86stepside
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no problem yes choke works fine its a divorce choke
carburators
- Thread starter 86stepside
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gpmorgan
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I think I would try upping the pressure to about 8 psi and see if it helps any. It's kind of strange that both carbs do the same thing. Think I would also check for vacuum leaks.
86stepside
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idles fine choke works great just when in gear problem start normal driving is good untill rpms get to 4500
86stepside
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checked all vacuum lines checked all around carb didnt find any leaks sorry for being slow new to this
86stepside
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well im off to get ready for turkey day
gpmorgan
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Here is a little write up on a bogging issue. It explains a condition that might be your problem. It's a good read either way.
http://ericpetersautos.com/2012/10/22/adjusting-a-quadrajets-secondaries/
http://ericpetersautos.com/2012/10/22/adjusting-a-quadrajets-secondaries/
gpmorgan
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Have a good Thanksgiving! Don't eat to much.
MrMarty51
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Be sure that the ground wire from the engine to the body wire is hooked up too and a good ground from body to frame and frame to battery.
A bad ground can cause these symptoms toooo.
A bad ground can cause these symptoms toooo.
chengny
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Off idle stumble and misfire at WOT (or near WOT - like 3/4 throttle) that is not attributable to a fuel/air issue is often caused by erratic timing advance.
Check your distributor for sticking weights, weak or broken springs and worn pivot points (either the pins or their locating holes).
Remember, the vacuum advance is in control of your timing when the throttle is closed (or nearly closed - like feathering it out) and it gradually gives up that control to the mechanical advance as the throttle opens toward WOT.
A sticking mechanical advance system won't advance the spark quickly enough when called upon. It might catch up eventually. Or, as you have noticed, if you let off the gas - the vacuum advance will take back control and power immediately returns.
The vacuum advance system is primarily there to increase fuel economy. The mechanical advance is there to advance the timing as quickly as possible - to crank the engine up when you need it.
Not saying this is going to be your answer (esp with a 6 month old distributor) but it might be worth checking out.
4500 RPM - Dude! Unless you have modified your intake (and exhaust) a 350 can barely breathe that fast.
Check your distributor for sticking weights, weak or broken springs and worn pivot points (either the pins or their locating holes).
Remember, the vacuum advance is in control of your timing when the throttle is closed (or nearly closed - like feathering it out) and it gradually gives up that control to the mechanical advance as the throttle opens toward WOT.
A sticking mechanical advance system won't advance the spark quickly enough when called upon. It might catch up eventually. Or, as you have noticed, if you let off the gas - the vacuum advance will take back control and power immediately returns.
The vacuum advance system is primarily there to increase fuel economy. The mechanical advance is there to advance the timing as quickly as possible - to crank the engine up when you need it.
Not saying this is going to be your answer (esp with a 6 month old distributor) but it might be worth checking out.
4500 RPM - Dude! Unless you have modified your intake (and exhaust) a 350 can barely breathe that fast.
Last edited:
86stepside
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its a bb 414 now but yes distributor was bad passing gear cable was set too tight runs great now thanks for info
86stepside
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no the distributor was in motor when i got it took my distributor out my 350 that was in truck before the switch to bb it already had recurve kit it was only ran for 6 months in 350 but it fixed my problem once i got passing gear cable set right its the one with long slotted hook up but its adjustable
