Hello. New guy here.

[77chevy400]

My name is chris. Ive had 2 chevys before a 84 and 86.

So the old achool trucks isnt a new thing to me but im still learning.

I had a car it was a 94 thunderbird v8. And upon wanting to sell it someone responded with a 77 chevy c10(maybe scottsdale idk, it was debadged).

Hood sticker shows it once was a factory 305 truck but owner states thr guy beforr him dropped a 70-75 chevy 400. Just from reading the motor reciepts and driving the truck i can tell she anit no whimpy 305. It runs like a scaulding kid running away from a beehive.

Transmission and differential look stock. Transmission has signs of it being pulled a few times. Im not sure how to tell if its got a stall converter but i know it has a shift kit. And a harsh one at that. First drive i broke traction at 2000 rpm while turning in between a gear change. Unexpected, but cool

Right off hand i know it needs paint(ill get yall pics soon).

Doors sag down(already order hinge pin kits)

Heater core is bypass, ive verified a massive leak from it when i unbypassed it.(came with a new core.)

Needs a wheel cylinder.(seller said thst, i havent checked them for leakage yrt)

She sqeaks a little in the front end when hitting bumps or pulling in a bumpy driveway(anyone got any insight on that)

She has some wide tires..strangly none of the tires have the size on them. I know what to look for and ive checked both sides...nothing.. It does have some 5 lug brake dust covered pacer bullethole rims.

One more thing that puzzles me is the original owner wired a home light switch to the blower motor.. Why is that?

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[bucket]

Howdy!

Need to get rid of that light switch ASAP, the guy is probably running it un-fused too. Usually, when there is a switch to run the blower on high speed only, it's because the blower relay or resistor is bad and the owner didn't feel like figuring it out. Or the switch in the dash could be bad also.

 

[Mr Clean]

from N.E.

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[77chevy400]

Howdy!

Need to get rid of that light switch ASAP, the guy is probably running it un-fused too. Usually, when there is a switch to run the blower on high speed only, it's because the blower relay or resistor is bad and the owner didn't feel like figuring it out. Or the switch in the dash could be bad also.

Yes it is unfused light switch.

Which fails first the relay or resister and how csn i test the relay to make sure its good. I seen the knob switch, if its that i can get a 6$ one from rockauto.

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[Rusty Nail]

Welcome, new guy Chris.

 

[77chevy400]

Thanks for the welcome. Ill have pics tomorrow of the truck.

First thing i need todo is get the heater core in. (Cold fronts coming back).

Fix the sagging doors, which reminds mr i know i can buy new pins and bushings but does a new hinge comr with all that. Its only 12$ more.

Never replaced hinges or door pins, it'll be a first for me so advice is greatly welcomed.

Clean up the rims on it seeing how brake dust has been collecting for 4+ years now.

Unwire that crappy switch for thr blower fan snd wire it bsck normal, i assume because it was put on s toggle either the actual speed selector switch went or maybe the (blower motor).

Put the new carpet in i bought for it.

Find a toolbox at work(must have.).

And definatly go ahead and get the primer covered on it. Cheap lowes interior paint is trashed after only 6 months.

And purchase/install a cam.

Speaking of which what is a good torque cam that has a nice lopy sound?.

Motor was rebuilt back to stock 7500 miles ago even though i may not need lifters or springs im still replacing them.

Im looking for a cam thats basically slide and bolt on. Nothing that needs head work(for now).

My goals with this truck is get it painted and the few quirks worked out before end of april. Pull the motor first week in may to install new heads/cam/intake and have it all built and installed in a week.



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[77chevy400]

Today i found a few snags. This is definatly a project truck. First i heard alot of sqeaking while driving and hitting bumps. Found out its a ball joint on both sides likely uppers. Threw some grease in them and its gone..for now. Will have new upper arms already assembled next week ready for installation.

Put the truck on a lift and found a few rusty areas. Tailgate.. Few small areas which i have a replacement tailgate i picked up for 30$. Only surface rust which is easily sandable and paintable.. Cab corner?(i think thats what its called) under the truck right beside the cab mount.. From the cab mount(2" past) all the way to the drivers fender the metal is there but its ate up. Its structure is still sturdy so a flat 4-5" wide piece of metal should take care of that.

Kick panel on drivers door. A 9" area of tiny holes all through out. Only noticable when the doors opened really. And two floor panels. I can barely see the ground on the passenger side where the pan meets the cab frame structure 1/8th size hole from each edge of the floor pan. On the drivers side its just a tad bit bigger running from corner to corner on the floor pan.

Also the front bumper would flex and move when i turnt the steering wheel. I realized a bolt on the right and bolt on thr left where loose. Upon inspection i noticed the bumper bracket thats attached to the bumper has a little rust around its holes, which caused the bolt to pull thru a bit. Im going to slap two thick washers in the gap to be able to snug it down tight and call that fixed. What concerns me id the rust.. Ive never repaired rust however ive used bondo. Is it possible to cover up the section on the drivers kick panel(will post pics tomorrow).
With bondo. Use it on both sides..sand and paint it?.

Ive never cut and welded any metal so if i can get away eith doing the job good with a few tiny spots of bondo thats good news. The floor pans and cab corner mount section i have a friend whos willing to weld that once i get the sheet metal(no clue where to buy it).

Any advice is welcomed. Not new to chevys had a previous 84 and 76 both only had surfacr rust so this is a tricky one for me.

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[CSFJ]

The trouble with bondo-ing over the holes, is the rust will only get worse. The only real solution is to cut it out and weld in new metal. The replacement patch panels are available from a few sources and are relatively inexpensive.