The wiring is easy - there are just 2 terminal stabs. One for the hot lead and one ground lead. If you didn't get the pigtail with the clock just use female spade connectors.
The terminal stabs on the back of the clock are layed out in the shape of a "T". When the clock is mounted in the instrument panel, the "T" is indexed at about a 45 degree angle (CCW looking at the back of the clock).
The reason I mention all that is because, the polarity of the wiring must be correct or the clock will either fry or not function.
The black lead - the one that goes to ground - connects to the stab that forms the top of the "T".
The hot wire (from the fuse block or wherever) clips on to the vertical (well, kind of vertical - it's actually at a 45 degree angle) stab.
Power for the hot wire can be tapped into one of the BAT jacks on the relay block. There are 2 BAT sockets way down at the bottom. If you don't have the special connector that plugs into the BAT socket, just splice the hot wire into any convenient battery (i.e. always hot) source.
Run the negative lead over to the common grounding bus. It is located on the side firewall above the e-brake assembly.