New H1 24 bolt wheels for the K5

[nvrenuf]

The 2 pc magnesium inserts were used on the 8 bolt wheels. I'm not sure but either with the introduction of the 12 bolt wheel or at least during production they changed to 1 pc rubber.

You do have to be careful about cutting the mag inserts as it's flammable and extrememly difficult to extinguish. Obviously a cutting torch is out but the common way to cut them is to use a sawzall with a wood cutting blade. Once cut, use a grinder with a flap disc to sand and smooth out the sharp corners and whatnot. This is the way I did mine, it took about 1.5 hrs to do 5 wheels.

I think you can cut the rubber style down the same way but I've never done it.

 

[heavyleft]

Unless the new 24 bolt wheels are different, this is not correct.

On the 8 & 12 bolt wheels, the bolts around the perimeter are holding the two parts of the rim shell together but by themselves they do not provide any beadlocking function. The runflat insert is almost as wide as the rim except for a small gap at each side, once assembled both the inner and outer tire beads are pinched between the runflat and rim lip.

The whole point of running H1 wheels of any kind is the benefit of the beadlock. Imo, they are not worth using without the beadlock feature - it's like buying a Corvette with a V6, all of the looks and none of the performance. One option to lighten the inserts is to cut them down almost level with the wheel (still a beadlock but no runflat feature) or you can buy PVC beadlock inserts from several vendors.

No the military never intended for them to be used by the civilian world but then again GM never intended for these trucks to be lifted and run larger than 31" tires.

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It's possible to run the stock H1 wheels on standard SRW axles but you'll need 2" spacers to get the track width back close to stock.

Another option is dually axles but you'll have to swap to a D60 front as there were no factory dually D44's. Dually axles allow you to run the wheels without any spacers and be at stock track width.

The 24 bolt two piece is bead locked by that front portion and the run flat, like you said, pinches the rear bead portion double bead locking the tire. Take it apart and have a look.

 

[nvrenuf]

So you're saying the outer tire bead is trapped between the 2 pieces of the rim or the outer rim lip and the runflat (like an 8 bolt)?

 

[Craig794x4]

i work at a tire shop we balanced some just like them last week and i wouldnt waste the money but they are awesome

 

[Lethermon]

So you think I wasted my money by buying these?

 

[Lethermon]

ok so before i go through with ordering spacers , what size will i need front and rear. The wheels have a 7 in BS. and im going to be running a d44 front and 14bt rear?

 

[bucket]

How wide are the rims? You're going to want at least a 3 inch spacer, probably closer to 4 inch.

 

[nvrenuf]

How wide are the rims? You're going to want at least a 3 inch spacer, probably closer to 4 inch.

Assuming the 24 bolt wheels are like the 8 & 12's they should be 8.25" wide.

There's a guy on CK5 running 2" spacers front & rear and it looks really good.

Honestly, I think you're going to have problems with the smaller wheel bearings on the D44. The spacers and heavy wheel offset are going to be a lot of leverage on that front end.

 

[bucket]

Assuming the 24 bolt wheels are like the 8 & 12's they should be 8.25" wide.

There's a guy on CK5 running 2" spacers front & rear and it looks really good.

Honestly, I think you're going to have problems with the smaller wheel bearings on the D44. The spacers and heavy wheel offset are going to be a lot of leverage on that front end.

Really though, the spacers won't create leverage if they are used to keep the track width the same as stock. Now, the heavy wheel and tire on the other hand...

 

[nvrenuf]

There's a reason GM never made a factory dually front D44.