LS Swap AC Location

It is a strange phenomenon. It is intriguing to me that some vehicles can have such a problem and others to not.

 

https://tejassteelworks.com/product/squarebody-ls-motor-mounts/

Note that this moves the motor up and forward. So your Exhaust, Driveshaft, Trans mount will all need to move/adjust as well.

 

Tejas Steel work make great motor mount not shure if can help you for your compressor location!
https://tejassteelworks.com

Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Position

The mounting position used in this outline is approximately three inches forward of “stock”. This position was derived by mocking up the engine and transmission so that two objectives could be met: 1. retain the LS truck A/C compressor mounting on the lower right side, (aftermarket relocation brackets are expensive) 2. ensure adequate clearance at the cross-member to retain the LS truck oil pan, (aftermarket swap kits pushing oil pans are unnecessary)

The Tejas SteelWorks LS motor mount adapter plates achieve this. Others may, as well. Most sacrifice the A/C mounting

Air Conditioning

There are many opinions about the best way to execute Air Conditioning. Most seem to hinge on engine placement. If a stock engine and transmission location are used, relative to the firewall, the right side engine mount will interfere with the LS Truck compressor mount on the lower right side of the block. This will require an aftermarket bracket to move the compressor up higher on the right side. Both the OE R4 compressor and Sanden compressors are commonly used in this position. The brackets can range in cost from $160, to well over $300.

One of the original objectives of the Tejas SteelWorks engine mount adapter plates was to retain the low mount compressors, as it comes with the LS Truck engine assemblies. Our mounting plates position the engine far enough forward to clear the interference between the mounting stand and the compressor, and high enough to allow the compressor to tuck inside the frame rail, with reasonable clearance for hoses. A very minor notch in the top edge of the frame permits the hoses to exit straight away from the compressor. They should have 4” to 6” of hard line, before going to rubber hose. The outlet line (smaller) should bend forward at 90-120 degrees. The inlet line (larger) should just have a straight line, with a large loop in the hose to relieve any strain before heading back to the evaporator case. Our installation uses a Denso 10S17F type compressor, like those used on a 2003 LS Truck, with two separate port fittings.

Compressor controls can be managed by the early OE system, or by the LS ECM. High and Low pressure switches will be OE, for whichever method you choose.

 

Thanks for the info. I think I'll just relocate the AC higher up. I've contacted Tejas, ICT and Dirty Dingo on their mounts. I've heard back from ICT and Dirty Dingo, nothing from Tejas as of this post.

 

Tejas is slow to respond as it is just two people and they are churning out as much product as they can to keep up with demand. He has all the instructions for using his mounts posted on his website and on Facebook and they explain all that will be needed to keep it in the low mount position. If my memory is correct it is just a small bit of grinding and a different ac hose needed to work with his mounts.

 

Late chiming in, but I'm currently installing a Vintage Air system into my 1973 K5, and am running the low AC mount, as I don't like the look of the high A/C setup. With a Sanden compressor, it certainly clears, but it's a bit snug. The suction port is easily accessible, with the discharge port being a little more tricky to get the hose on, as it's clocked down by the frame.

 

What motor mounts did you use?

 

Using ORD Competition Mounts and crossmember on the frame side, with Hooker 12622HKR block plates.