Engine/Trans help

[Broken85]

This is the engine I bought. Same heads as both being discussed in this thread unless Im missing something.

GM Small Block Compatible 383 c.i. Engine - 436 Horsepower - Deluxe Dressed - Carbureted

BluePrint Engines 383 c.i. small block GM style stroker crate engine - Deluxe Dressed longblock with carburetor. Includes 30 month / 50,000 warranty & BPE Dyno Promise. Part #: BP38318CTC1D

blueprintengines.com

The ports and the bolt holes are moved up on the heads 1/2". This might cause an issue on something with tight fitting headers like an S10 or an F body but the bolt hole spacing is the same.

The spark plugs are moved in on the 2 center cylinders 1/4" each like the cast iron Vortec heads. I dont remember how tight the exhaust manifolds were in that area because I switched to headers before I swapped in the engine. Same headers fit both FWIW.

Cant comment on the water pump...mine was built during Covid and because of parts shortages it came with a cast iron pump.

Driver side was very tight especially with the 700R4 linkage which needed some bending to get it to clear. The top of the header also hitting the floor board on the driver side a little on acceleration and vibrated the whole cab so that took a micro adjustment with a 5lb sledge maul too.

 

[ThreeLRanch]

Driver side was very tight especially with the 700R4 linkage which needed some bending to get it to clear. The top of the header also hitting the floor board on the driver side a little on acceleration and vibrated the whole cab so that took a micro adjustment with a 5lb sledge maul too.

This is why I hate headers , they are just a pain in the ass 90% of the time .

 

[Rustisbest]

https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/what-headers-will-fit-a-blueprint-454-in-a-1987-k10-v10.41452/#post-955288

Post 8 he mentions he has manifolds on his SBC. Maybe @75gmck25 can tell you how much he needed to take off to make it work. Unless you dont want to fool with it which I can understand.

Found another thread.... and some others using ram horns

https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/blueprint-engine-exhaust-manifold-clearance-issue.552012/

 

[ThreeLRanch]

https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/what-headers-will-fit-a-blueprint-454-in-a-1987-k10-v10.41452/#post-955288

Post 8 he mentions he has manifolds on his SBC. Maybe @75gmck25 can tell you how much he needed to take off to make it work. Unless you dont want to fool with it which I can understand.

Found another thread.... and some others using ram horns

https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/blueprint-engine-exhaust-manifold-clearance-issue.552012/

Thanks
I am about to the point to where I will just drive it the way it is for now until this engine lets go and then figure it out . I guess I am just getting frustrated with crap being so high and people wanting to charge so dang much to build an engine . I just am wondering now if I got the transmission rebuilt if that might not help some because I feel like the engine runs smooth and is really responsive when revving it up in park. It is just when you go WOT in doesn't move near what I feel it should . I know with the 193 heads it isn't going to be a rocket ship but feel it still should move out ok till it hits that 4grand mark.

 

[Ricko1966]

Thanks
I am about to the point to where I will just drive it the way it is for now until this engine lets go and then figure it out . I guess I am just getting frustrated with crap being so high and people wanting to charge so dang much to build an engine . I just am wondering now if I got the transmission rebuilt if that might not help some because I feel like the engine runs smooth and is really responsive when revving it up in park. It is just when you go WOT in doesn't move near what I feel it should . I know with the 193 heads it isn't going to be a rocket ship but feel it still should move out ok till it hits that 4grand mark.

Engines are lots cheaper to rebuild when they still run 1/2 way decent. Sometimes not rebuildable when they let go. And also depends on what your needs are.How many miles on your engine? And how many more miles you plan on putting on it? Lots of times I've gotten by with a hone,new rings,new bearings,and a valve job with no concern knowing I'd get another 60 or 70 k on it. Upgrade the heads and cam you can make it considerably better than it was. Try to find an article titled junkyard jewel,it's a build just like I'm talking. Or score a pick n pull 350 vortec and do a rings,bearings,cam and a valve job build on it. I can see that being an easy,cheap 350hp build. Found it for you

Trying to Reach New Heights With a Junkyard 350 Small-Block Chevy Engine

Part 2: Continuing the quest to build a 300-hp small-block for $500 after initial dyno pulls showed that it was underpowered and over budget. From the August 1999 issue of HOT ROD magazine.

www.hotrod.com

 

[Broken85]

Thanks
I am about to the point to where I will just drive it the way it is for now until this engine lets go and then figure it out . I guess I am just getting frustrated with crap being so high and people wanting to charge so dang much to build an engine . I just am wondering now if I got the transmission rebuilt if that might not help some because I feel like the engine runs smooth and is really responsive when revving it up in park. It is just when you go WOT in doesn't move near what I feel it should . I know with the 193 heads it isn't going to be a rocket ship but feel it still should move out ok till it hits that 4grand mark.

