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Kapdin

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Ok so quick back story, truck died in the feild then replaced ignition module. Truck ran good for a week or so then SAME THING in the yard. So i then replaced it again, replaced alternator and fixed my ground on the engine block (which i found two missing exhaust manifold bolts :whymewhyme: ) truck fired up instantly AGAIN, and on top of that all my lights and gauges and engine all worked even better so i was stoked. Drove it prolli 10 miles and shut it of maybe 4-5 times and went to start it 6th and FUGGGGGIN NOTHING! :upyours: wat could it be? Is it actualy the coil and everytime i change the module i fix it for a while???? or is it rly frying my module's? The coil is the one and only thing i have not changed. And when it runs it runs fugggin good. :mfr_omg::banghead: not a happy guy tonight.
 

Jims86

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Ok so quick back story, truck died in the feild then replaced ignition module. Truck ran good for a week or so then SAME THING in the yard. So i then replaced it again, replaced alternator and fixed my ground on the engine block (which i found two missing exhaust manifold bolts :whymewhyme: ) truck fired up instantly AGAIN, and on top of that all my lights and gauges and engine all worked even better so i was stoked. Drove it prolli 10 miles and shut it of maybe 4-5 times and went to start it 6th and FUGGGGGIN NOTHING! :upyours: wat could it be? Is it actualy the coil and everytime i change the module i fix it for a while???? or is it rly frying my module's? The coil is the one and only thing i have not changed. And when it runs it runs fugggin good. :mfr_omg::banghead: not a happy guy tonight.

I would throw a new AC Delco coil in and try...probably the only way to find out.
Make sure the lower area of the distributor, the hold down fork, bolt, and manifold are squeeky clean for good ground.
 

Kapdin

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Which grounds are you refering to? i just used one of thos exhaust manifold bolts as the block ground to the firewall. (if you cant tell im doing all this for the first time so humor me bud) Also FYI id be so lost without you guys thanks by the way.
 

Jims86

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Which grounds are you refering to? i just used one of thos exhaust manifold bolts as the block ground to the firewall. (if you cant tell im doing all this for the first time so humor me bud) Also FYI id be so lost without you guys thanks by the way.

you should bolt the ground strapnto the back of the head, you should be able to feel the bolt holes back there....again, squeeky clean.
 

jake wells

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always good to put a light dab of dielectric grease on your ground terminals to keep them from rusting and corroding
 

HotRodPC

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There is a way to test a coil using an ohm meter. Usually when a coil starts giving signs of giving up, it can be like what you are describing. The truck will start, then shuts off for no spark. You go and get another module or whatever you do and come back, the coil has cooled off and it starts after you replace something, and you think that's it, when it's actually the coil. It's just being allowed to cool while you making the wrong repairs, and as soon as it warms up again, you lose spark again. If you have another coil, throw it in and see, but it sounds to me, you need an ohm meter, and need to start identifying defective parts instead of spending money and swapping parts. There is also a way to test the Ignition module. Have you check the Hot wire to the Dizzy cap for voltage, both with Key in ON position without motor running, and with motor running. Low voltaage to the coil will cause a problem for the coil, high voltage will cause a problem for the Ignition Module. Also, are you certain, that Hot wire isn't possiibly grounding out with a cut or tear in the insulation somewhere? No trans change recently where you might have pinched it???
 

crazy4offroad

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If I were you I would pick up a $30 digital multimeter, I got mine from Sears years ago. Make sure it has at least DC volts, ohms, and continuity tester. Then pick up a el-cheapo Haynes repair manual at the parts store for these trucks. It has the proper test procedure for the coil, ignition module and even the pick-up coil that resides deep down in the distributor. Just throwing parts at a problem gets expensive, it's better to spend a little money to have the right tools to figure out the problem. Good luck and if you cant find a book I can scan ya the pages but cant post it on a public forum due to copyright infringement. I can PM it to ya though.
 

89Suburban

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Yeah, you really need to start diagnosing instead of throwing parts at it. You have a meter to use? I can dig up some instructions for ya if you do.
 

J Knight

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My neighbor had the same problem, we changed the coil, then we changed the module, then the cap. It kept leaving him stranded. I told him there is a damn gremlin in that dist you need to change the whole damn thing. He bought a new complete $100 dist and hasnt had a problem since. And yes I know there is a way to test each individual part but in my opinion the whole unit is too cheap not to just swap it out and be done with it.
 

