Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering & Brakes' started by 87project, Mar 13, 2019.
Yes it means 3 inch front, 4 inch back
Have you looked at https://www.performanceonline.com
They have several specific kits to choose from.
I bought a complete lowering kit for my 87r10. I haven't installed it yet, but plan to within the next week or two.
The components should lower the front 3 1/2" and 4" in the rear.
I went with new upper and lower control arms, 2 1/2" drop spindles, 1" drop coils, lowered shocks and 4" lowered leaf springs in the rear.
I'm also replacing the tie rod ends and Pitman arm.
Not cheap, but it's my one big splurge for the year...
I would recommend you start with a spindle. It keeps all the factory travel and ride in place. You can get 2.5 or 3 drop ones. 15" wheels an a 3" spindle dont necessarily play well together though.
You can start with the spindle for the front and shackle/hanger combo on the rear. Look for one that is adjustable on either the shackle or hanger so you can fine tune the height to your liking.
I just went with kind of a basic kit for the time being. There will be lots and lots of changes down the road. Will post pictures when I get the kit installed
That link has 3 pages of listing of drop kits available for your truck.
Using shorter springs means higher spring rates= possibly rougher ride and is why I prefer spindles but not sure you can get them in 3" drop. Shackles/hangars are your next cheap option for the rear, they allow you to retain your stock springs and lower the body closer to the axle, blocks won work and your axle is under your rear springs
Best bang for the buck and ride I would use:
3" Drop Spendles Front
2" Rear Drop Shackles
2" Rear Drop Hangers
Rear Shock Extenders (To Keep Factoy Shocks)
With setup your ride should not suffer much at all and no bump steer issues.
I used Western Chassis spindles in the front. Unlike some other brands, they allowed my 15x8 rally wheels to clear the lower control arms.
In the back, all I did was install dropped hangers, which were good for 2". HOWEVER, I had to use "wedges" between leaf springs and axle to correct the drive line geometry, and that required longer spring locator pins, which I had to make. Still, I just couldn't bring myself to cut the bed support rails to clear dropped shackles.
Gotta tell you I would seriously consider using dropped leaf springs next time. Removing the bed with help of a few buddies was not too bad, but dropping the gas tank was a real PITA, not to mention drilling out the hanger rivets. And if you're going to drop the tank, plan on replacing the filler hose and vent hose when you put everything back together.
I went with McGaughys kit for my 86 Shortbed. Just make sure you verify your brakes size. They had heavy duty brakes and standard brakes. Heavy duty had a 1 1/4” thick rotors and the standard was 1” thick rotors. My truck has the 2.5” front and 4” rear. McGaughys.com
if you want to keep it level do 2" coils up front and 2" drop shackles plus 2" drop forward spring mounts for the rear. i did the forward spring mounts without removing the gas tank but mine is a short step with a 16gal. tank.and i had to sawzall the stock mount apart to access the front rivets. needless to say, the driver side will take 3 times longer than the passenger side. stock shocks will be fine but you will have to check clearance with exhaust to hard brake lines and such. i also installed a modified timbren overload system in place of the stock bump stop because i plan to haul wood and materials.
i went with 2" drop springs in the front, and brackets and shackles in the rear for a 2/4 total drop.
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