This is the problem ☝. Blue Print (and others) sell this as “Turn-Key”. Their turn key model didn’t start when I turned the key. It took another $3K in unexpected parts and another 100 hours in wiring, plumbing, and fabricating to get the key to actually turn the motor over. I thought I had everything accounted for before I started and it was still another 30%. I actually took a week of vacation naively expecting to just bang out an engine swap which I have done a dozen times. It was actually 4 more months before the key “turned over” and it pull out of the garage.

Compounded by the fact that Blue print sent my Motor to the west coast instead of the east coast (common mistake in sure) by accident costing me 3.5 extra weeks,
And when it did arrive they delivered it to some random guys house a mile away, because close is good enough. Lucky I found it. The power steering pump started to leak the instant I filled it up with zero running hours.

 

[wendortb]

I had a 305 with holes in a couple pistons and froze up, so not worth rebuilding. I was also restoring frame off, so I was replacing most of the stuff mentioned above anyway, so not as big of a deal at the time. Exhaust was gone, coolant was contaminated ... so it made sense to get blueprint since I was replacing a lot of it anyway.
If I had a running truck, I would try tuning it up, or do the backyard rebuild like Ricko said. You can get cheap decent headers on Amazon.

 

[ThreeLRanch]

I actually found a builder that has a decent price and seems like he’s a pretty nice guy so for the price and the build specs it seems like a pretty good deal so in the next few weeks I’m going to get one of his builds.the only problem is which one to get again thinking of the transmission which I know is going to be the weak link then the rear end.

 

[ThreeLRanch]

I actually found a builder that has a decent price and seems like he’s a pretty nice guy so for the price and the build specs it seems like a pretty good deal so in the next few weeks I’m going to get one of his builds.the only problem is which one to get again thinking of the transmission which I know is going to be the weak link then the rear end.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I actually found a builder that has a decent price and seems like he’s a pretty nice guy so for the price and the build specs it seems like a pretty good deal so in the next few weeks I’m going to get one of his builds.the only problem is which one to get again thinking of the transmission which I know is going to be the weak link then the rear end.

Get the one with good low end and mid-range(torque). Stop thinking high hp unless you're going to race it. Torque is what you need in a truck.

 

[xm20k]

Get the one with good low end and mid-range(torque). Stop thinking high hp unless you're going to race it. Torque is what you need in a truck.

Agreed if you're still going to do truck stuff with it or drive it a lot you can make 300-350 with mostly stock parts and be a daily driver without getting into a lot of other stuff much more and then you're going to hate the time and added expense of a torque converter, trans rebuild, fuel costs etc.

I know that goes against what I've done with my truck, but a second daily driver is planned as well.

 

[Shoote]

I have 1,000 miles on a BP motor. The mechanical fan has three inches of extension to get the blades inside the fan shroud. No issues so far with the water pump. BP does not make their own water pumps so I do not understand how the extension could cause an issue. I purchased Summitt brand headers that fit very well with the BP motor. Vehicle is a 1987 V10 with a 700r4 and a BP 454.

 

[xm20k]

I think someone at BP is pulling crap out of their backside to use as an excuse to deny warranty claims maybe, a lot of people run spacers on aluminum water pumps, mine has a 3 inch spacer because of the short style pump even if it was a long pump, it would still need a spacer.

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Not a BP engine BTW

 

[75gmck25]

I have a GM crate 350 and I added Blueprint heads, so no other parts from Blueprint. I was able to fit stock iron manifolds the first time around, but had to do some grinding around #7 plug, and use ceramic boots to protect the wires.

I then switched to Sanderson CC17 headers, which bolted in very easily. However, they came with angled collector adapters and the angles did not work well. Spent time cutting and fitting the adapters, and then MiG welded the pieces together. Passenger side is easy to fit, but on the drivers side you have to fit the flange and down pipe between the engine/trans flange and the shifter linkage. My shifter linkage lightly touches the collector in Park, but has space when it’s in gear.

One other issue with any shorty collector is that it’s back near the firewall, and hard to reach when working on a high truck. When tightening the collector flange bolts you have to hold the bolt and turn the nut (like usual), but need to be on top to hold one side and under the truck to reach the other side. Easy for two folks working, but hard for a single person.

 

[ThreeLRanch]

Agreed if you're still going to do truck stuff with it or drive it a lot you can make 300-350 with mostly stock parts and be a daily driver without getting into a lot of other stuff much more and then you're going to hate the time and added expense of a torque converter, trans rebuild, fuel costs etc.

I know that goes against what I've done with my truck, but a second daily driver is planned as well.

It is not a daily just a weekend truck or to some shows maybe here and there . I am not looking to do a lot more to the truck really other then the engine and transmission. This is the one I found and southwest classic in Arlington sells them for him and said that they haven't had any issues they are a wear of . I talked to him on the phone and he seemed like a pretty knowledgeable guy .

Vortec 350/350 hp

www.gordonsengines.com