Power REAR WINDOW, Suburban Tailgate & Blazer Troubleshooting

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bucket

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Is there really any left?

Good sense, or safety switches? Lol.

The safety switch has still been functioning on my last couple Burbs.
 

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Good sense.
 

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I was having the same issues with my rear window. I put in a jumper to cancel out that rear safety switch and replaced the electrical connections on the lock cylinder and mine started working again.

Same thing here. My son pulled it out (on '88, located on left, upper edge, inside tailgate...get that?), cleaned the terminals, reinstalled and window works great again!
 

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Ok now I think I screwed the pooch. I got in the back, got the inner panels off, and it has a regulator, no cable. The p.o. had the ground cable twisted around the bar that goes from the regulator to the window 'cradle" I got it straightened out and out of the way, and asked my helper to try the key switch. Window went down, now its all the way down and wont go back up. Also I cant get the door unlocked, so now Im looking at all the mechanicals, and wiring, through the window and no way to get at anything..... Suggestions?
 

havaduner

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By the way, I keep saying this Sub is an 82, its really an 87 if that matters
 

bucket

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Ok now I think I screwed the pooch. I got in the back, got the inner panels off, and it has a regulator, no cable. The p.o. had the ground cable twisted around the bar that goes from the regulator to the window 'cradle" I got it straightened out and out of the way, and asked my helper to try the key switch. Window went down, now its all the way down and wont go back up. Also I cant get the door unlocked, so now Im looking at all the mechanicals, and wiring, through the window and no way to get at anything..... Suggestions?

Burbs don't use a cable, that's K5 stuff. Bypass the safety switch by putting a jumper wire in the connector, the window will likely go up when you run the switch.
 

havaduner

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So I;ve got a question, bypassed what I thought was the safety switch, turns out it was the dome light switch. So I see another switch inside the door frame, and I can manipulate it and if doesnt feel like it works correctly anymore, but how do I get to it? I can see anyway to get this door more dissassembeled than it is, but there has to be a way?
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havaduner

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So I am a persistant guy, I manipulated the safety switch to where I could get the window up, so I feel like I accomplished something, but I still need to replace or entirely remove and bypass the switch. I think I'll also lube the everything in there, and maybe replace the motor, but I am still really curious how to get in their to get at some of this stuff. For now, I'm going to kick back and enjoy the evening with copious amounts of Jack Daniels!
 

bucket

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With the window rolled up, you can reach inside the tailgate to unplug the safety switch. You can then install a simple jumper wire into the connector. You just need a short length of heavy wire and a couple spade terminals. Or cut the plug off and wire the two wires to each other.
 

86suburban

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So I am a persistant guy, I manipulated the safety switch to where I could get the window up, so I feel like I accomplished something, but I still need to replace or entirely remove and bypass the switch. I think I'll also lube the everything in there, and maybe replace the motor, but I am still really curious how to get in their to get at some of this stuff. For now, I'm going to kick back and enjoy the evening with copious amounts of Jack Daniels!

If you end up taking everything apart and replacing tons more crap than you planned like I did, I used this window channel felt. I bought like 3 other kinds that didn't work before I found this. Mine had pretty much disintegrated from age.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Glass-Run-Channel,47812.html
 

rpcraft

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I've been cracking away on my K5 tailgate and am starting to realize that GM has a direct drive motor on the burn tailgates and I can't help but wonder why they didn't do that on the K5's? Does anyone know offhand? I'm about to adapt a front power motor to the setup on my K5 and the only problem I am really having this moment is figuring how to wire it up, since the power window motors use an ungrounded reversable setup. I'm just curious if maybe its the thickness of the motor is why you can't swap in the suburban motor perhaps?
 

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rpcraft

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yeah i know the wiring diagram and the wiring inside the tailgate better than most but that doesn't tell me how to convert from a grounded setup to a reverse polarity switch but thanks though.

It's more a custom thing, not included on the wiring diagram, because the original motor uses a ground and 2 positives to switch directions, unlike the window motors. All the info I find regarding a switch is useful but the part using the relay is not as useful because they seem to not provision for when the motor needs to turn off.
 

bucket

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Ok, I think I'm getting a handle on what you want to do. The main goal is express up and down with relays. Which would be easier to do with the reverse polarity type motor. Which would probably install easier into a Suburban window regulator. But you don't know if it will fit. Do I have that right? Or do you simply want to do away with the big clunky original window motor?
 

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I'm not interested in the suburban regualtor itself, mostly just the motor and figuring out why Gm didn't (or maybe couldn't use it on the K5 regulator. It would be the easiest solution since it uses the same wiring as the K5 setup. It is attached directly to the gear drive on the regulator instead of using a cable like in the K5. I am pretty sure though it's because the width of the motor would impact the K5 regulator arm and glass due to the difference in the path of travel on the K5 tailgate.

As far as wiring goes I was looking at the idea of using a dpdt relay but since learned the issue with doing that is a relay like that is either on when it has power or off when it doesn't and the use of a switch simply changes the direction. In essense like you mentioned you just use 2 relays to create the polarity flip and change the motor direction and the ultimate goal is to get rid of the OEM style motor because they are not very strong, even with a larger gauge wire, and the newer replacement motors you can get are expensive and aside from being weak seem to not last long either before they get a ton of rust accumulation inside that kills them.
 

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