C10 k10 2wheel drive to 4 wheel drive

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HotRodPC

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It really is lotso work. Most find it's easier to find a 4x4 frame and do that body swap. But then again, with the cost of scrap autos up so high these days, even to find a decent donor 4x4, you end up paying dearly for it. This is why I've even thought of keeping this 80 4x4 frame, but I don't have the space for it, and need the cash I can get out of it.
 

HotRodPC

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As you know, my vote is to find a good donor 4x4 frame, but I don't consider myself a fabricator, so that might be why I feel that way, so my opinion is likely a bit biased. Here is some info to help you make the decision yourself. Great info BTW.

I don't mind linking to Chucks pages here. He isn't our competitor and this guy has spent mega time putting all this info in one place.

Article, 2wd to 4wd is it worth it?
http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/2wdto4wd.html

This guy was off to a good start at what all is involved, but never finished. Nonetheless, it is good for you to look over what is here and help decide if you want to tackle it this way or not.

http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/robsK35.html
 

Chevtruck

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I have no problem busting out the frame rivets. I'm just woried about screwing up a hole and the axle being slightly crooked and it eating tires on me. But I think with the donor truck I can get the holes in the right place. Thanks for the help.
 

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IF you do indeed do this, start a tech write up thread with lots of pics and detail. Take your time doing it. You'll be a hero here for doing it. As you can see, that guy on Chucks pages petered out. I'd call him a ****, but you never know the situation. He could have died or had a bad injury, so I won't case judgement on him. But, it would be nice to see that build done right here. :waytogo:
 

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If you find a 4x4, you can make templates ( paper ones) using the holes in the frome adn drill them correctly in your frame. I have done it both ways, I find the 2wd to 4x4 swap easier, than the frame swap. But that just my opinion. I did the crew cab in 2days doing the frame swap, did my other crew in a day swapping in the axle.
 

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The 4x4 frame I was possibly going to use has a hole rusted through it. So I am down to using the 2 wheel drive frame. I hope to start working on the frame next week sometime, and I will probably post some pictures and write a little bit about putting the strait axle under the two wheel drive frame.
 

crazy4offroad

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Sorry to hear the K frame is bad but glad to hear you want to do a write up on the conversion of the C frame. I know it slows a project down but try to get some pics as you go. You dont really have to try to use 3 hands to get a pic of what you're doing, many times i would just hold a hammer close to whatever I was knocking the **** out of and snap a pic, just for illustration. Good luck, hope it goes smooth!
 

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If you really want 4x4, just keep your eyes and ears open. I see deals like this occasionally.

http://fayar.craigslist.org/pts/3077034891.html
For $300, and the mega mega labor you'd save, plus other parts to boot that you can sell in a quick sale and end up with a free frame and/or even some profit. You'd be way ahead of the game to find a smililar deal. This is probably $300 cuz it has the drivetrain cores and a title. I've seen them go for as low as $100 in rolling chassis only, axles & frame. You need to get a Wanted ad posted up here, so for those who keep their eyes open for everyone else know what you need. And come here often too helps.
 

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If you really want 4x4, just keep your eyes and ears open. I see deals like this occasionally.

http://fayar.craigslist.org/pts/3077034891.html
For $300, and the mega mega labor you'd save, plus other parts to boot that you can sell in a quick sale and end up with a free frame and/or even some profit. You'd be way ahead of the game to find a smililar deal. This is probably $300 cuz it has the drivetrain cores and a title. I've seen them go for as low as $100 in rolling chassis only, axles & frame. You need to get a Wanted ad posted up here, so for those who keep their eyes open for everyone else know what you need. And come here often too helps.

Wow that's a nice deal! If i'd seen a deal like that when I was building my truck I would have been real tempted to make mine a 4x4 short bed.
 

HotRodPC

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I forgot this one was shortbed, but it's the long beds you find much more often. What's hurting us now guys as far as parts, it the price of scrap. Everythng is going over the scales. People are now cleaning out pastures and scrapping everything in sight. I encourage everyone to scavange and rat hole all the parts they can reasonably make room for and keep the wives off your back. It won't be long and all we'll be able to get it Afternarket higher dollar but inferior parts.
 

HotRodPC

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And to add, about stocking all the square parts you can, I know I'll have plenty and be prepared for the Apocalypse. I've got plenty of guns too to protect them. Just need to stock up on ammo.
[yt]_vAeeUhloQA[/yt]
 

77jimmy

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HotrodPC how to you fix that wheel float that you talked about??????
 

HotRodPC

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HotrodPC how to you fix that wheel float that you talked about??????

Oh hell it was some work Dawg but I did get it finally. Just read page 8 and 9 of that thread and you'll get most of the logistics of what I did. It involved a donor truck, and robbing some frame parts, drilling, air hammering some big rivets and using hardened Grade 8 hardware to reattach the piece to my frame.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=925&page=8
 

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I just tore into the new cab I got and found some rust on the cab floor where moisture got trapped under the floor mat. Also the footwell has a couple holes rusted in it about the size of a pencil eraser. I am wondering what is the best way to take out the footwell. It is not welded flush with the side of the cab, so I can start to peel it off, but it has some spot welded spots that I am unsure how to break. The interior floor of the cab has more rust on it than the rest of the entire truck combined. Any help would be great.
 

BigAl285

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Where did you find the rust holes at? I had the holes in mine on the rear axle front leaf spring hangers. The cross memeber was cracked too. I cut it out, made 2 oval patches. Cut off the rivets, grinded rust away, welded in patches and rebolted hanging in. Took me about 4 hours to do this. Having square edges on welded in plates will make it easier for it to crack thats why I have oval patches. Just an Idea for you. I'm getting a newer frame for mine soon from a buddy. I'm getting mine set up for truck pulling. I see your from Wisconsin too, any interest in mine? If I was making the 2wd frame a 4wd I would find a common point or points on both frames to measure from. I'd take the axles out with leaf springs, hangers all attached still.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l587/bigal285/12.jpg

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l587/bigal285/19.jpg
 

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