Gauge/Idle circuit

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WFO

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Other than the gauges, can someone tell me what else is on the Gauge/Idle circuit on an 86 GVWR 8600, standard transmission. I don't know what the Idle part means.
I haven't had this truck for that long, but have been driving it regularly for a couple of months, since a kid wrecked into my daily driver.
Last week I went to turn it on, and noticed the fuel gauge at 9 O'clock, temp at 180, and oil pressure at 60, before starting a cold engine. Found and changed a blown Gauge/Idle fuse, and it worked fine till yesterday, then the same thing. It must be blowing the fuse occasionally, when I turn off the ignition.
I'm sure I'll be pulling the gauge cluster to look for anything obvious, but am hoping to wait until I get my daily driver back from the body shop. Any ideas are welcome. Carrying extra fuses for now.
 

chengny

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Other than the gauges, can someone tell me what else is on the Gauge/Idle circuit on an 86 GVWR 8600, standard transmission. I don't know what the Idle part means.
I haven't had this truck for that long, but have been driving it regularly for a couple of months, since a kid wrecked into my daily driver.
Last week I went to turn it on, and noticed the fuel gauge at 9 O'clock, temp at 180, and oil pressure at 60, before starting a cold engine. Found and changed a blown Gauge/Idle fuse, and it worked fine till yesterday, then the same thing. It must be blowing the fuse occasionally, when I turn off the ignition.
I'm sure I'll be pulling the gauge cluster to look for anything obvious, but am hoping to wait until I get my daily driver back from the body shop. Any ideas are welcome. Carrying extra fuses for now.



The 20A Gauge Idle fuse feeds the PNK/BLK 39 circuit. The bulk of the wiring is associated with the cluster (gauges, warning lights, etc.). There is a branch leg that is run out through the firewall and is used to provide power to various carb mounted controls (fast idle solenoid, speed switch, etc.) - if they were used.

I would suggest pulling the cluster and starting the hunt for your short there.
 
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WFO

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Thank you, chengny. I'm going to check the leg through the firewall, too. None of that stuff is being used, and I might just luck out and find a smashed or burnt loose wire or something.
 

chengny

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Thank you, chengny. I'm going to check the leg through the firewall, too. None of that stuff is being used, and I might just luck out and find a smashed or burnt loose wire or something.

Here are cropped and traced dwgs of the ignition & emissions circuit - as applies to an LT8 engine (with manual transmission) and a HD emissions/exhaust package. It is from the 1988 manual but is identical to your 1986. Don't say I never gave you nothin'.

Ignition:

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Emissions:

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chengny

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Simplified version of the emissions system:


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WFO

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Much obliged!
I saved those drawings, and will see what I can do with them. Most of that stuff is long gone, but a lot of the wiring is still there.
 

chengny

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Much obliged!
I saved those drawings, and will see what I can do with them. Most of that stuff is long gone, but a lot of the wiring is still there.


Yeah, your plan to eliminate everything in the engine compartment - before tearing the dash apart - was much better than my way.

If I may offer a suggestion:

Since everything supplied by the PNK/BLK 39 circuit (that once existed on the engine side of the FW) is LFG, maybe consider just diking off the single PNK/BLK lead - where it exits the main bulkhead transit block. Here is it's location in the block:

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Then if that solves the overcurrent condition - and there is nothing left in the EC that requires that PNK/BLK 39...you're done!

I have had two trucks with the exact same emissions controls, the same exhaust (HD Fed package for the 8500+ classes) as you - and trust me, that entire system can be removed with no ill effects.

I do leave my A.I.R. pumps belted up, with the diverter valves electrically disabled, only the Very High Vacuum ports are still connected - to an unported manifold source - I let them run all the time. I firmly believe that the cool air they constantly pump into the exhaust manifolds is a major part of the reason that these exhaust systems are still perfect after 31 years. When I am done stripping it all away, I only have four leads connected to the engine (not counting the alternator wiring)- everything else goes :

1. The TAN for oil pressure indication

2. The DK GRN for coolant temp

3. The PNK/WHT & DK BLU that control the choke heater (and the CHOKE warning)

4. The C- & B+ to the distributor (tach pulse signal and power to the HEI coil primary)

The effect it like this - plenty of room and neat:

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The only thing you might probably want to continue to keep powered up is that Anti -Diesel Solenoid - or I suppose you could just shut the engine down in gear. I honestly have no clue what it does or what activates it.
 

WFO

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You sure have good timing. I was about to ask you about that bulkhead transit block, only I didn't know what to call it.

The A.I.R. pumps were missing when I got the truck. It still had the riser tubes off the manifolds to the plastic pieces(don't know what they're called), and the rubber hoses, and they were left open. I couldn't believe that exhaust, or even sound, wasn't coming out of them, but went ahead and plugged the hoses. Once I get my daily driver truck back, I'll probably pull all that off, and plug at the manifolds. Don't want to take a chance, and put myself afoot till then. I've already hit'em with Kroil, so maybe they'll break loose.

I had never heard of the Anti-Diesel Solenoid, until I looked at the drawings you posted. Where is it located?
 

chengny

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I had never heard of the Anti-Diesel Solenoid, until I looked at the drawings you posted. Where is it located?

