K10 tube Yoke Size/Series etc?

[AlexK10]

Hi, I'm trying to identify what size yoke or "series" are the tube yokes on my rear driveshaft.

Ive researched several websites including Fort Wayne, Spicer and others that appeared on google without luck.

Does anyone have an idea what are the stock tube yokes on a 1984 K10?

or a good resource to look up?

Thanks!

 

[bucket]

1330 or S44 or something like that. U-joint size charts are easy to find on Google and then you just measure and compare.

Are you just wanting to replace the joints or are you building a new shaft?

 

[AlexK10]

Thank you bucket, I need to extend the shaft for proper engagement on the transfer case output splines. Therefore a new shaft would be the best option intead of extending. My k10 has 2" lift blocks and that may be the reason why the yoke that slips into the transfer case is so far out. I also would like to add 2 more inches of lift before extending the drive shaft.
I haven't looked for/sourced a local driveshaft build shop yet but would like to research the parts needed so I know what Im talking about when I contact them.
And if for any reason they don't have the yokes I need I could order them and possibly save some money by only having them supply the tube and welding/balancing.

Looking for options.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

My 84 k10 suburban rear driveshaft had "3r" u-joints, I believe the front did as well ( not positive about the double cardan). I've been to a local driveline shop in my area and they didn't ask too much really, I just had them rebuild the cardan joint in the front shaft and that was it but even still, all you gotta do is tell em what you want, know the terms and your good to go.

Ive got a 4 inch lift with stock driveshafts and I haven't had any issues in 1000 miles

 

[bucket]

3r sounds right.

The driveline shop can easily re-tube the shaft you have, so there's no need to build another shaft unless you just want a spare.

 

[bucket]

Is your truck a short or long bed?

 

[AlexK10]

Its a long bed. The driveshaft is thinner in diameter as it reaches the yokes and where they weld but I havent taken any measurements yet.

I do know that the slip yoke had about 3" exposed from the end of the transfer case and about the same into the transfer case as I slipped it out. This was with the wheels on the ground.

Somewhere I read that 1 to 1.5" exposed slip yoke is acceptable, but mine was/is far more than that.

 

[bucket]

Keep in mind, the NP208's output shaft protrudes from the housing a fair amount, so there's probably more engagement there than you realize.

I ran my Burb for years with a shaft that was a couple inches too short, and used the truck hard sometimes. It never was a problem. I did later have a longer shaft made, but that was to gain 1350 sized yokes.

 

[AlexK10]

Good point. I should probably put the driveshaft back on this weekend and take some detailed measurements to have a better idea on the engagement. That should give us an idea on wether or not I could safely drive it with a 4" lift.

 

[AlexK10]

Quick update on my situation. I said I would reinstall the driveshaft and measure the slip yoke but I didn't. Instead (yesterday) I dropped the transmission and transfer case to install new seals (transfer/trans/rear main).

So now I have the truck in pieces again ... and found out I also need a new TV cable for the 700r4 and the dip stick grommet in addition to all the seals I already purchased.

Ill research the forums for info on those and post under the Transmission section any questions. After its all back together Ill get back to the slip yoke.