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@Ricko1966 @RustyPile You guys are getting awfully worked up for a guy who already solved his problem. He's got a Painless harness, did Painless build all their harnesses wrong?
If that's how they made it,then yes they are made wrong,read the article I posted,it's a safety issue. Manufacturers did it to save lives, headlights used to be fused in the 50's and they figured out it was dangerous. The way his is set up if he has any problem in the lighting circuit at 85mph he is driving in total darkness. Set up properly he'd still have lights. I have worked on European stuff that had 5 fuses for lights, 1 for tail and instruments, 1 for each high beam,1 for each low beam. That way a short in the instrument cluster or taillights doesn't leave you driving in darkness. A short in one head light,or marker light,doesn't leave you driving in darkness.Just for fun go out on a dark road tonight,when your going about 60 mph,turn off your lights,try to stop your car and get it off the road safely.
Why do I keep being dragged back into these senseless debates.. Rick pretty much covered the hazards of having the headlights controlled by a fuse..
Listen Dieslie212, none of this argument is of your doing.. It's obvious you bought that harness in good faith.. Now you have statements from two individuals who just happen to be experts in their field. Both have stated fuses have no place in the headlight circuit.
www.onallcylinders.com
Rick, you're wasting your time.. You can't see what's going on here???? Here, I'll help you.. Some people just like to argue.. And usually they're the ones that know the least about the subject being discussed..Factory wiring for Chevy truck like 1975-85 I've attached a pic,look at what the red wire does. Go look at a factory 73-86 Chevy pickup fuse box. No headlight fuse. I don't care how you wire it,it's your truck mine I'd want it wired like GM designed it which is as simple as just rerouting the 1 battery lead that is headlights only. Then the factory circuit breaker in the factory switch will do its job as intended. I put a link to a website that describes how the factory circuit is supposed to work,anyone who hasn't read it yet,probably should. It would clear up a lot of confusion. I just linked it again.
Understanding “Old School” Headlight Switches (And How to Clean or Repair Yours)
Confound it the befuddling nature of vintage headlight switches. In classic cars, you pull the knob straight out and you get parking lamps at the first detent, then, headlights with …
I think a lot of newer stuff is relying on DRLs and independently fused high beams as backup. As long as there's a redundant circuit so no one's driving in total darkness. I'd even be tempted to put a 20 amp circuit breaker where Painless is using a 30 amp fuse. There's a reason for dropping the amperage. Look on line even some of the cheaper universal headlamp switches come breaker protected,so the lights pulse instead of die in a short circuit situation
