Anything else needed for 241c rebuild?

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flyboy1100

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I wish i could find a good yard. They wouldn't let me keep most of it. Know idea Whatr other looks like inside.

I kept tailshaft, both chain gears, both shafts, and range fork

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flyboy1100

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Didn't need extra stuff, new case is flawless on inside, plastic fork pads aren't even broke. Pretty much no wear on the gears or splines. Needs a good cleaning though because speedo housing was open so there is dirt inside.

Chain has .001 maybe .002 between the links so i will probably just get that. I forgot to open oil pump housing, will look tomorrow but assuming it's good because the little fluid that was still in it is still nice and red and condition of the rest.

Only issue i see is the vent tube is loose, and the switch connector is broke

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Didn't need extra stuff, new case is flawless on inside, plastic fork pads aren't even broke. Pretty much no wear on the gears or splines. Needs a good cleaning though because speedo housing was open so there is dirt inside.

Chain has .001 maybe .002 between the links so i will probably just get that. I forgot to open oil pump housing, will look tomorrow but assuming it's good because the little fluid that was still in it is still nice and red and condition of the rest.

Only issue i see is the vent tube is loose, and the switch connector is broke

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Your not supposed to mess with the pump. Just replace if necessary.

Good deal with the new case!

I would change the bearings any way seeing as you already have them and then you know for sure!

The biggest thing guys do is put too much RTV on the mating surfaces and then it oozes out inside and falls down and gets sucked into the pump intake screen and then the case goes BANG from no oil. You just need enough to smear a film on the mating surfaces. Good indicator is that as much that oozes out the outside means there is that much oozing out inside the case.

Oh and make sure that the input bearing retainer(transmission side) is clocked properly for the oil feed to the bearing!
 

HotRodPC

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They appear round, but don't roll well. Should be a new one in my rebuild kit i think.

Ive been having a shop help me with pressing on carrier/pinion bearings for the rear end, i will ask them if they can get it. I don't have a puller that will fit behind it

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I'd say that is the type that you will destroy getting it out. Then the new one is pressed in.
 

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It sounds as if you're well on your way now with a different trans case core ehhh? :shrug:

Many times, that is the way to go. That is also how acquired alot of my spare parts. If I did a transmission and it had a couple of broken hard parts, by the time I bought those used hard parts at the trans supply house, it was just as easy to find a core in the paper, or pull a part type yard that was laying out loose. I remember 1 front wheel drive Chrysler transmission I built, it had a **** ton of broken hard parts. It was cheaper to call a salvage yard and ask for something that condition was unknown or needed rebuilt. Instead of $150 for working transable, they said $75 for one that had black fluid and they would not sell as a working unit. When I got there, I found another unit that a car had been dropped on and broke the bell housing. Asked, and the guy said, phhhffft, scrap metal, I'll take $30. SOLD !!! And the fluid in it was gorgeous. I ended up just transferring all the guts including clutches to OEM trans case and it worked like brand new. Then I had all those other hard parts left over for the next build.
 

flyboy1100

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Your not supposed to mess with the pump. Just replace if necessary.

Good deal with the new case!

I would change the bearings any way seeing as you already have them and then you know for sure!

The biggest thing guys do is put too much RTV on the mating surfaces and then it oozes out inside and falls down and gets sucked into the pump intake screen and then the case goes BANG from no oil. You just need enough to smear a film on the mating surfaces. Good indicator is that as much that oozes out the outside means there is that much oozing out inside the case.

Oh and make sure that the input bearing retainer(transmission side) is clocked properly for the oil feed to the bearing!

I got yamabond to seal it back up instead of rtv. If it works for motorcycles assemblies, it will work for this. Plus after tons of googling for what kind of rtv to use yamabond etc kept coming up.


What about the vent tube, is that supposed to be loose?

Input bearing retainer?

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Vent tube should be press fit and tight if I remember right.

Input bearing is the part that mates on to the out put shaft from the transmission. There is a lubrication port on the retainer that houses the seal in front of the input bearing(the part that is sealed up to the transmission) If you look carefully you will see that there is only one correct way to install that retainer so that the front input bearing is supplied with lubrication.

It is the cover with the seal and 4 bolts
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flyboy1100

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Thanks for the pic.

Need to clean the front case good to check that vent tube so see what i can do. If i can't find another tube i guess there is always jb weld even though it wouldn't be the right way to fix it.

I took my junk 3 jaw puller and modified it today. Should have done that yesterday, anyway the pilot came out with 4 whacks!
 

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flyboy1100

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Darn rebuild kit came with 2 input seals and 0 front output seals. Dangit!

If the new input pilot bearing has a built in cap do i reuse the original cap or just toss it? I assume it is unneeded

Which way should the vent face? Does it matter? I can't pull it out do i was just going to try and tap it tight
 

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Darn rebuild kit came with 2 input seals and 0 front output seals. Dangit!

If the new input pilot bearing has a built in cap do i reuse the original cap or just toss it? I assume it is unneeded

Which way should the vent face? Does it matter? I can't pull it out do i was just going to try and tap it tight

The vent should face the front of the vehicle. I have a rubber hose that runs up to the bell housing with a clamp to go behind one of the bell housing bolts and a debris filter on the end.

I used a QualityGear kit. It had every thing plus one extra input retaining seal.

Im not sure what you mean by input bearing pilot bearing or the built in cap ?

The Input gear that attaches to the transmission rides on a bearing. That bearing is held in place by the bearing retainer that houses the input gear seal. Actually I believe there is a snap ring that holds the bearing as well.
 

flyboy1100

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the bearing that goes inside the input shaft.

my original is a 2 piece, a cap and a needle bearing that had some sort of hard red sealant between the 2. the new on that came in my kit is a 1 piece unit.

and rockauto is shipping me the seal i am missing no charge to me. should be here friday.
 

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MadOgre

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were talking about 24 right ?

front out put shaft rear bearing ?

They should be the same height ? it doesn't matter if the design is different as long as it does the same thing. I would discard the old one and install the new one.

My kit came in a box all parts vacuum wrapped. Kinda suspect if they are piecing parts together to make a kit.

Just double checked my kit it does come with a one piece cap
 
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flyboy1100

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i don't see it on that breakdown? it goes inside the input gear(number 38). the main shaft rides on that bearing.

i'm pretty sure I just disgard the cap and it is an updated bearing over what was used in 1989. my kit was also all vacuum sealed.
 

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Ya exactly. I figured out what you were talking about after I posted that last one. That cap prevents transmission fluid/gear oil from entering the transfer case through the transmission out put shaft splined to the input gear. so im not sure if one is better or not. but if you already pulled out the old one I would put in the new one.

My kit only has the new style. So if you want a new bearing I guess you put in the new one.
 

flyboy1100

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I hope my switch from the 208 transfers over because this one was broken and i didn't know that otherwise i would have grabbed the other.

Just waiting for that front seal and my sonnex rear retainer and i will be ready to finish assembly.
 

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