Apparently it is mounted on the LH side of the carburetor and is designed to kick up the idle speed - but only when the truck has HD emissions and a 4 manual transmission

Campaign - Carburetor Anti-Dieseling Solenoid Connection





NUMBER: 86-E-11


Group: 6E-Emission Controls


DATE: June, 1987


SUBJECT: CARBURETOR ANTI-DIESELING SOLENOID CONNECTION


MODELS: 1985-1986 C/K 25 LIGHT DUTY MODEL TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH 5.7L GAS ENGINES (LT9), HEAVY DUTY FEDERAL EMISSIONS (H5D/NAS), AND 4 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION (M20)


General Motors has determined that the engine electrical harness pigtail was not connected to the anti-dieseling solenoid on the carburetor of Flint production 1985-1986 light duty C/K 25 models equipped with 5.7L gas engines and manual transmissions and heavy duty Federal emissions. Not connecting the engine harness to this solenoid results in a curb idle speed of 600 rpm rather than the specified 800 rpm curb idle. It is necessary to connect the existing engine electrical harness pigtail to the anti-dieseling solenoid to bring these vehicles into conformity.

VEHICLES INVOLVED Involved are all 1985-1986 light duty model C/K 25 trucks equipped with 5.7L gas engines (RPO LT9) with heavy duty Federal emissions (H5D/ NA5) and 4-speed manual transmissions (M20) within the following vehicle identification and manufacture date parameters:

Flint Plant 1985 From Through 1986


Line #1 FF710952 GF724660
1/1/85 4/24/86


Line #2 FF514844 GF523016
1/1/85 4/24/86


The specific vehicles involved in this campaign have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number Computer Listings. These listings are furnished to all involved dealers with the campaign bulletin.

DEALER CAMPAIGN RESPONSIBILITY Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this campaign at no charge to owners, regardless of mileage, age of vehicle, or ownership, from this time forward.

Whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign is taken into your new or used vehicle inventory, or it is in your dealership for service in the future, you should take the steps necessary to ensure the campaign correction has been made before reselling or releasing the vehicle. Owners of vehicles recently sold from your new vehicle inventory are to be contacted by the dealer and arrangements made to make the required correction according to instructions contained in this bulletin. If no owner's name and address were available to GMC Truck Division at the time of campaign initiation, the dealer will determine the owner's name and address from the dealership sales records. Please provide this information directly on the second copy of the listing next to the applicable VIN so that our records may be updated and the appropriate notification mailed to the owner. This second copy should then be submitted to the address listed below in the previously supplied yellow campaign envelopes.

GMC Truck Division General Motors Corporation 101 Union Street Plymouth, Michigan 48170


OWNER NOTIFICATION Owners will be notified of this campaign on their vehicles by GMC Truck Division (see copy of the Owner Letter included with this bulletin). A listing of owner names and addresses has been furnished to the involved dealers to enable dealers to follow up with owners involved in this campaign. This listing may contain owner names and addresses obtained from state motor vehicle registration records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a violation of law in several states. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of this listing to this campaign.

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SERVICE PROCEDURE Refer to Figure No. 1



1. Remove the air cleaner assembly.


2. Locate the carburetor solenoid.


3. Inspection:


^ If there is a single wire pigtail which is pink with a black stripe connected to the anti-dieseling solenoid no further action is required. Proceed to step 4.


^ If there is nothing connected to the antidieseling solenoid locate the pink with a black stripe pigtail which is part of the engine harness and connect it to the antidieseling solenoid. Proceed to step 4.


^ If there is a dark green electrical pigtail connected to the anti-dieseling solenoid unplug it and tape it back out of the way. Locate the pink with a black stripe pigtail which is part of the engine harness and connect it to the solenoid.


4. Reinstall air cleaner assembly.
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Here is a better view - in this dwg it's called a carburetor air fuel solenoid:



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And that's all I know about this component - I certainly wouldn't stress about it. They forgot to even hook the stupid thing up at the Flint plant for two years. If you read between the lines of the "Campaign Notice" (that's the worst kind of TSB) - some people got their asses kicked - and probably fired.
 

WFO

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I found it!
Got out there yesterday and started gathering and tying back all the unused loose wires under the hood, that the previous owner left laying on the intake when he swapped engines. Didn't see any that were burnt or nicked.
Found what looked like a brown wire running behind the #8 cylinder, but it felt attached to something when I pulled on it. Crawled underneath, and sure enough, the terminal at the end of it was melted to the back inside section of the exhaust manifold.
Broke it loose, and pulled it back up into the engine compartment, and then could see that it was pink/black, and hot with ignition on. It was probably for the Anti-Diesel solenoid, or maybe the Air Divert Solenoid.
I'll be cleaning this mess up better when I get my other truck back, and not depending on this one.
Thanks again for all your help, chengny!
 

wanderinthru

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I found it!
Got out there yesterday and started gathering and tying back all the unused loose wires under the hood, that the previous owner left laying on the intake when he swapped engines. Didn't see any that were burnt or nicked.
Found what looked like a brown wire running behind the #8 cylinder, but it felt attached to something when I pulled on it. Crawled underneath, and sure enough, the terminal at the end of it was melted to the back inside section of the exhaust manifold.
Broke it loose, and pulled it back up into the engine compartment, and then could see that it was pink/black, and hot with ignition on. It was probably for the Anti-Diesel solenoid, or maybe the Air Divert Solenoid.
I'll be cleaning this mess up better when I get my other truck back, and not depending on this one.
Thanks again for all your help, chengny!

Appreciate you and @chengny! Turns out my problem was the same, when the pink/black wire dissappeared behind the block it must have been burnt to something? Couldn't follow it any longer nor was able to pull it up. Knowing it wasn't needed, I just cut it. Problem solved, Thanks!!
 

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