Hot, hot won't start..

[Sad Sack]

Tapping the starter with a hammer is a quick fix for worn out or stuck brushes.

Not starting when hot may be a different issue with the starter. Not sure a hammer will help with this, cut it couldn't hurt.

Either way, I would install the mini high torque gear reduction starter and heat blanket. Its a great upgrade, even for a truck with a good starer.
Cranks faster, the starter is smaller, its more reliable, and its SBC bling.

I agree. They are really nice, I used a 4 horsepower one in my Camaros 383 and it worked magically.

 

[hey mister]

Do good consistent raps, not the hey lets beat the snot out of it but a good non-denting rap on the starter body, not the solenoid. This indicates I believe that the armature is dragging and starter will need replace or repair. Just can't recall if solenoid was making audible sounds or not when it happened to me, was so long ago...

Yes when dad made me slidr under thr burb it wasn't to whail on it...just wske it up and get out...we got places to go.

 

[75gmck25]

Have headers may also be part of the problem, since they usually transmit more heat to the starter.

 

[hoagster]

I would change out the old wiring, I had to do that with mine. Got tired of crawling under the truck and jumping it with a screw driver, after changing starter, battery etc. It will last for another 40 years.

 

[Sad Sack]

Have headers may also be part of the problem, since they usually transmit more heat to the starter.

Yes they do.

 

[Grit dog]

I forgot to post...
Battery is a 8 month old red top Optima.
Cables are original.

You probably answered your own questions by now.
While I’m sure your truck is in nice condition, haven’t met too many battery cables that made it to their 40th birthday strong and healthy.
But you gotta diagnose a little to be sure although cables and a new/mini starter are money well spent in your scenario regardless.
Gotta ask, why the fancy radiator and electric fans? (And headers if it’s a stock ish low power tree fiddy.) Were there issues were you trying to cure? Or just “bought it that way”? My (same truck) will sit in traffic or pull a hill in 90deg weather with the AC blasting and the needle don’t move above half. Doesn’t even smell warm. Just trying to save/make a few more hp or?

Like drum brakes, and other “old” technology. If it’s working right it’s arguably as good or better than the “upgrades.”
It’s not like these trucks overheated and had insufficient brakes when they were new…..

 

[legopnuematic]

It’s not like these trucks overheated and had insufficient brakes when they were new…..

Heck, you can even preheat the rotors if you wanted

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[Grit dog]

Heck, you can even preheat the rotors if you wanted

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All I can say is hell yeah! That’s a great add.
But yeah. Them old squares didn’t give up much in braking power to newer trucks imo.
It may be hard to believe for the “rear disc” crowd but trucks needed to stop quickly sometimes in 1973 too!
I think it’s mostly the ignorant “these brakes suck” when the car has been sitting in blocks next to the Kmart kiddie pool for 4 years in the front yard crowd that propagate some of these “improvements.”

 

[Chevy 88]

Have headers may also be part of the problem, since they usually transmit more heat to the starter.

To protect my mini starter from the headers, I built an aluminum heat shield and used a thermal blanket as well.

The interesting thing about these little starters, is that you can disconnect the mating surface on the starter and rotate the assembly (or at least mine can) . So basically you place the starter body and solenoid in what ever position you want, which is usually far away from the exhaust.

 

[Sad Sack]

To protect my mini starter from the headers, I built an aluminum heat shield and used a thermal blanket as well.

The interesting thing about these little starters, is that you can disconnect the mating surface on the starter and rotate the assembly (or at least mine can) . So basically you place the starter body and solenoid in what ever position you want, which is usually far away from the exhaust.

Just like old days when you could clock your alternator to move electrical connector around.

 

[hey mister]

You probably answered your own questions by now.
While I’m sure your truck is in nice condition, haven’t met too many battery cables that made it to their 40th birthday strong and healthy.
But you gotta diagnose a little to be sure although cables and a new/mini starter are money well spent in your scenario regardless.
Gotta ask, why the fancy radiator and electric fans? (And headers if it’s a stock ish low power tree fiddy.) Were there issues were you trying to cure? Or just “bought it that way”? My (same truck) will sit in traffic or pull a hill in 90deg weather with the AC blasting and the needle don’t move above half. Doesn’t even smell warm. Just trying to save/make a few more hp or?

Like drum brakes, and other “old” technology. If it’s working right it’s arguably as good or better than the “upgrades.”
It’s not like these trucks overheated and had insufficient brakes when they were new…..

Well, the exhaust manifold stove was falling apart and the stock manifold has some leaks. The aftermarket dual exhaust was about rusted thru at joints, so I needed to replace it soon.
I live very close to Summit Racing and I picked up long tube headers and 2-1/2" stainless steel exhaust kit, plus mufflers for what another aftermarket set would run or close to it.
The stock radiator was corroided pretty bad. And the 2 row aluminum with fans was only a tad more than a single row copper with plastic caps (which I hate)
I gained a few horse with the headers, so it was worth it.
Mine has zero pollution krap on it as from factory.

 

[Ricko1966]

Well, the exhaust manifold stove was falling apart and the stock manifold has some leaks. The aftermarket dual exhaust was about rusted thru at joints, so I needed to replace it soon.
I live very close to Summit Racing and I picked up long tube headers and 2-1/2" stainless steel exhaust kit, plus mufflers for what another aftermarket set would run or close to it.
The stock radiator was corroided pretty bad. And the 2 row aluminum with fans was only a tad more than a single row copper with plastic caps (which I hate)
I gained a few horse with the headers, so it was worth it.
Mine has zero pollution krap on it as from factory.

Electric fans typically do not out perform the stock mechanical fan.And most aftermarket electric fans the CFM ratings are grossly inflated. I did put up results of testing on a different thread once the difference in horsepower was very minimal,and an engine dyno does not have a working alternator in the equation,so a working alternator is going to close some of that gap up as well. The difference was like 7 hp on a 450 hp engine. Okay it was 7 hp on a 496hp engine stock fan with clutch,vs. Electric.Again not factoring loss due to the alternator havingbto work harder

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[Grit dog]

Well, the exhaust manifold stove was falling apart and the stock manifold has some leaks. The aftermarket dual exhaust was about rusted thru at joints, so I needed to replace it soon.
I live very close to Summit Racing and I picked up long tube headers and 2-1/2" stainless steel exhaust kit, plus mufflers for what another aftermarket set would run or close to it.
The stock radiator was corroided pretty bad. And the 2 row aluminum with fans was only a tad more than a single row copper with plastic caps (which I hate)
I gained a few horse with the headers, so it was worth it.
Mine has zero pollution krap on it as from factory.

That’s cool! Does you like how the aluminum rad and electric fans work?
Asking because I’ve thought about it if the radiators go out on either of the squares.

 

[hey mister]

That’s cool! Does you like how the aluminum rad and electric fans work?
Asking because I’ve thought about it if the radiators go out on either of the squares.

I absoultely luv this rad/fan set up. Painless make a great wiring harness for ele fan setup.
The two row alum v/s the stock single copper/brass is hands down more effecient.
I can grab the lower rad hose when I can't touch the top hose.
You can search the swap post on here.
The twin fans are shrouded pullers and I can feel air drafting 6" from the grill.
This rad is a direct fit. No mods needed.
Research aside, I've watched a number of speed/performance episodes and not one favors a copper/brass/plastic rad over aluminum. I suspect they might know a bit more than I.
The only guys doing original factory rads are guys being judged for factory stock competitions.
I prefer reliability.
But, to each his own.

 

[Grit dog]

^Thank you. Appreciate the opinion and makes me favor a newer setup like that more.