Door adjustment

[robert8096]

The cab is solid but not that solid, it can be flexed. The front fenders do bolt up solid to the cab, but have large holes to allow adjustment. It can be a real chase your tail thing getting all of gaps looking right. I run up all the bolts finger tight and move it around as needed.

I have had a few cabs off the frame with the doors on and have had no problem with opening/closing the doors. If you are flexing a cab so much that you are binding the doors in the cab frame by changing the rear body mounts you have a serious problem. If the door is hitting the front fender I would adjust the fender, not move the door. Then again I would change all the body mounts at one time.

You adjust the doors to the cab then the fenders to the door

I agree doors to cab, fenders to door and then square the hood opening by moving the core support left/right. Adjusting the door to compensate for worn hinge pins and bushings is just a temp fix. Your up/down movement of your door is because the bushings in the hinge are worn and the pin is moving around in the hinge.

 

[bucket]

I have had a few cabs off the frame with the doors on and have had no problem with opening/closing the doors. If you are flexing a cab so much that you are binding the doors in the cab frame by changing the rear body mounts you have a serious problem. If the door is hitting the front fender I would adjust the fender, not move the door. Then again I would change all the body mounts at one time.



I agree doors to cab, fenders to door and then square the hood opening by moving the core support left/right. Adjusting the door to compensate for worn hinge pins and bushings is just a temp fix. Your up/down movement of your door is because the bushings in the hinge are worn and the pin is moving around in the hinge.

But slightly worn bushings will stay just slightly worn if lubed on a regular basis (like they should be anyway). I've milked worn bushings for years on some of my beater rides and only one ever got worse.