Fender to tire clearance the same side to side?

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Kevin Foust

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Building a work truck and got the cab back on and threw the front end on just for grins. Wanted to see the tire clearance. Cab had basically everything replaced underneath. I'm going to run 38 1/2" Boggers and don't want any more lift. I'm cutting the fenders. My question is should the tire to fender gaps be the same side to side? It's a lot tighter on the drivers side. Sighting down the side the tires are the same sticking out. Cab corners are with 1/4" the same side to side and front to back. Haven't put the hood on but was just wondering from the experts.

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Grit dog

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Spring sagging?
Or not centered front to back?
Which do you mean?
On a side note, you’re going to butcher up the fenders so you can stuff too big of tire under not enough lift? On a nice truck like that? I’d at least get some crap fenders and save the good ones...

Is that a Power Wagon in the background? Sweet!
And what brand are those wire steeelies with the Boggers on them?
 

Keith Seymore

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If the cab is not straight on the frame the front end will shoot off in that direction. It's easy to do with such a short body; much less likely on a passenger car, Blazer or Suburban.

The true test is to put the front bumper on, which mounts directly to the frame, and see if the gap between the fender and the bumper is the same side to side.

K
 

Kevin Foust

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K30's
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400?
Spring sagging?
Or not centered front to back?
Which do you mean?
On a side note, you’re going to butcher up the fenders so you can stuff too big of tire under not enough lift? On a nice truck like that? I’d at least get some crap fenders and save the good ones...

Is that a Power Wagon in the background? Sweet!
And what brand are those wire steeelies with the Boggers on them?

Hadn't thought of a Spring sag but odd it would be on just one side. Something to look for. The Driver side fender is just closer to tire(meaning down more). There is a reason for as little lift as possible. I did make a 2 inch body lift and it is on. The truck will be a wood hauler. I'm making the complete bed up for it. I don't want to have it in the sky to lift pieces that high. I do need mud tires as duals or street type tires are useless. I have these tires as I just changed them out from the show truck. They have about 1/3 - 1/2 tread left as I put about 14,000 miles on them. The truck was no pristine gem when I started. Most would have scrapped the cab. I looks nice now for a reason. I started working on it in January and it will be a keeper. Wanted to hone my sheetmetal fab skills and this was a learning platform for future show builds. I had to basically remake the whole inner cowl as it was rusted through all the way across.

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The fenders are not original as this was "rebuilt" once before by previous owner. I got it in the fall last year so I don't know the history. It does have a salvage title. They have some rust holes and I wouldn't even care to buy new ones. Stuff for these trucks are cheap in comparison what I normally deal with.

The rims came from my previous employer. They bought a 1976 3/4 ton camper special(2wd) and they had 33's on it. Rims are 10 inches wide. I don't know whether they were factory or aftermarket. No name on them. Had a buddy powdercoat them for me.

The truck you see in the background is my show truck. It is what they based the Power wagon on. It's a 1941 Dodge Military Weapons Carrier. I put a 1978 Chevy 1 ton chassis under it. Original frames were pretty weak along with the axles. I have a Ram Jet in it know. Here is a video of it to give you an idea on the build.

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Kevin Foust

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400?
If the cab is not straight on the frame the front end will shoot off in that direction. It's easy to do with such a short body; much less likely on a passenger car, Blazer or Suburban.

The true test is to put the front bumper on, which mounts directly to the frame, and see if the gap between the fender and the bumper is the same side to side.

K
Good idea. I'll give that a shot when I get back on it.
 

Kim Burke

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Building a work truck and got the cab back on and threw the front end on just for grins. Wanted to see the tire clearance. Cab had basically everything replaced underneath. I'm going to run 38 1/2" Boggers and don't want any more lift. I'm cutting the fenders. My question is should the tire to fender gaps be the same side to side? It's a lot tighter on the drivers side. Sighting down the side the tires are the same sticking out. Cab corners are with 1/4" the same side to side and front to back. Haven't put the hood on but was just wondering from the experts.

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Oh My.... that WC in the background! Someone has a barge full of “Benjamin’s” in that beauty!
 

Kim Burke

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H
Oh My.... that WC in the background! Someone has a barge full of “Benjamin’s” in that beauty!

This was my show truck, Hahahaha.

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Grit dog

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Wow man, that Dodge is spectacular!
Thanks for sharing.
Guess the old Chevy looks better in pics...but great skill to get it back to that condition.
Good luck getting it fixed. Seems it can only be 2 things. Cab/ body mounts not straight or spring sagging. Some carful comparison measurements will likely root out the cause. good luck!
 

Kevin Foust

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1978 and 1980
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K30's
Engine Size
400?
Oh My.... that WC in the background! Someone has a barge full of “Benjamin’s” in that beauty!

More the time involved as i did all the work. No powdercoat on it, it is all paint I sprayed. You guys may like the frame. Only one crossmember was stock, the rest were modified or strengthened. All unused holes were welded shut and smoothed. Inside of frame looks like the outside. Did it over a 13 year timespan when I had time and over 3000 hrs of time.

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Just always loved building/making stuff and wanted to do one modified so this was it. Some will spend free time watching TV or doing a hobby. This is mine.
 

Kevin Foust

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kevin
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1978 and 1980
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K30's
Engine Size
400?
H


This was my show truck, Hahahaha.

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Another open cab with a conversion. Crazy how many different brand cabs people used to "get inside". LOL Don't blame them either!
 

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