CS130 Alt Wiring on 85 c10

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nvrenuf

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I think y’all are confusing “volts” with “amps”.
 

SquareRoot

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This thread has a lot of misinformation in it. Auragirl is bouncing all over the place and causing confusion. I'm not an expert but I've been wiring stereo systems and hotrods for more decades than I'd like to admit.

I have an 85k20 that I have recently rewired from scratch to accommodate EFI, Dakota Digital gauges, light bars, serious stereo, etc. I also have a new crate vortec 350, serpentine system and a CS130 alternator. The truck operates perfectly like a new modern vehicle.

I'm pretty sure I can help you out. Feel free to direct message me. Mike
 

AuroraGirl

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Apologies. That was unintentional and it comes from a long line of other defects that are causing issues elsewhere.
 

SquareRoot

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Apologies. That was unintentional and it comes from a long line of other defects that are causing issues elsewhere.
Lol. Been wondering where you been.
 

Bextreme04

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Ok so i appreciate the feedback and was hoping you can elaborate, dc electrical is not my strong suit, i only thought by getting the 220 size altenator i would not have to worry about any light dimming or insufficient power if im running light bars winch stereo or all accessories at the same time, so i guess im a little worried now....also i have a 0 gauge wire from battery to starter positive side of battery, and did have 8 gauge wire from altenator battery post + to the battery post positive but have since removed from battery and connected to starter battery post +, not sure which way is best because of so many contradictions........this is a reman 220 cs130 altenator, hi torque starter, average size battery, all new harness from aaw ( will never purchase from them again ) and new blueprint 383 motor and serpentine belt system....i know some of that does not matter but was trying to paint a picture...thank you for any advice on how it should be wired correctly and please be thorough and specific as i am seriously overwhelmed with the whole wiring harness that i wasted $950 for....imho a fricking joke of a kit for the price.....ill stop there in my opinions of the wire kit.. thank you aurora girl..also can you explain your comment on how i could fry something by using a higher amp altenator .....thank you
Yes you need the resistor if you connect that wire. That wire is a ground when the alternator is not producing power. It runs to an ignition power source in the truck. If Normally that would have a light in between, so when ignition power is on, but the alternator is not producing power, the light gets powered by the ignition circuit and ground through the alternator. As soon as the alternator starts producing power, you now have power on both sides of the light and therefore no flow of electricity and the light would be off. If you don't have a light, you need to have the resistor in there to act as a load, otherwise it's basically a short to ground every single time you turn the ignition switch on without the engine running, and it's back-feeding unregulated power in to the fuse panel when running.

You have a 220 Amp, 12 Volt, cs130 alternator. Voltage and amperage are not the same thing.
 

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