89Suburban

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My neighbor had the same problem, we changed the coil, then we changed the module, then the cap. It kept leaving him stranded. I told him there is a damn gremlin in that dist you need to change the whole damn thing. He bought a new complete $100 dist and hasnt had a problem since. And yes I know there is a way to test each individual part but in my opinion the whole unit is too cheap not to just swap it out and be done with it.

Yah, HR had a link around here for a 50 dolla one on ebay somwhere.... :think:
 

HotRodPC

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My neighbor had the same problem, we changed the coil, then we changed the module, then the cap. It kept leaving him stranded. I told him there is a damn gremlin in that dist you need to change the whole damn thing. He bought a new complete $100 dist and hasnt had a problem since. And yes I know there is a way to test each individual part but in my opinion the whole unit is too cheap not to just swap it out and be done with it.
That was probably the pick up coil in the dizzy. The dizzy bushings can get worn too and cause damage to the pick up coil.

Even a $3 Multimeter from Harbor Freight will work to test many things. I have a high dollar DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter), But I also have 3 or so of the HF cheap meters laying around in various places. I need it, I got it. I need electrical parts from Pull A Part, I can take my cheap $3 to test them. If I lose it or break it, so what !!! It's cheap and effective. So far they've help up.
 

89Suburban

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That was probably the pick up coil in the dizzy. The dizzy bushings can get worn too and cause damage to the pick up coil.

Even a $3 Multimeter from Harbor Freight will work to test many things. I have a high dollar DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter), But I also have 3 or so of the HF cheap meters laying around in various places. I need it, I got it. I need electrical parts from Pull A Part, I can take my cheap $3 to test them. If I lose it or break it, so what !!! It's cheap and effective. So far they've help up.

Where that dizzy link at?
 

HotRodPC

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Yah, HR had a link around here for a 50 dolla one on ebay somwhere.... :think:

$48.50 delivered for New Dizzy, Cap, Rotor, 65K Volt coil Coil, Pick up Coil, Module and all. This is the exact one I have with the fancy MSD fancy cap in Red. All kinds of colors available and the OEM Coil Cap too. Brass Tips in the Dizzy Caps. I'd buy more of these, since by the time you buy Cap and Rotor these days, you're about half way there. Then you get module and coil too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-BBC-CHE...TRIBUTOR-6500-R-/350589041557?forcev4exp=true

Here are more, everyone I know of that has these cheap things, love'em. I am sure they are China Pro Comp though.

$48 in Black 65K volt Coil.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-BBC-Che...Parts_Accessories&hash=item257458c9b0&vxp=mtr

$49 in Clear 65K volt Coil.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-BBC-GM-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e70005844&vxp=mtr

$46 in Red OE Style Cap Cover 50K volt Coil.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Brand-N...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ca936c5b&vxp=mtr

$45 in Black OE Style Cap Cover 50K volt Coil
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-BBC-Che...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2574594953&vxp=mtr
 

J Knight

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That was probably the pick up coil in the dizzy. The dizzy bushings can get worn too and cause damage to the pick up coil.

Even a $3 Multimeter from Harbor Freight will work to test many things. I have a high dollar DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter), But I also have 3 or so of the HF cheap meters laying around in various places. I need it, I got it. I need electrical parts from Pull A Part, I can take my cheap $3 to test them. If I lose it or break it, so what !!! It's cheap and effective. So far they've help up.
Yea we looked at changing that too, but it was an old dizzy and he plans on keeping the truck forever so it just made more sence to make it completely reliable. After three or four times getting towed home he was happy to put a new one in it. Lol
 

HotRodPC

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Here is the cheap Multimeter. They do go on sale for $2.99 and $1.99 at times. That's when I bought 5 of them. I get people wanting to borrow my good Actron, I GIVE them one of these. Seems the reviews are bad though. Must be everyone that got a bad one did a review. I've got 2 or 3 myself, and never a problem. The 3 I've given away, the guys have liked them and tried to pay me for them. SIL and Bro are the first 2 that got them, and a neighbor. So of 5 or 6 I have, they seem to be fine, and are at least 2 years old or older. Don't get used much though of course. They are great for your Pull A Part tool bag just to test parts before you buy. Take instructions how to test the item with you though.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html
 

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