Bring a hot battery and you can drive home.

[jake wells]

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/2103383107.html

 

[Swims350]

yea I'm sure you can, it had an engine knock and has been sitting, my money is on it throwing the rod out the side on startup if it's even free now and not locked up.

A hot battery lol, sure bring a "hot"/stolen battery and drive it home to the pokey lol.

 

[HotRodPC]

I'd pay $750 for a 3/4 ton 4x4 with some rust IF it ran. As swim said. Buy it, the rod will probably be thru the block/pan before you made it 10 miles home with it. Tow it now save the block, but usually rod knock means crank is trash and beyond being turned even at .030. Its a $400 truck tops. A good post for the ******** on Craigslist thread.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243&page=64

 

[crazy4offroad]

...usually rod knock means crank is trash and beyond being turned even at .030.

Doesnt matter to most parts stores if you just wanna swap it as a core charge for a .010" under crank.

That truck might be a good parts donor but it would have to be 10 minutes from me, and I'd still tow it. No sense in junking what may be a good block.

 

[HotRodPC]

Doesnt matter to most parts stores if you just wanna swap it as a core charge for a .010" under crank.

That truck might be a good parts donor but it would have to be 10 minutes from me, and I'd still tow it. No sense in junking what may be a good block.

You're right. ANd that's cuz they send the crank off to the crank rebuilder and they can weld up and turn down to match other journals. I wouldn't want one of those cranks, but that's the way it is when you buy a reman short block. You get what they build you, and why I just build my motors.

 

[Swims350]

I've had 2 of those cranks and one is still in dad's 84 c10 has been in the motor and going strong for over 10 years now. Built it back in 97.

 

[HotRodPC]

I've had 2 of those cranks and one is still in dad's 84 c10 has been in the motor and going strong for over 10 years now. Built it back in 97.

Are you saying you have cranks that have been welded back up and reground? Or you just have 2 of those cranks. Not saying they are bad cranks, just saying I prefer not to have cranks that were welded up and reground from a rod knock.

 

[Swims350]

I would agree, but unfortunatley, no clue as to what ours had done. They are reman'd cranks from advance though both of them, one went down the road in the 86 dad traded, the other is in his 84 now. I know the one he has now is a .010 crank and rods. I would agree though scary thinking of a welded up and reground deal. Both had to be replaced though, the one in the 84 now the original crank(74 350 4 bolt from a c20) had a different size on everything, 20 here 10 there 30 here 40 there. he said it'd have to be at least .040 everywhere. No way did we want that lol. he said he wasn't even sure if 40 would do it.

I can't complain too much though, reman crank and bearings, was $100 then and the last was about $150.

 

[HotRodPC]

I would agree, but unfortunatley, no clue as to what ours had done. They are reman'd cranks from advance though both of them, one went down the road in the 86 dad traded, the other is in his 84 now. I know the one he has now is a .010 crank and rods. I would agree though scary thinking of a welded up and reground deal. Both had to be replaced though, the one in the 84 now the original crank(74 350 4 bolt from a c20) had a different size on everything, 20 here 10 there 30 here 40 there. he said it'd have to be at least .040 everywhere. No way did we want that lol. he said he wasn't even sure if 40 would do it.

I can't complain too much though, reman crank and bearings, was $100 then and the last was about $150.

Yep,. you never know what your getting with a reman. It could have been good as brand new, and maybe not. Luck of the draw. And for stock motors, welded up cranks can be OK if done right. I just have a problem trusting other people and why I do all I can myself.