How I fixed my boken frame

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82chevyk10

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2011
Posts
26
Reaction score
2
Location
Kentucky
First Name
Tim
Truck Year
1982
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350/sm465
I read a thread on here about someone with broke frame at the p/s gear box. I actually had this problem last year, and if I would have know that this was a problem area for these body style Chevrolets I would have reinforced it before it cracked. This was my solution that didn’t involve any new parts other than bolts, nuts and washers. I removed the tire, inner fender well, bumper, bumper bracket, p/s gear box, and cut the fame off between the motor mounts and gear box holes. I intended on replacing the whole section of frame, but my bumper bracket and leaf spring bracket wouldn't line up with the holes in my donor k20 frame from a junk yard, so I decided to reuse my original section. I got the junk yard guy to cut the donor of behind the motor mount so I had plenty extra to work with. I use a ratchet strap to pull the cracks together on the broke section and welded it, grinded down the welds, and drilled the p/s gear box hole back round. I cut section from the donor that laid inside the original that run from the front of the p/s gear box to behind the cut i made. Using bolts in existing holes to line it up, and tack welded it in few places so it would hold. I lined it up at the splice and tacked it on the top and bottom to hold it in place. I rechecked everything to make sure it was square, then welded the entire cut line on the outside. I cut a section from the bottom of the donor long enough to go from the from of the p/s gear box to behind the cut line. Instead of welding I drilled and used 3/8” grade 8 bolts and nuts to hold it in place. I made a bracket for the outside to the cut line using 1/8” angle steel and 1/8” flat steel cutting both pieces to a desired length and welding them together. I bolted it over the splice using several grade 8 bolts. Kept tightening until the steel plate contoured to the frame and put en extra nut on so it wouldn’t back off. Finally I was ready to put everything back together. FYI, it wasn't as easy as i just made that sound. It took a lot of cutting, grinding, fitting, and more cutting and grinder to get everything to fit just right. Just over a year of daily driving and off road abuse and still staying strong, though not very pretty.

Leftover angle steel used for the plate to cover the splice.
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Leftover steel plate used to make the plate to cover the splice.
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Some of what was leftover from the donor frame section
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Bottom view of the pate i made to cover the splice. I had to drill out one of the factory brads on the cross member so the plate would fit flush. Replaced it with a grade 8 bolt.
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Side view of the plate i put on the bottom of the frame that I cut from the donor.
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Side view of the plate that's covering the slice.
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Top view of the splice
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