Need longbed to shortbed links please

[moregrip1]

It's been a while, maybe early 2000's, there were threads or videos (can't remember which) that didn't just show the cuts on the bed floor when cutting it down from a longbed to a shortbed but explained the why and went over the dimensional relationships of making certain cuts and bolting everything back together......for the life of me I can't find them anymore....anyone have a link or two squirreled away you wouldn't mind posting?

I've already cut the frame with a built by brooks kit. I would just like a little more info on the "why" as opposed to just the "what" to do!

Thank you!

 

[Bennyt]

I used the Built by Brooks to shorten our C10 frame. Wasn't perfect but pretty close and very strong.

For the actual sheet metal, unless you have absolutely perfect bedsides and original paint, I'd probably just cut the bedfloor and bolt new/ used shortbed bedsides to save time and labor. Or if you are just awesome at cutting/ welding sheet metal.

if you Google Kyle Oxberger or Metalox fab you can see his work. He's probably shortened more than anybody out there. He sells a how-to video that's very detailed or he can do yours in a day if you can bring it to him.

 

[Fat 454]

Hopefully you have made an "S" cut to shorten the frame, rather than a straight or angled cut. The S cut is the strongest mechanically, and has the best distribution for stresses and strains. Also the intersection between cuts must be curved, not a sharp 90 degrees, this to prevent formation of cracks. Typically a hole saw is used for the corners, prior to the straight cuts.

As far as the bed goes, cut locations have been refined over the years to retain original paint, as well as just sheet metal shape, to the point that a re-paint not required - just a "touch-up".

The 67 - 72 board used to have a couple of really good threads - not sure if they come up currently with a search, as often the photo server is obsolete.
I had a load of pics saved ( mainly 67-72, as the rear to the bed pressing is more complicated - this is not such an issue on Squares I think ). - I'll have a trawl through and post for you if I can still find anything! ..

 

[Fat 454]

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[Fat 454]

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[Fat 454]

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[Fat 454]

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"S" cut with rounded corners - arguably the most structurally sound way to "cut and shut" ..

 

[Cemack]

Coyote custom hotrods on youtube

 

[moregrip1]

Coyote custom hotrods on youtube

Thanks man, I'm looking to just cut and weld, not really wanting to hammer down the back edge. There used to be good info out there but it seems finding it is more difficult for whatever reasons (too old probably)

 

[moregrip1]

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"S" cut with rounded corners - arguably the most structurally sound way to "cut and shut" ..

Thank you, I used a brooks kit on this one but I might try the S cut on another one I want to cut down.

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I feel like I have a good grasp on the frame and bedsides.....but a bit lacking on the bed floor

 

[Fat 454]

I feel like I have a good grasp on the frame and bedsides.....but a bit lacking on the bed floor

All the best info that I got on actually cutting and welding a steel bed floor came from the 67-72 board. May still be able to search for info there, but you are right, that stuff was "current" over 15 years ago now !
Biggest issue I remember for the Action line generation was matching the swept curve at the rear of the bed. You don't have that issue on the squares, as the mould line remains parrallel - so much easier.
Also guys were using a thin cut-off wheel to minimise distortion and re-work, and slicing up the whole bed whilst still assembled ( rather than breaking it down to sides and floor etc. I think that helps alignment, although personally I prefer working on the pieces seperately.
Everything is on YT rather than boards now - not sure what is available in that format tho', as haven't searched. Good luck - post pics ...

 

[Fat 454]

BTW - the offset cut shown in the bedsides I posted above was due to making up for a fuel filler flap area. Not necessary just to shorten the bed. Also, I have another set of pics somewhere where the dude actually cut and reshaped the front of the bed ( as it folds around the headboard filler section ), so there was no weld on that end and preserved the patina - amazing workmanship. I'll try and find the pics.
Bed floor is easy, just double check where you need / want the cross members to be afterward ...