Need TH-350 shift linkage suggestions

[MikeB]

So I just installed a 350 and TH350 in my 82 C10. Also have a rebuilt auto trans steering column.

I assumed I'd be able to use a Lokar shift linkage kit with a straight rod and heim joints on the ends. However, the bottom of the firewall makes using a straight rod impossible.

Other than a very expensive cable setup, or overpriced worn-out stock linkage, do you have any suggestions?

 

[chengny]

Where is your stock linkage worn out? Please provide images as the nomenclature associated with these parts is not well known and vague.

 

[MadOgre]

LMC sells a retro fit linkage

 

[MikeB]

I just bought a Lokar kit a local hot rod store -- Sachse Rod Shop in Sachse, TX. The guys there said they bend them more times than not. It's a pretty stout rod. Also got a Lokar throttle cable and bracket to go with a Lokar kickdown cable I've laying around had for years. Best looking parts of my truck will be under the hood!

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[MikeB]

Where is your stock linkage worn out? Please provide images as the nomenclature associated with these parts is not well known and vague.

My truck had a manual trans, so I'm starting from scratch.

 

[chengny]

There is only one part (other than the rods and bushings) that is needed to install the gear selector linkage for an automatic transmission - a bracket that provides a pivot point and end support for the "detent cross rod". It is bolted to the top flange of the LH frame rail:

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Look at your rail, it might even be there on trucks that came from the factory with a manual transmission.

Unless you have your heart set on that aftermarket contraption, it might be worth a trip to the junkyard to pull a stock linkage set-up. The required bushings (new) are easy to find and cheap.

 

[MikeB]

Thanks for the info and picture. You're probably right about the frame holes for that bracket.

The problem with junkyard parts is the metal-to-metal points are typically worn and you end up with a lot of slop. At my nearest junkyard there are only 4 square bodies, which are pretty much picked clean and sitting on the ground, which has been very muddy for the past few weeks after all our rain.

Back in 89 when I bought my 69 pickup, I was able to get all those parts new (similar to 73-87) from a Chevy dealer. I'll bet those days are gone!

I already have an issue with my Lokar kit, but I will resolve it by using a spherical rod end with a greater deflection angle. With essentially zero slop in the linkage, shifting should be better than new.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yes, the holes are already punched in all the frames. If you've already replaced the column with an Auto Trans Column, you're good to go. It will be so much easier just to bolt in the factory OEM linkage.

It would take me some heavy duty thinking and looking around, but I'm 99.9% positive I have all the parts you'd need. Do you have a local Do It Yourself, U Pull it Yard? I bet you could get it all for about $10-$15 from a Pull A Part type yard. It's very easy to pull and install. If it took you over 15 minutes to pull what you needed, you probably shouldn't have any tools. (Not saying your stupid, saying it's that easy)

 

[MadOgre]

Thanks for the info and picture. You're probably right about the frame holes for that bracket.

The problem with junkyard parts is the metal-to-metal points are typically worn and you end up with a lot of slop. At my nearest junkyard there are only 4 square bodies, which are pretty much picked clean and sitting on the ground, which has been very muddy for the past few weeks after all our rain.

Back in 89 when I bought my 69 pickup, I was able to get all those parts new (similar to 73-87) from a Chevy dealer. I'll bet those days are gone!

I already have an issue with my Lokar kit, but I will resolve it by using a spherical rod end with a greater deflection angle. With essentially zero slop in the linkage, shifting should be better than new.

That's the problem with that Lokar stuff. It looks really shiny. But from a reliability functional standpoint the stuff is no good. I don't know how many times I looked at that Lokar stuff and then thought about how well it would hold up and then every time had to pass because its just not designed very well. But it is shiny! I guess that's what sells these days lol

 

[MikeB]

That's the problem with that Lokar stuff. It looks really shiny. But from a reliability functional standpoint the stuff is no good.

I'm into function more than shiny, but I disagree with you about Lokar. I have used a variety of their products over the past 15 years, and have been very happy with the fit, quality of hardware, and detailed instructions. That's why I bought this kit instead of CPP's. And for a lot of their stuff, you can buy the compete kits or individual parts.

Regarding my current issue, I just got a call (yes, an actual phone call!) from a guy at Lokar responding to an e-mail I sent them a few hours ago. He said he wants pictures and WILL resolve the problem. Guess we'll see what happens.

 

[HotRodPC]

Thanks for the info and picture. You're probably right about the frame holes for that bracket.

The problem with junkyard parts is the metal-to-metal points are typically worn and you end up with a lot of slop. At my nearest junkyard there are only 4 square bodies, which are pretty much picked clean and sitting on the ground, which has been very muddy for the past few weeks after all our rain.

Back in 89 when I bought my 69 pickup, I was able to get all those parts new (similar to 73-87) from a Chevy dealer. I'll bet those days are gone!

I already have an issue with my Lokar kit, but I will resolve it by using a spherical rod end with a greater deflection angle. With essentially zero slop in the linkage, shifting should be better than new.

I'd have to disagree with you on the metal to metal points being worn out on the squarebody type auto trans linkage. There is a poly bushing that keep that from happening as well as a spring the holds the linkage tight. Also a poly bushing to where it connects to the column. If there is any wear, it'll be in the steering column itself.

 

[chengny]

I'd have to disagree with you on the metal to metal points being worn out on the squarebody type auto trans linkage. There is a poly bushing that keep that from happening as well as a spring the holds the linkage tight. Also a poly bushing to where it connects to the column. If there is any wear, it'll be in the steering column itself.

2 X HRPC on this

There are only two points where metal to metal contact occurs, every other pivot point is designed to accept a renewable nylon bushing. Here is how it is set up:

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[MikeB]

OK, I surrender!

Much improved over my 69 TH350's linkage, as I recall.

 

[HotRodPC]

OK, I surrender!

Much improved over my 69 TH350's linkage, as I recall.

Yes, IIRC is a different design. Sloppy shift linkage has never been a problem with squares as far as Auto trans. Of course yes for 3 speed column shift, they can wear out in the column, but the column auto linkage has never really been a problem at all. Even the guys who have had issues with P N safety switch and Reverse lights not working, that's in the switches on the column under the dash but not due to sloppy linkage.

 

[MikeB]

Well guys, I finally got the Lokar shift linkage working OK, but I'm not 100% happy with it, the main reason being linearity between the trans detents and column shifter detents. Anyway, this weekend I caved and bought all the stock linkage parts (including new bushings) from a guy on eBay that I have dealt with before.

Turns out the pivot bracket on the frame is the same P/N as my existing 3-speed manual trans bracket. Took me an hour or so to confirm it using GMPartsWiki.com. And since there aren't any extra holes on the frame, I'm betting I don't have to move it.

Just FYI, the bracket P/N is 6271386. Description is "BRACKET,TRANS CONT EQLZR SHF FRM".

Between the frame bracket, motor mount brackets, and steering column parts, I'll bet I've spent 8 hours on that site. But it's been a lifesaver.