the main harness? GM didn't do that very often.

What fusible links Dave? Where can I get that tool that does that???


Yes, they seperate. I've done found that out. The harness to each door comes out of the door about a foot to 18 inches. Then goes thru the rubber bellow in the door jamb into the kick panel, then over the panel to under the dash and has a plug on the end of it where it plugs into the harness under the dash. GM DID know what they were doing. Just had to pull the dash pad to get to the plugs where they join.

 

[89Suburban]

What fusible links Dave? Where can I get that tool that does that???


Yes, they seperate. I've done found that out. The harness to each door comes out of the door about a foot to 18 inches. Then goes thru the rubber bellow in the door jamb into the kick panel, then over the panel to under the dash and has a plug on the end of it where it plugs into the harness under the dash. GM DID know what they were doing. Just had to pull the dash pad to get to the plugs where they join.

Please throw up some pics if you can. I am interested to see that and learn.

 

[HotRodPC]

10 FO Buddy. So you want some pics of the location of where the door wiring harnesses meet up and plug into the main underdash harness? This makes it easy to remove a door. First thing you have to do is remove the dashpad to be able to get the plugs, or maybe you don't have to remove the dash pad, but I did so that I could locate them and follow the wires. I was happy to see they plug in and seperate.
So unplug those wires, push the wires thru the kick panel, disconnect the rubber boot from the door or the door jamb, then pull the wires thru the boot or leave the boot attatched to the door, then you can pull the doors off and leave all the wiring in tact inside the door. GM

 

[foamypirate]

10 FO Buddy. So you want some pics of the location of where the door wiring harnesses meet up and plug into the main underdash harness? This makes it easy to remove a door. First thing you have to do is remove the dashpad to be able to get the plugs, or maybe you don't have to remove the dash pad, but I did so that I could locate them and follow the wires. I was happy to see they plug in and seperate.
So unplug those wires, push the wires thru the kick panel, disconnect the rubber boot from the door or the door jamb, then pull the wires thru the boot or leave the boot attatched to the door, then you can pull the doors off and leave all the wiring in tact inside the door. GM

Good info here! I was wanting to pull the doors off of my cab pretty soon.

 

[HotRodPC]

Here are some pics of the power window/locks door wiring harness, it's routing and where they connect under the dash to the main interior harness.


This is how I got the truck. Crappy paint job on the door panels, window switches removed and the connector to the switch cut off with spades crimped on. DUHHH, I can fix it !!! Deeta Dee !!!

Here is where the wiring harness goes thru the boot between the door and the cab, then the grommet to get thru the kickpanel and under the dash.

And this is where the passenger side door harness connects to the cab wiring harness under the dash behind the glove box.

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