E-brake sticking after rebuild

[fast 99]

Put truck in park and key back to off. Rear tries spin, wait WTF!
With truck NOT running I humbly ask why rear tires would move while in park or drive?!

Because it doesn't have a posi rear end. Driveshaft can be stationary wheels will turn apposite direction from each other because of momentum and component weight.

Hope my explanation is clear enough.

 

[edgephoto]

Are you saying the wheels are off the ground, truck in park and you can spin one wheel and the other rotates in the opposite direction?

If so, that is normal. It is your diff. working.

 

[Sgt Gus]

TY!

 

[Sgt Gus]

Gonna be left rear...haven't touched e-brake, but after running around testing engine (and monitoring temp) stopped infront of house. When put back into gear no move (unless throttle, Lol). Put Jack under each back side 1st and left rear no moved.

 

[ali_c20]

Gonna be left rear...haven't touched e-brake, but after running around testing engine (and monitoring temp) stopped infront of house. When put back into gear no move (unless throttle, Lol). Put Jack under each back side 1st and left rear no moved.

Unhook the e-brake cable, adjust the brake and test drive it.
Are there grooves in the backing plate where one of the shoes could get caught?
I had this problem on my wife's 66 Impala that the new brake shoes where way thinner (pad material 50% thickness) and got stuck in the grooves the old brake shoes made in the backing plate.

 

[Sgt Gus]

Unhook the e-brake cable, adjust the brake and test drive it.
Are there grooves in the backing plate where one of the shoes could get caught?
I had this problem on my wife's 66 Impala that the new brake shoes where way thinner (pad material 50% thickness) and got stuck in the grooves the old brake shoes made in the backing plate.

No grooves in backingplate iirc, will ck everything. Pads were in good shape because rears weren't being used before I rebuilt. I think I got the two hold down springs backwards. All I can think of. Pad(s) sticking after we use brakes sometimes, and not actually touching e-brake pedal...just using brakes and the left rear hangs up sometimes...

 

[Sgt Gus]

Okay, saga continued: proportioning valve.
***** a process of elimination, even when its been replaced, new.
Jacked the back end up and put on stands. Got them both to lock up when running, and as soon as I (yes) put into gear. Put into neutral and they are locked up. Engine turned off and in neutral still locked up and hear a pop, click whatever at front of truck tapping brakes. Proportioning valve releases, rear all good. Duplicated again with my daughter at the helm.
So, new valve was off the jungle, shinny and new. Had also installed new booster and master cylinder. What? Simply replace proportioning valve again? Any suggestions from experience appreciated.

 

[Sgt Gus]

Decided to bleed rear brakes some more. Tested good, didn't lock up and then took for a test drive.
Fluid looked darker and dirty from bleeding. I ran denatured alcohol through the lines and blew out with air hose when I rebuilt. Maybe from getting super hot? I Dunno.

 

[ali_c20]

Brake fluid can get darker when it overheats. It's a good solvent and had some time to sit in the components to get dirty.
Now everything works as it should?

 

[Sgt Gus]

Brake fluid can get darker when it overheats. It's a good solvent and had some time to sit in the components to get dirty.
Now everything works as it should?

Yes sir. That's what I was thinking and hoped. Got a little air out, so hoping that was affecting proportioning or combination valve.