Low and reverse carnage

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WVscottsdale

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As y'all know I am having reverse trouble. Today I removed the trans and tore it down. Here is what I found, only one check valve in valve body low and reverse clutch pack and carrier destroyed and cooked. Also no diverted plate for the shift kit. Wondering if I should replace all clutch packs the rest looked ok and not burnt. Also band was not in place like it should it was just resting in the case not in the pockets. The shift kit was supposed to be a trans go tow haul kit.
 

crazy4offroad

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A complete rebuild kit is not very expensive, I would go through the whole thing. Here's a link HotRodPC gave me when I did mine...
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/350_transmission_parts_s/598.htm

Aside from the rebuild article we have here, I also used this tech article...
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/T-350_rebuild_tech
...to do a custom internal dual-feed setup, drilled the stock separator plate, and doubled up the sun gear bushings. I didn't do the 1-2 accumulator mod, direct drum machining, 2-3 accumulator mod, or the intermediate clutch mod. My shifts turned out plenty strong with what I did do, cant imagine what they would be like if I did everything in that article. I also left out the 2 valve body check balls as outlined in HotRodPC's disassembly article here at the forum.
 

WVscottsdale

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Thanks the carrier that turns the clutches had grooves cut in it from it trying to turn and wore out all the teeth on the clutches and of course burnt to a crisp. I will post a pic when I start up my computer dont know how on my phone. I used hotrods pics to tear it down a lot easier than people make it out to be one thing that really pissed mee off is when I only found 1 check ball in the valve body. Thank you for your help in the diagnostic part as well
 

HotRodPC

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Fuggin Tease !!! Titles it Carnage, and then doesn't post pics !!! WTF???
 

WVscottsdale

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below is the low reverse carrier and notice the cogs on the clutch plate
 

WVscottsdale

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picture.php
 

HotRodPC

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Yep, that's just low/reverse clutch burnt up. This is clutch carnage. When steels and clutches are welded together and the fluid is blacker than dirty motor oil. :rofl:
attachment.php


This type of damage you have is usually caused by dragging clutches. Usually found in these "homemade" shift kit type mods. So you're saying you only had 1 check ball in the valve body? You need at least #1 and #2. Typical to throw away #3 and #4. Also what can happen is someone has a Stage 1 shift kit, then they open 2 more holes to make it be a Stage 2 kit, now you have to many holes in the VB spacer plate opened up, that will also cause problems. Not sure if it's this problem though. You mention the tranfser plate wasn't used. Transgo Kits I've seen, the transfer plate is part of the main spacer plate. So maybe someone used an OEM spacer plate and did the dual feeding mod to the trans itself.
 

WVscottsdale

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Yeah only one ball. Could I just use a B&M shift kit or just use the plate as it is and replace the one ball. Also the carrier that has all the grooves cut in it sideways hard to get or expensive.
 

HotRodPC

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Yeah only one ball. Could I just use a B&M shift kit or just use the plate as it is and replace the one ball. Also the carrier that has all the grooves cut in it sideways hard to get or expensive.

Not knowing what's been done to that separator plate and if it had something to do with this failure, I would NOT use that plate that came out of it. I've always had great luck with B&M shift improver kits, both Stage 1 and Stage 2 configurations. I'll warn, if you just want a firmed up shift, go with Stage 1. The Stage 2 configuration does hit pretty damn hard. Especially if you leave the 1-2 accumulator spring out.
 

WVscottsdale

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Also just thought you wkuld like this there was rtv around the pump lol. In a rebuild kit would the clutch gear be in that or will I need to get it seperate
 

crazy4offroad

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Roller clutch sprag? You have to get separately. Also I would look at the ports at the front of the trans where the pump goes, it could be possible someone did set it up as internal dual feed. Main giveaway would be only 1 seal on the direct apply piston.
 

WVscottsdale

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If it was setup like that how or should I change it and the sprag I'm going call a performance shop tomorrow a family member works at and see about getting parts at cost lol
 

crazy4offroad

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The trans parts usa link I posted in my 1st post has hardened sprags. As far as internal dual feed vs separator plate dual feed I prefer the internal, it means fewer gaskets to fail at the valve body/separator plates.
 

WVscottsdale

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Sorry to sound like a moron on this but I just want to do it right and this is my first one. The stuff I rebuild is similar but different if that makes sense. I'm a mechanic on heavy equipment and do the small trucks and cars on the side and I hate doing something twice. I really am thankfull for the help y'all have given to me. I tried posted more pics of the roller clutch sprang but my computer wouldn't load them. Thank y'all again I'm sure ill need more help when the rebuild happens. Also I think I'll go with the stage 2 but keep the spring I want strong shifts but don't want to break stuff lol. The engine is about 400hp and a with a strong cam. If I can find the specs could y'all let me know y'all's opinion if its right
 
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