Harmonic Vibration

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Frankenchevy

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Okay, so I am a complete idiot sometimes. I crawled back under the truck and went through the mental checklist nice and slow and as I’m sitting there staring at my driveshaft I thought to myself, “gee, that diff looks like it’s pointing straight at my transfer case.”

I’m not sure how I missed it several times, but my factory steel shims were installed backwards. Now that they’re turned around, my diff yoke to driveshaft angle matches my transfer case yoke to driveshaft angle. That ought to be the source of my troubles. Lol
 

Frankenchevy

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My 84 has a grease zerk in the front driveshaft? It should be on the end collar for the front half of the shaft. A shock boot will work well for a new dust cover. My zip ties have held up well also, as long as you get quality ones, probably a little bit larger ones.

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I checked my front driveshaft, no zerk. Which makes sense—I read on the steelsoldiers website that the cucv didn’t come with a zerk for whatever reason. The conversation was about the elimination of the boot and replacing the shaft altogether.
 

Snoots

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Okay, so I am a complete idiot sometimes. I crawled back under the truck and went through the mental checklist nice and slow and as I’m sitting there staring at my driveshaft I thought to myself, “gee, that diff looks like it’s pointing straight at my transfer case.”

I’m not sure how I missed it several times, but my factory steel shims were installed backwards. Now that they’re turned around, my diff yoke to driveshaft angle matches my transfer case yoke to driveshaft angle. That ought to be the source of my troubles. Lol

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Craig 85

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I checked my front driveshaft, no zerk. Which makes sense—I read on the steelsoldiers website that the cucv didn’t come with a zerk for whatever reason. The conversation was about the elimination of the boot and replacing the shaft altogether.

I know on my 2016 Ram 2500 the front cardin joint had a flush "needle style" zerk fitting similar to the one below, but was buried in the center of the joint. I can't imagine the military wouldn't have some way to lube the front driveshaft and just relied on a boot. The military has done stranger things though.

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shiftpro

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Okay, so I am a complete idiot sometimes. I crawled back under the truck and went through the mental checklist nice and slow and as I’m sitting there staring at my driveshaft I thought to myself, “gee, that diff looks like it’s pointing straight at my transfer case.”

I’m not sure how I missed it several times, but my factory steel shims were installed backwards. Now that they’re turned around, my diff yoke to driveshaft angle matches my transfer case yoke to driveshaft angle. That ought to be the source of my troubles. Lol
Rather anticlimactic... yawn.
I hope you got it.
 

Frankenchevy

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Swing and a miss...

I’m sure my driveshaft is happy with it’s return to correct geometry, but it wasn’t the problem. I was also wrong about it being only with the throttle on and now I can feel it a bit in the steering.

This might be it. I guess I should throw the new tie rods on.

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Frankenchevy

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The moogs definitely don’t look as beefy as the originals as far as physical size.
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Craig 85

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I think my Napa ones were the same.
 

Frankenchevy

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Anyone know the torque spec for k30 tie rod and drag link castle nuts? I read 45lbs, just wanting to confirm.
 

Frankenchevy

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I’m waiting on the long piece for the tie rod. Already had the short piece and the drag links. Tore the truck apart this afternoon because UPS showed it in transit from the facility about a half hour away. I’m beginning to not believe them...

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shiftpro

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The saga continues... I'm all happy again.
 

Frankenchevy

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They ave me excited again. But could it be, Saturday delivery from UPS? They do Saturday delivery to my business, but to a residence is not usual. Maybe it’s a holiday thing?
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Frankenchevy

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Well I got the steering all taken care of. Swing and a miss again. I’m going to pull the trigger on an Eaton truetrac or a Detroit this week through a diff guy and have him rebuild the rear end.

If it turns out that the driveline shop did a poor job on the balance, that’d suck. It’s some sort of computer balancing, though.
 
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Frankenchevy

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I made an appointment for Friday at the diff shop. He’s going to install new wheel bearings and seals that I already have. Additionally, he’s going to put in an Eaton truetrac, new carrier bearings and new pinion bearing. Total for parts and labor is $1400. Does that sound reasonable?

The true trac alone is $750 +tax. I’d say with bearings, shims etc there’s probably $900 in parts...
 

shiftpro

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I made an appointment for Friday at the diff shop. He’s going to install new wheel bearings and seals that I already have. Additionally, he’s going to put in an Eaton truetrac, new carrier bearings and new pinion bearing. Total for parts and labor is $1400. Does that sound reasonable?

The true trac alone is $750 +tax. I’d say with bearings, shims etc there’s probably $900 in parts...
Considering the times we live in, yes reasonable for sure.
 

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