Choke fuse question, 30amp or 20?

[jtclarke]

I apologize if this is the wrong place to post this, I just joined a few days ago. I just bought a ‘86 K2500 and it decided to blow the choke fuse. I have replaced many fuses and this isn’t my first square body but I am not familiar with this fuse layout. I pulled a 30amp fuse out of the slot but I noticed that the fuse slot says 20amp below the slot and 30 amp to the left side? I am just not sure if I need to replace it with a 30 or 20 amp fuse. It does have an Edelbrock carb so I’m not sure if that is why there was a 30 amp fuse? I’ll attach a photo to show what I mean. Any help would be appreciated!

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[Sad Sack]

MAYBE: Believe the 30A is for the PWR WDO (which has a 20A installed) and stick with 20A for the choke.

 

[jtclarke]

MAYBE: Believe the 30A is for the PWR WDO and stick with 20A for the choke.

that’s where I am confused, there is 2 labels for the one slot, should there be another fuse slot for the choke below it? There’s just no fuse terminals in the one below or to the left side.

 

[jtclarke]

Actually I think the fuses may have been swapped, it looks like the label to the PWR WDO should be talking about the slot with the 20 amp above it, or am I misreading the labels?

 

[Sad Sack]

that’s where I am confused, there is 2 labels for the one slot, should there be another fuse slot for the choke below it? There’s just no fuse terminals in the one below or to the left side.

Think it was a "space issue" for the labeling, move the 20A down and replace the 20A you took out with a 30A. Others will chime in hopefully.

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[Sad Sack]

You'll also notice you have a 30A installed for the T/L CTSY and should be a 20A, you also have incorrect fuse in the Stop HZ location, should be a 15A.

 

[jtclarke]

Think it was a "space issue" for the labeling, move the 20A down and replace the 20A you took out with a 30A. Others will chime in hopefully.

You must be registered for see images attach

That’s what I was thinking, it makes me a little concerned that the 20amp slot for the choke blew a 30amp fuse.

 

[jtclarke]

You'll also notice you have a 30A installed for the T/L CTSY and should be a 20A, you also have incorrect fuse in the Stop HZ location, should be a 15A.

Yeah I was just looking at that. I took the picture last night before I had a chance to really look at it as I had to take my family out. Looks like I’ll need to adjust a few of those fuses. Don’t know what the previous owner was doing, probably just replaced them with whatever he had.

 

[Sad Sack]

That’s what I was thinking, it makes me a little concerned that the 20amp slot for the choke blew a 30amp fuse.

Electrical gremlins are not nice. Never go over a rated amperage.

 

[jtclarke]

Electrical gremlins are not nice. Never go over a rated amperage.

I’ll definitely get these all corrected before I take it out again. Hopefully this fixes the choke light as well, that’s what caused me to start looking at the fuses.

 

[Turbo4whl]

That’s what I was thinking, it makes me a little concerned that the 20amp slot for the choke blew a 30amp fuse.

So this is telling you have a short issue with the choke circuit. Besides the choke coil it's self, there could be a short at the choke oil pressure switch. After 40 years it could have an intermittent short.

Also: PWR WDO = power windows, 30 AMP

 

[Jgonick]

FYI-
PWR WDO & PWR ACC are usually 30 Amp CB (Circuit Breaker) - You can use a fuse, but originally they were CB.

 

[Jgonick]

I'll throw this up here also since the choke fuse is blowing-
like @Turbo4whl mentioned- the choke circuit. (oil pressure switch, choke coil heater, etc)
Start by checking the pink/white wire running to the oil pressure switch.

See attachment.

 

[jtclarke]

I apologize for taking a few weeks to respond, I haven’t had a lot of time to work on it. I checked the wiring to the sending unit and it looks good, however while trying to figure out what’s going on I was testing the sending unit and noticed that the oil gauge is not maxed out on either side and seems to be working correctly even with the blown fuse which is not making a lot of sense to me. does that mean that the sending unit is good or what could be the issue?

 

[Ricko1966]

I apologize for taking a few weeks to respond, I haven’t had a lot of time to work on it. I checked the wiring to the sending unit and it looks good, however while trying to figure out what’s going on I was testing the sending unit and noticed that the oil gauge is not maxed out on either side and seems to be working correctly even with the blown fuse which is not making a lot of sense to me. does that mean that the sending unit is good or what could be the issue?

Do you have 2 oil pressure switches or 1 most use 2 different switches 1 for choke 1 for gauge/light. They can be behind the distributor or above the oil filter,check both location make sure there isn't 2 switches. How quickly does the choke fuse blow if it's almost instant you have a short to ground,easy to find. If it's slow I'd suspect a bad choke coil. Short to ground pull the wire off the choke check resistance to ground,zero or close change the choke coil. Okay if that wasn't it probe the wire you took off to ground is it open? If not disconnect at the pressure switch is it open now? If yes check both op switch leads to ground,both open, the wire from the switch to power has a short. 1 or both oil pressure leads zero resistance to ground,the switch has shorted. If you only have 1 switch post back testing will be confusing using the diresctions I gave you because there are 2 circuits in the switch if you're checking the gauge circuit this test will be inaccurate.