master cylinder and booster

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78shortandwide

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Can I put a the master cylinder and booster out or a 86 in my 78
 

89Suburban

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Look up the part numbers on LMC's site and see if they match....
 

78shortandwide

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They have diff part numbers
 

89Suburban

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Doh!!! :sad72:
 

78shortandwide

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Well i picked this up at the junk yard today for 30.00. It is off a 84 c20, everything matches my 78. Gonna put it on on Monday. I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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sean1960

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It will work, I have an 84 master cylinder and booster on a 73.
 

HotRodPC

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Even though the part #'s are different, it'll work fine. Just be sure to use the correct rod for the booster, not the brake pedal. Different boosters use different rods. It'll be a direct bolt in. Should take but about 30 minutes total to make the swap.
 

davbell22602

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There's rebuild kits available for the master cylinder and maybe the booster too if needed.
 

78shortandwide

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I'll switch it out and do a rebuild on the one I take out. I've never done a rebuild before so it will be a learning experience.
 

WHEELMAN

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why would you want too switch from the good stuff.to the cheaper..crap...that makes no sense..iron is king..you want to go to the cheap aluminum-plastic tank on o-rings...dont make sense to me.do you just think it looks prettier.

i would think gm..switched to the cheaper junk..so it would break or wear out faster..so they could sell more..it is like when harley..switched to the.aluminum
cheaper engines..

the iron engines..could be rebuilt..like ten times.as more and was like a rock.but too each there own..when the cheaper brake system fails and if you crash.remember..i told you so..
 

WHEELMAN

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another thing..if i was going to switch...i would go on line and get something.built and upgraded..not stock off the self.or out of the junk yard..not on brakes..
 

RetroC10Sport

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I would NEVER rebuild or use a rebuilt master cylinder. Many times the cylinder walls are pitted.
 

78shortandwide

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why would you want too switch from the good stuff.to the cheaper..crap...that makes no sense..iron is king..you want to go to the cheap aluminum-plastic tank on o-rings...dont make sense to me.do you just think it looks prettier.

i would think gm..switched to the cheaper junk..so it would break or wear out faster..so they could sell more..it is like when harley..switched to the.aluminum
cheaper engines..

the iron engines..could be rebuilt..like ten times.as more and was like a rock.but too each there own..when the cheaper brake system fails and if you crash.remember..i told you so..
Maybe you didn't see the pic of the one I got it is not the newer plastic/aluminum one. It's all metal. And for Harleys they are over priced and not worth the money.
 

HotRodPC

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I have no problems using rebuilt or even buying rebuild kits and rebuilding my own brake cylinders and master cylinders. The parts to rebuild a wheel cylinder are about $6 each wheel, and about $15 for the master. Provided you have a brake hone, you can get the cylinders clean. Last time I did brakes, the wheel cylinder rebuild kit was $6, the wheel cylinder NEW with lifetime warranty was $12. No brainer. I did get the new cylinders instead of rebuilding them. Square parts are fairly cheap. I did buy a rebuilt master cylinder. Many times, the pitting can be bored out of the cylinder and use oversize rubber just like boring an engine, and it makes the master a bit stronger,
 

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